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Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf

The Lower Gulf features Thailand’s ultimate island trifecta: Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Tao. This family of spectacular islands lures millions of tourists every year with their powder-soft sands and emerald waters. Ko Samui is the oldest sibling who made it big, where high-class resorts operate with Swiss efficiency as uniformed butlers cater to every whim. Ko Pha-Ngan is the slacker middle child with a penchant for hammock-lazing and all-night parties. Meanwhile Ko Tao is the outdoorsy, fun-loving kid with plenty of spirit and energy – the island specialises in high-adrenalin activities, including world-class diving and snorkeling.

The mainland coast beyond the islands sees few foreign visitors, but is far more authentic Thailand. From the pink dolphins and waterfalls of Ao Khanom to the Thai Muslim flavors of beach-strolling Songkhla and the charm of Nakhon Si Thammarat, this region is stuffed with off-the-beaten-track wonders.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf.

  • See

    Ang Thong Marine National Park

    Known officially as Mu Ko Ang Thong Marine National Park, this series of jungle-covered islands – the inspiration for Alex Garland’s cult classic novel, The Beach – resemble a shattered emerald necklace decorating the azure waters of the Gulf. February to April are ideal months to visit, and the best way is on a guided tour (ask at your accommodation), which usually includes lunch, snorkelling equipment, hotel transfers and (fingers crossed) a knowledgeable guide. The park’s head office is on Ko Wua Talap, the largest island, where there is a visitor centre, basic bungalow accommodation, camping areas and access to first aid. It is the only island you can stay overnight. Bungalows house two to eight guests and start at 600B (booked online via the national park website). Campers are allowed to pitch a tent in designated zones, bring your own or rent a two-berth tent for 250B. Facilities are basic with no hot water and the electric generator is turned off at 11pm every night.

  • See

    Songkhla Old Town

    Wander through narrow historic streets where quaint old houses in the Sino-Portuguese style rub shoulders with traditional wooden Chinese buildings. Some of these old-world relics have been restored and are home to little boutique cafes and restaurants, and others remain in a glorious state of decay. Hidden in amongst them are Chinese temples, beautiful streets of art, and a village mosque where the waft of grilled meat fills the air as local Muslim street vendors sell halal satay skewers. Nang Ngam road is particularly picturesque.

  • See

    Na Muang Waterfall 1

    Spilling down from the island's highest points, this is the first of two waterfalls – close to each other – that are lovely in full spate, pouring frigid water into rock pools as they crash downhill towards the blue sea. The larger of the two, at 18m in height, this is the most famous waterfall on Samui. During the rainy season, the water cascades over ethereal purple rocks, to land in a superb, large pool for swimming at the base.

  • See

    Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan

    The most important wát in southern Thailand, stunning Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawihaan (simply known as Mahathat) boasts an imposing 77m white chedi (stupa) crowned by a gold spire piercing the sky. According to legend, Queen Hem Chala and Prince Thanakuman brought relics to Nakhon more than 1000 years ago, and built a small pagoda to house the precious icons. The temple has since grown into a huge site, and today crowds gather daily to purchase the popular Jatukham amulets. Within the courtyard beneath the towering chedi rise up scores of further grey chedi. Don’t miss the hall enclosing a splendid stairway – all red, green and gold – and the museums featuring antique statues from all eras and corners of Thailand including an 18th-century reclining Buddha. Frequently filled with visiting school kids who apply gold leaf to the temple statuary, the wát is a 10B sŏrng·tăa·ou (pickup minibus) ride from the town centre.

  • See

    National Museum

    If you want to really understand Nakhon, this is the place. A series of interconnected rooms housing stunning artefacts with detailed displays in Thai and English take you chronologically from the Stone Age through to the present era, and culturally from local birth rituals to funeral rites. Standout items include a beautiful, intricately patterned, prehistoric bronze Mahorethuek drum, and the 5th- to 6th-century stone figure of Vishnu found at nearby Ho Phra Narai, the oldest depiction discovered in Nakhon region. On your way out, look out for the amusing, award-winning coconut grater, where the blade protrudes tail-like from the anus of the naked male figure.

  • See

    Tomb of Sultan Sulaiman Shah

    The tomb of Songkhla's most famous sultan, revered by local Muslims and Buddhists, sits beneath the shade of two intertwining trees in a serene cemetery off the 408 highway. Sulaiman's father founded the Sultanate of Singora in 1605 (precursor to Songkhla), but it was Sulaiman that famously declared its independence and adopted the sultan title in 1641. His tomb, inside a white hut, also features an imagined picture of him. The tombs of his wife and son are also nearby. There is a small, blue sign in Thai on the 408, pointing to the cemetery. The tomb's caretaker will be found snoozing in his hammock (tip him around 20B for the visit).

  • See

    Hat Yai Municipal Park

    Located 7km northeast of Hat Yai, this huge, green oasis of hilly, landscaped gardens is home to several stunning temples, an observatory, southern Thailand's tallest Golden Buddha, a boating lake – complete with artificial waterfall – cafes and food stalls, and a network of cycling routes. Spending a day breathing in the fresh air, exploring the temples, riding the cable car and taking in the spectacular views is a great escape from the often stifling atmosphere of Hat Yai.

  • See

    Pra Cha Rat Floating Market

    Park up in impressive Wat Bang Mai Bai, and cross the river along the tiny bridge with an ornate green and gold archway to enter a network of pathways lined by shacks serving delicious local food in bamboo and banana leaf bowls, right in the heart of the steaming jungle. A few boats with goods pull up by the riverbank, but most offer boat rides up and down the waterway to glimpse local life and the surrounding mangrove forest. The market is 3.5km northwest of the city centre on the small river Bang Bai Mai, a northern tributary of the Tapee.

  • See

    Hat Than Sadet

    This lovely beach of leaning coconut trees has the royal seal of approval, literally. Behind the collection of shacks that line the sands and azure waters are large boulders (signposted) where three Thai kings, Rama V, VII and IX, carved their insignia, affirming their love for this dreamy cove at the mouth of Than Sadet. Consider walking the wooden bridge at the south end beyond the stilted shacks to Hat Thong Reng. The swimming is good at both beaches.