Introducing Luganville

Vanuatu’s northern capital has a wide main street that sprawls along several kilometres of waterfront with interesting views at every corner, two main parks and dozens of dusty shops.

The town has that sleepy tropical feel, as though something is about to happen. And to be sure, the president’s cavalcade has just swished past; a contingent of students is marching by, feathers in their hair – they must be from Tanna; a taxi pulls over and the driver asks if you’re going to the airport as the plane’s been delayed two hours. It’s a feeling of belonging even if you’re only here a week.

Before WWII, Luganville was a scattered collection of modest buildings separated by coconut plantations. Then the Americans came and changed its face forever. Now the council has a beautification programme in action. Things are changing again.