15 things all visitors to French Polynesia should know before they go

French Polynesia – or certainly its two most famous islands, Tahiti and Bora Bora – may well be the most romanticized islands on Earth. Utopia does, indeed, exist and it’s a place where Polynesians live amongst tall, triangular green mountains that plunge into those famous warm, blue, clear lagoons.

But there’s a lot to know before you go, and things to bear in mind while you’re there. For starters: there are 118 islands that make up French Polynesia (not just those famous two) so the options for escape are almost endless. 

Growing up in the neighboring Cook Islands, I’ve visited French Polynesia 10 times, and although I’m much further away now, I take any opportunity I can to return. Here are the most important things you need to know to have the ultimate stay here.

Planning for your trip to French Polynesia

1. Go in wet season for fewer crowds and lower prices

Wet season for French Polynesia falls in the summer months between December and March. There’s a slight chance of cyclones, but it’s much less than, say, Fiji or Vanuatu, owing to French Polynesia’s positioning at the eastern edge of the South Pacific cyclone zone. You’re also going to find prices a lot lower at this time and everywhere will be less busy. If you don’t mind humidity, you’ll often find the rains of summer are confined to afternoon storms, which soon blow out to sea. I’ve had some of my best trips here in summer.

2. High season can be busy and windy

Peak visitation season in French Polynesia is the dry season, which runs from June to September. But guess what? Not only is this the busiest time for tourists (these months coincide with summer school holidays for French nationals and Americans, who both frequent French Polynesia), it’s also the windiest. The dominant southeasterly trade winds are strongest at this time of year. Consider traveling in the shoulder season months of April and May (both of which are known for being less windy), or September and October instead.

3. Learn some French and Tahitian

French is the official language of French Polynesia, though Tahitian is usually spoken among locals. English is really only spoken in the places where tourists are most common, especially on Tahiti, Mo'orea and Bora Bora (though even there, you might be surprised how little English many locals speak). It’s worth knowing at least very basic French phrases, or better yet, Tahitian phrases. Just a couple of terms like mau ruru (thank you), nana (goodbye) and la orana (hello) will get you a long way with locals.

4. You will need to carry cash

On my first trip to Tahiti, I needed cash and I spent two days looking for an ATM on the small island of Huahine. While credit cards are now widely accepted in hotels and in larger restaurants, at most other places cash is still king. The local currency is the Cour de Franc Pacifique (CFP) – and there are ATMs available on all the main islands – but do yourself a favor and get plenty of money out at the airport on arrival just in case.

5. Allow yourself plenty of time to explore 

While French Polynesia is most famous for its lagoons, there’s so much more to the destination. If you plan to see numerous islands of the chain, allow for delayed flights and a slower pace in getting around them – nothing moves fast in Polynesia!

You'll also want to factor in time for attractions you might not have associated with the region. For example, Tahiti’s wilder west coast offers day-long canyoning experiences with outfitters like Natura Exploration or Tahiti Riva Trek in 800,000-year-old lava tubes. There are mountains over 2km-high to hike to, along with horse riding, ATV and 4WD options to explore numerous valleys in Tahiti’s vast hinterland. On islands beyond Tahiti, allow yourself entire days of exploring by rental car or scooter: the roads here are relatively safe (though watch out for speeding drivers) and offer sightseeing possibilities across the islands. There’s also great hiking on Bora Bora.

6. Tahiti celebrates French Polynesia’s most important cultural event in July

Heiva i Tahiti completely takes over Tahiti in July, with similar celebrations held across the other islands. It’s a month-long cultural celebration that attracts a lot of tourists, and also brings a lot of French Polynesians living on outer islands to the island of Tahiti, where the majority of the action takes place. While the atmosphere is electric – dance troupes from all over the islands compete throughout Tahiti and crowds gather to watch – it can also be a difficult month to find accommodations and make restaurant bookings. 

