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Northern Montenegro

The mountainous north is the beefy brawn to the coast’s polished pulchritude. Peaking at 2534m, this is the roof of Montenegro, where profound massifs, otherworldly vistas and a picturesque smattering of old-school villages offer a literal and metaphorical breath of fresh air.

The region’s main drawcards are its three national parks. Durmitor is a dizzying combination of soaring peaks and the plunging depths of the Tara River Canyon, making for spectacular skiing in winter and rip-roaring rafting in summer. The remote treks and trails of Prokletije’s Accursed Mountains are more heaven than hell for serious alpinists, while the less hardcore can catch their breath in Biogradska Gora’s gentle lakes and timeless forests.

There’s not much in the way of infrastructure outside of Kolašin and Žabljak, but don’t let that stop you. Hire a car, steady your nerves, and let the twisty, turny, white-knuckle roads take you where they will.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northern Montenegro.

  • See

    Tara Canyon

    Slicing through the mountains at the northern edge of the national park, the Tara River forms a canyon that is 1300m deep at its peak (the Grand Canyon plummets a mere 200m deeper). The best views are from the water, and rafting along the river is one of the country's most popular tourist activities. If you’d rather admire the canyon from afar, head to the top of Mt Ćurevac (1625m) – although even this view is restricted by the canyon walls. The viewpoint isn't well signposted and can be difficult to find. From central Žabljak, take the road north and follow the signs marked 'Panoramic Road 2'. Leave this route at the fork to the right marked 'Tepca'. Eventually there are some small wooden signs pointing to Ćurevac or vidikovac (viewpoint). Stop at the grassy parking spot opposite the drink stall and clamber up the small track behind.

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    Black Lake

    Eighteen glittering glacial lakes known as gorske oči (mountain eyes) dot the Durmitor range. The spectacular Black Lake, a pleasant 3km walk from Žabljak, is the largest of them and the most visited part of the national park. The rounded mass of Međed (the Bear; 2287m) rears up behind it, casting an inky shadow into the pine-walled waters. An easy 3.6km walking track circles the lake.

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    Stećci Sites

    These mysterious carved stone tomb monuments – dating from between the 12th and 16th centuries – can be found across northern Montenegro and neighbouring Bosnia. There are two extremely significant stećci sites in Durmitor National Park (both were added to Unesco's World Heritage list in 2016): the Bare Žugića necropolis, with 300 stećci, and Grčko groblje (Greek graveyard), with 49. Many of the stones at both sites are intricately decorated. Though neither site is signposted or staffed, they're easy to visit if you've got wheels. Around 5km south from Žabljak, turn left towards Devil's Lake (Vražje Jezero) – a gorgeous swimmable lake with a deep green centre and a lighter ring of green surrounding it. Continue on and, when you see the sign to Novakovići village, Grčko groblje can be spotted on the hill to your left; Fish Lake (Riblije Jezero) is on the right. Continue along the road to the left and the Bare Žugića necropolis is to the left of the road, shortly after a monument topped by an Orthodox cross.

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    Tara Bridge

    The elegant spans of the 150m-high Tara Bridge were completed just as WWII was starting. At the time it was the largest concrete arched vehicular bridge in Europe. Its 365m length is carried on five sweeping arches, the largest of which is 116m wide. In May 1942, with large numbers of Italian and German troops stationed in Žabljak, the Partisan command gave the order to blow up the bridge. The honour went to one of its engineers, Lazar Jauković, who planted the bomb that destroyed his beautiful creation. Jauković was captured by the Italians and executed on the remains of his bridge. When it was rebuilt in 1946, Jauković’s bravery was acknowledged by a plaque that still stands by the bridge today.

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    Dobrilovina Monastery

    Near the eastern boundary of the national park, 28km from Mojkovac, this monastery has an idyllic setting in lush fields hemmed in by the mountains and the Tara River. If you knock at the accommodation wing, a black-robed nun will unlock the church, but only if she’s satisfied that you’re appropriately attired. The frescoes that remain inside the church, dedicated to St George (Sv Ðorđe), are faded but very beautiful. Don't be fooled by the tranquillity; this complex has been destroyed and rebuilt several times since it was founded (sometime before 1592, when it first appears in the written record).