Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere
Trastevere’s focal square is a prime people-watching spot. By day it’s full of mums with strollers, chatting locals and guidebook-toting...
Museo di Roma in Trastevere
Housed in a 17th-century Carmelite convent, this museum hosts excellent temporary photography exhibitions that are usually worth the...
Bar San Calisto
Those in the know head to the down-at-heel 'Sanca' for its basic, stuck-in-time atmosphere and cheap prices. It attracts everyone from...
An old-school Roman restaurant set in a 17th-century building, with seating out on the piazza, Paris (named for its founder, not the...
Lonely Planet review
Trastevere's glittering heart is the beautiful Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere , which features what is said to be the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. Begun in AD 337, a major overhaul in 1138 saw the addition of the Romanesque bell tower and glittering facade. The portico came later, added by Carlo Fontana in 1702.
Inside, the 12th-century mosaics star. In the apse, look out for Christ and his mother flanked by various saints and, on the far left, Pope Innocent II holding a model of the church. Beneath this are six mosaics by Pietro Cavallini illustrating the life of the Virgin (c 1291). The building itself incorporates 21 ancient Roman columns, some from the Terme di Caracalla, and its wooden ceiling dates from the 17th century.