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It's easy to fall for Bar Harbor. I first came through this waterfront town some years ago on a New England road trip with my canine companion (a chocolate brown poodle named Cosmic). The two of us were immediately drawn to Bar Harbor's walkable center, complete with a photogenic Village Green within strolling distance of old-school eateries, quaint made-in-Maine shops and one very famous ice cream parlor. Even better is what lies in Bar Harbor's backyard: Acadia National Park with its mountain hikes, wooded carriage roads and wave-battered shores holds many surprises – particularly when the tide goes out.
After that first trip, I was hooked. For the last decade, I haven’t been able to stay away from this place. Though there are plenty of summertime visitors, Bar Harbor loses none of its charm (hint: visit in May or September). Just a word of warning: a stay here can turn into a lifetime addiction. Here are the best ways to experience this quaint gateway town and the surrounding area.
Cycle Acadia's carriage roads
Best for biking in the forest
John D Rockefeller Jr, a lover of old-fashioned horse carriages, gifted Acadia with some 45 miles of crisscrossing carriage roads, which today are ideal for cycling. Made from crushed stone, the roads are free from cars and take you to some lovely spots in the park, including Eagle Lake and Jordan Pond. For a deeper dive, book a cycling tour. On a trip departing from Hull's Cove, you'll learn more about the park and the history of these idyllic thoroughfares while pedaling through the forest. Keep an eye out for horseback riders, hikers and other cyclists.
When to go: Go at 9am on a weekday, before the day trippers arrive.
Getting there: Start at Hull's Cove. Nearby, you'll find a handy rental place to rent bikes, Acadia Ebike Adventure.
Pair with: Cold drinks and popovers at Jordan Pond House.
Take a morning stroll around Jordan Pond
Best free thing
On clear days, the glassy waters of the 176-acre Jordan Pond reflect the image of Penobscot Mountain like a mirror. A stroll around the pond and its surrounding forests and flower meadows is one of Acadia's most popular and family-friendly activities. Come early in the morning or late in the day for the best chance to spot beavers and other wildlife. Follow the 3-mile self-guided nature trail around the pond before stopping for a cuppa at the Jordan Pond House.
When to go: Go at 8am or 7pm for fewer crowds and better wildlife-watching potential.
Getting there: Arrive by bicycle along the carriage roads or take the free Island Explorer bus from Hulls Cove. If arriving before the buses start (at 9am), there's a parking lot at Jordan Pond House.
Pair with: Tea and scones at Jordan Pond House.
Eat at Jordan Pond House
Best for alfresco refreshment
Afternoon tea at the lodge-like Jordan Pond House has been an Acadia tradition since the late 1800s. Steaming pots of Earl Grey come with hot popovers and strawberry jam – a satisfying if surprising way to bookend some time on the trail. The interior of the restaurant is rather uninspiring, so eat outside on the broad lawn overlooking the pond if you can. The Carriage Road Carry-out Counter is well-suited for cyclists and strollers. Get it to go and have a picnic on the grass.
When to go: Go at 11am (opening time) on a weekday before the lunchtime crowds arrive or 9am at the carry-out counter.
Getting there: Arrive by pedal power along the carriage roads or take the free Island Explorer bus from Hulls Cove.
Pair with: A stroll around Jordan Pond.
Start the day at Cafe This Way
Breakfast favorites
One of Bar Harbor's best loved breakfast spots, Cafe This Way serves up all the classics, from eggs with all the fixings to sourdough French toast with real maple syrup. Our favorite: fluffy pancakes bursting with Maine blueberries. The colorful cottage setting adds to the charm, and you can also grab a table on the back terrace.
When to go: Go as soon as you wake up or any time after 6:30am, which is when the cafe opens.
Getting there: It's a pleasant stroll down Mt Desert St, where you'll find the restaurant tucked behind the Village Green.
Pair with: A bike ride along the carriage roads.
Explore the Abbe Museum
Best thing to do on a rainy day
Step into the past at the Abbe Museum, a beautifully curated space containing thousands of cultural artifacts related to Maine's Native American heritage. You'll learn about the Wabanaki people, who inhabited Mount Desert Island for countless generations before the Europeans arrived. Pottery, tools, combs and fishing implements date are among the treasures, some up to 2000 years old. Contemporary pieces include finely wrought wood carvings, birch-bark containers and baskets.
When to go: Mornings or afternoons midweek are the quietest times to visit (it's closed Sundays) but it’s rarely all that busy.
Getting there: It's just a short walk from the Village Green in downtown Bar Harbor.
Pair with: A stroll around Bar Harbor (with a good umbrella if the weather isn't cooperating).