Traveling around French Polynesia

1. Go beyond the obvious islands

As mentioned, French Polynesia isn’t just about Tahiti and Bora Bora – there are 118 islands, spread across five very unique archipelagos. While its outer islands – like the Marquesas and the Gambier Archipelago – are difficult and expensive to access, many lesser-known islands are right next to the famous ones (like Ra’iatea, Taha’a and Huahine, which are close to Bora Bora; or Mo’orea which is a short ferry ride from Tahiti). Islands such as Taha’a can give you an idea of how Tahiti once might have been.

2. Book interisland transport early

Domestic flights aren’t cheap, and they’re often not particularly frequent. Air Tahiti is the main interisland airline, and it offers 10 different multi-island passes, which can save you thousands if you’re looking to really explore. Air Moana also operates. Book early – seats fill up fast especially around holiday time when locals who moved to Pape’ete for work try to get home to see families. Ferries also operate between some islands, like Tahiti to Mo’orea, or Bora Bora to Ra’iatea.

3. Don't miss the unspoilt beauty of Tahiti Iti

Connected to Tahiti’s main island (Tahiti Nui or “big Tahiti”) by landbridge, and only a 70-minute trip from Pape’ete by car (depending on traffic), is the magical little island of Tahiti Iti (which translates to “‘little Tahiti”). Coming here is like seeing Tahiti as it was over a century ago. There’s unspoilt wild beauty here, with mountains, and even waterfalls, tumbling right into the lagoon. Most of it is only partially accessible by road. To truly experience its vastness, take a hiking journey or a full-day boat trip from the end of the road at big-wave surfing destination, Teahupoʻo.

Food and drink in French Polynesia

1. Save money by eating at food trucks and markets

Let’s not beat around the bush – French Polynesia can be one of the most expensive destinations on Earth. Most goods are imported and locals don’t pay income tax (you help pay it for them, on the cost of goods). The cost of dining and drinking at resorts may make your heart flutter, and even the prices on menus outside of resorts can be a shock. So eat like a local. Roulottes (food trucks) operate all over the islands, especially on Tahiti. They offer the freshest seafood at decent prices, and you’ll be surrounded by locals, not tourists. Also consider markets, especially the food market in the center of Pape’ete, which is open seven days a week.

Health and safety in French Polynesia

1. Be cautious in Pape’ete at night

Tahiti may look like heaven, but its capital Pape’ete should be visited with a degree of caution. This is where many outer islanders end up and competition for employment can be competitive. Unemployment can lead to opportunity crimes. Be vigilant against petty theft during the day, and at night, stick to well-lit, busy areas. 

2. Mosquito-borne viruses are a serious risk

French Polynesia has suffered many outbreaks of serious mosquito-borne viruses since the 1930s. The Zika virus was spread throughout here from 2013, dengue fever is a constant menace, serious joint pain virus chikungunya has circulated here numerous times and Ross River fever comes and goes. Viruses like dengue fever tend to be more prevalent around urban areas (like Pape’ete) but always play it safe in French Polynesia by using insect repellent, wearing long sleeves and pants, and keeping insect doors closed at your accommodations.

Etiquette in French Polynesia

1. Be respectful to the locals with these dos and don'ts

There are various aspects of etiquette to bear in mind in French Polynesia. When shopping, don’t try to haggle on the price. Locals aren’t interested in negotiations and it’s disrespectful to try to argue them down. Don’t wear revealing clothing or bathing suits in villages, and and don’t take photos of people before asking. Greet locals in their own language and always remove your shoes before entering their homes. 

2. Many places are closed on Sundays

Sunday in French Polynesia is a time for rest, family and church. Most businesses and even some tourist sites close or reduce hours. Tourists are welcome to join church services, which are mostly in Tahitian. There's beautiful singing and they usually end with a feast.

3. The slower pace of life in French Polynesia is part of its charm

Things move a lot slower in French Polynesia. Don’t expect rigid schedules or instant service. Embrace the laid-back lifestyle by recognizing that flights can be delayed, shops may open late, and locals take their time. Many businesses close in the heat of the day before reopening an hour or two later, and they don't remain open into the evening.