Nowhere else in Sardinia is nature such an overwhelming force as in the wild, wild east, where the Supramonte’s imperious limestone mountains roll down to the Golfo di Orosei’s cliffs and startling aquamarine waters. Who knows where that winding country road might lead you? Perhaps to deep valleys concealing prehistoric caves and Bronze Age nuraghi, to the lonesome villages of the Barbagia steeped in bandit legends, or to forests where wild pigs snuffle amid centuries-old holm oaks. Neither time nor trend obsessed, this region is refreshingly authentic.
Outdoor action is everywhere: along the coast where you can drop anchor in a string of pearly white bays, upon the cliffs where you can multi-pitch climb above the sea, on old mule trails best explored by mountain bike, and atop peaks and ravines only reachable on foot. True, the Costa Smeralda attracts more celebrities, but the real rock stars and rolling stones are right here.