Take an afternoon stroll down Main Street
Small-town wanders
Most visitors to Bar Harbor are in a rush to get to the national park, but it's worth setting aside some time for shopping and cafe-hopping along Main St. Start off at the Acadia Country Store, a locally owned outfit stocked with T-shirts, mugs, tea towels, maple syrup and jams, along with crafts made in Maine. Next door, Sea Bags sells eye-catching, practically indestructible bags from repurposed sailcloth. Up the street, you can pick up new reading material by regional authors at Sherman's, the state’s oldest bookshop. Cap the day's wander with a sweet treat at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream, a Bar Harbor summertime institution (President Obama became a fan after his 2010 visit).
When to go: Go around midday and stop for snacks along the way.
Getting there: Park a few blocks west of Main St (along Cottage St or West St for instance) to avoid the sometimes heavy congestions; don't forget to pay for parking at self-pay kiosks.
Pair with: A lobster meal at Thurston's.
Have a lobster feast at Thurston's
Maine’s favorite crustacean
For the authentic lobster experience, leave the city streets behind and head to one of the island's casual dockside lobster pounds. Overlooking Bass Harbor in Bernard, Thurston's is a bulwark of culinary decadence (it first opened in the 1940s). Tie on a bib and crack into a steamy, butter-dripping lobster or a seafood-filled lobster roll. Apart from those tempting bottom dwellers, Thurston's whips up a rich haddock chowder, along with crab cakes and steamed clams, plus a first-rate blueberry spice cake for dessert.
When to go: Go around noon (opening time) on weekdays to beat the lunch rush.
Getting there: It's a scenic 18-mile (35-minute) drive to Thurston's or take the Island Explorer bus (take 7 to Southwest Harbor and transfer to the 11 to Bernard).
Pair with: A walk along the Wonderland Trail.
Go tide-pooling on the Wonderland Trail
Must-do with kids
People who grew up in Downeast Maine have fond memories of taking the Wonderland Trail as a kid. What starts out as a fairly humdrum path – a flat, fairly level old fire road – turns into something indeed wondrous when it reaches the coastline. When the tide is out, you can pick your way along the rocky shore, stopping to admire critters of all shapes and sizes amid the sparkling tide pools. The trail isn’t long (just 1.4 miles round trip), though it's worth taking your time and reconnecting with this serene nature spot in coastal Maine.
When to go: Plan to be there 1 hour and 30 minutes on either side of low tide.
Getting there: Take the route 7 Island Explorer bus, and ask the driver to let you off at the Wonderland trailhead; it's between Bass Harbor and Seawall campgrounds.
Pair with: A walk to Bar Island.
Stroll the seabed to Bar Island
The secret
The 157-acre Bar Island lies directly offshore and north of Bar Harbor, and you can make the 0.4-mile walk out at low tide. For a brief period on either side of low tide, a gravel bar is exposed, allowing you to experience unique views of the seabed. A trail (1-mile round trip) continues to the summit of the island, allowing great views. Don’t attempt without checking the tides first. Among many great apps that puts the knowledge at your fingertips is NOAA's Tide Alert.
When to go: Be there 1 hour and 30 minutes before or after low tide.
Getting there: Find the well-signed starting point to the island by walking to the north end of Bridge St.
Pair with: A meal at the Thirsty Whale.
Join locals at the Thirsty Whale
The surprise
Restaurants come and go in Bar Harbor, but the Thirsty Whale has withstood the test of time. It's also one of the rare places that draws as many locals as it does out-of-towners. The secret to its success: the convivial, wood-lined tavern serves up unfussy seafood classics that won't break the bank. Shrimp cocktail, New England clam chowder and fried haddock sandwiches are among the hits, and you can also stop by for after-dinner drinks (it stays open until 1am).
When to go: Avoid the dinner rush by visiting before 5pm or after 8pm.
Getting there: Stroll one block west of Main St to find this central spot on Cottage St.
Pair with: A stroll in downtown Bar Harbor.
Watch the sunrise from Cadillac Mountain
The non-negotiable
Don't leave the park without driving – or hiking – to the 1530ft summit of Cadillac Mountain. The views over Frenchman Bay are magnificent, and you'll earn bragging rights: the summit is often touted as one of the first spots in the continental USA to see the sunrise. Not an early riser? The sunset is likewise a good bet. Regardless of when you come, you'll need a vehicle reservation. You can also reach the summit on foot, though you'll need a headlamp and to pay careful attention to trail markers so you don't wander off the path. The best route up when coming from Bar Harbor is the North Ridge Trail, a 4.2-mile round-trip excursion that takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes each way.
When to go: Dawn, which happens before 5am in mid-June (good morning!).
Getting there: Allow 20 minutes for the 6-mile drive from Bar Harbor. Follow Eagle Lake Rd west and turn left onto Park Loop Rd. Follow signs to the well-marked Cadillac Mountain entrance.
Pair with: A hearty breakfast at Cafe This Way.
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