Nowhere else in Sardinia is nature as overwhelming a force as it is in the wild, wild east, where the Supramonte’s imperious limestone mountains roll down to the Golfo di Orosei’s cliffs and startling aquamarine waters. Who knows where that winding country road might lead you? Perhaps to deep valleys concealing prehistoric caves and Bronze Age nuraghi, to the lonesome villages of the Barbagia steeped in bandit legends, or to forests where wild pigs snuffle amid centuries-old holm oaks. Neither time nor trend obsessed, this region is refreshingly authentic.
Outdoor action abounds: drop anchor along the coast in a string of pearly-white bays, multipitch climb upon cliffs thrusting up out of the sea, pedal mountain bikes along old mule trails, and hike atop peaks and through ravines only reachable on foot. True, the Costa Smeralda attracts more celebrities, but the real rock stars and rolling stones are right here.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Sardinia.