Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf

The baby of the Samui–Pha-Ngan–Tao trio, Ko Tao may still be the smallest in size but in many other ways it's all grown up. The island is consistently gaining in popularity and going more upscale, but for now this jungle-topped cutie has the busy vibe of Samui mixed with the laid-back nature of Pha-Ngan.

But Tao also has its wild card, something the others don't: easy-to-get-to, diverse diving right off its shores. Cavort with sharks and rays in a playground of tangled neon coral, toast the day with sunset cocktails on a white beach, then get up and do it all over again.

But even though the island is synonymous with diving, there is much more to the place. Hikers and hermits can re-enact an episode from Lost in the dripping coastal jungles. And when you’re Robinson Crusoe-ed out, hit the pumpin’ bar scene that rages on until dawn.

The 40-something jagged jungle islands of Ang Thong Marine National Park stretch across the cerulean sea like a shattered emerald necklace – each piece a virgin realm featuring sheer limestone cliffs, hidden lagoons and perfect peach-coloured sands. These dream-inducing islets inspired Alex Garland’s cult classic novel The Beach.

February, March and April are the best months to visit this ethereal preserve of greens and blues; crashing monsoon waves mean that the park is almost always closed during November and December.

In the late 1970s, Ko Pha-Ngan was a pristine paradise that beckoned the intrepid. Its innocent days may be long gone, but don’t let that deter you: this gulf isle offers much more than the Full Moon parties that made it famous.

Choose quieter days in the lunar calendar, or the smaller but still-raucous half-moon party periods, and the island’s charms are brought to the fore. It’s easier to get a room, prices are more reasonable and far fewer people are on the island, meaning more solitude and tranquillity. Even Hat Rin – party central when the moon is round – is quiet and relaxing during other periods, and the beaches are kept clean.

The quietest months are April to June, when the island is in low gear – an ideal time to visit for low accommodation prices, fewer elbows per square kilometre and safer roads.

Whether you're sun-seeking, dozing in a hammock, feasting on world-class cuisine, beach partying or discovering wellness in an exclusive spa, Ko Samui has it covered.

No one knows exactly when or how these crazy parties started – most believe they started in 1988, with accounts of the first party ranging from an Australian backpacker's leaving bash to a group of hippies escaping Samui's 'electric parties'. Today, thousands of bodies converge monthly on the kerosene-soaked sands of Hat Rin (aka Sunrise Beach) for an epic dusk-till-dawn dance-a-thon.

Pretty and placid Ao Khanom, halfway between Surat Thani and Nakhon Si Thammarat, quietly sits along the blue gulf waters. Overlooked by tourists who flock to the jungle islands nearby, this pristine region, simply called Khanom, is a worthy choice for those seeking a serene beach setting unmarred by enterprising corporations. The waters are free of jet skis to protect the local pink dolphins, making the region quiet and undisturbed. Tours whisk visitors off to view the dolphins in their natural environment.

The beach area is long and comprises two beaches: the main, long Hat Nadan and the smaller and more remote Hat Nai Plao beyond. Beyond Hat Nai Plao is very quiet Hat Thong Yi at the end of the road, which is well worth a journey for its castaway feel. This area is also home to a variety of pristine geological features, including waterfalls and caves.