Things to do in Izmir
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İzmir Ethnography Museum
A bit more engaging than the Archaeology Museum next door is the İzmir Ethnography Museum. Originally built in 1831 as the St Roche Hospital, this lovely old four-storey stone building houses colourful displays (including dioramas, photos and information panels) demonstrating local arts, crafts and customs. You'll learn about everything from camel wrestling, pottery and the task of tin-plating to felt-making, embroidery and the art of making those curious little blue-and-white 'evil eye' beads. Other displays include weaponry, jewellery and beautiful illustrated manuscripts.
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İzmir Archaeology Museum
İzmir's Archaeology Museum is a short, unsignposted walk up the hill from Konak. It contains a fine collection of Greek and Roman artefacts. The displays are a little dry in places, but look out in particular for the beautifully decorated sarcophagi, the head of a gigantic statue of Domitian that once stood at Ephesus, and the impressive frieze depicting the funeral games from the mausoleum at Belevi (250 BC).
To get here, exit the metro and at the crossroads head left up the hill towards the red-tiled, grand building half way up the hill.
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Museum of History & Art
Containing three separate departments (Sculpture, Ceramics and Precious Artefacts), this museum gives a good overview of the region's artistic heritage. Look out for the 2nd-century-AD high relief of Poseidon and Demeter from the Agora, the late Neolithic anthropomorphic vase, and the cute sitting Aphrodites from the Roman period.
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Asansör
Housed at the top of an early 20th-century elevator, the location is İzmir's best, loved by both readers and local couples. In addition to the stunning panoramic views, it makes a cool refuge in summer, well away from the main tourist trail. A range of meat dishes is joined by pastas and salads; if you can't afford them, try the smaller cafe opposite (sandwiches TL5 to TL8.50, open same hours) or come for a beer (TL6). It's about 2km from the town centre.
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Agora
The ancient Agora, built for Alexander the Great, was ruined in an earthquake in AD 178, but rebuilt soon after by the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. Colonnades of reconstructed Corinthian columns, vaulted chambers and arches give you a good idea of what a Roman bazaar must have looked like. Later, a Muslim cemetery was built on the site and many of the old tombstones can be seen around the perimeter of the Agora. Ask for the free brochures, which give a good introduction. The site's entered on the south side, just off Gazi Osman Paşa Bulvarı.
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Bazaar
İzmir's Bazaar is a little slice of fast-vanishing Turkey; this is also the place to head for İzmir's heart and soul. It's a great place to get lost for a few hours amid the stalls, sound of caged songbirds, wedding dress shops and spice stalls. Seek out if you can the flower and bead markets, then stop for a reviving shot of Turkish coffee in one of the delightful cafés at its core.
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Simorg Café
With its Orientalist interior (complete with carpets, old maps and portraits of sultans and their harems), this café makes a great place to recline and rest after a run around the bazaar. The 'coffee made in cup' is a speciality of the area as is the mantı (Turkish ravioli). There's live Turkish music on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 19:00 to 21:30.
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Ephesus and St. Mary's House Day Trip from Izmir
8 hours (Departs Izmir, Turkey)
by Viator
No trip to Turkey is complete without exploring the ancient ruins of Ephesus - the best-preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean. You will also vis…Not LP reviewed
from USD$71.25 -
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Atatürk Evi
During İzmir's 19th-century heyday the kordon was lined with stately offices and fine houses. Most of these have long since vanished, but this building gives an idea of what the homes of the wealthy would have looked like. Atatürk stayed here between 1930 and 1934 whenever he visited the city.
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Pamukkale and Hierapolis
9 hours (Departs Izmir, Turkey)
by Viator
Succumb to the spectacular sight of Pamukkale - a unique natural wonder with dazzling white petrified lime cascades. At the ancient city of Hierapolis explore i…Not LP reviewed
from USD$165.00 Advertisement
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Dört Mevsim Et Lokantası
Famous as far afield as Ankara and İstanbul, this award-winning lokanta serves excellent food at reasonable prices. From the open ocakbaşı (grill), try the delicious chargrilled-melted cheese, stuffed aubergine kebab or köfte with chilli (the house specialities).
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Kızlarağası Han
This restored caravanserai (1744) is like a much smaller, calmer version of İstanbul's famous Covered Bazaar. The market is touristy, with many items from the far end of the Silk Road (China), but good for a wander. There's a cafe in the courtyard, where merchants once tethered their camels.
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İzmir Kültür Vakfıl
From mid-June to mid-July the annual International İzmir Festival offers performances of music and dance in Çeşme and Ephesus as well as İzmir (in the Kültür Park). Call the İzmir Kültür Vakfıl south of town to find out what's on where.
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Deniz Restaurant
İzmir's premier fish restaurant is still going strong, offering dishes such as fish paella as well as the odd kebap, but it's expensive even by fish eateries' standards. Try the house speciality, tuzda balık (fish baked in a block of salt that's broken at your table; suitable for three or four people). Expect your fellow diners to be in their best party frocks.
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Balık Pişiricisi
The queues of diners on the street and waiters galloping from table to table reveal much about this fish restaurant. Though simple and modern, it has a reputation for good seafood at reasonable prices. Try the speciality, dil şiş (grilled sole).
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Köfte Neşe
At the other end of the bazaar, this place claims İzmir's 'best-köfte-in-town' crown. Try also the piyas (white beans and onion in olive oil and lemon juice) - an Aegean speciality. Later, have a coffee at one of the pretty cafés nearby.
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Day Trip to Pergamum and Asklepion from Izmir
8 hours (Departs Izmir, Turkey)
by Viator
Visit Pergamum, an ancient city dating before the 4th century BC. It's home to the second largest library in the ancient world, the steepest Theatre of Anatolia…Not LP reviewed
from USD$71.25 -
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Kemal'ın Yeri Deniz Mahsülleri
Friendly, informal and fun, this restaurant in the Alsancak district prides itself on 'customer satisfaction', and serves good fish dishes at great prices. Try the grilled kalamar with the secret - and sumptuous - house 'mayonnaise'.
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Izmir Half-Day Sightseeing Tour
3 hours (Departs Izmir, Turkey)
by Viator
Discover the magic of Izmir on an introductory half-day tour that covers all the highlights. Wander through the ancient Agora, marvel at the ruins of Alexander …Not LP reviewed
from USD$50.00 -
Private Tour: Ephesus and St. Mary's House
by Viator
On this privately guided tour, journey to ancient Ephesus with such sites as the ruins of the Great Theatre, the Library of Celsius and the Temple of Hadrian, y…Not LP reviewed
from USD$106.25 Advertisement
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Rıza Aksüt
In the Baş Durak area of the bazaar, try the peynir tatlısı (sponge dessert made with cheese), preferably kaymaklı (with cream), at this dessert shop.
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Kırçiçeği
This local chain is pricey but worth it for the great pide (TL8) – including ıspanaklı peynirli (cheese and spinach) and kuşbaşılı kaşarlı ('bird's head'; the bits of meat supposedly resemble birds' heads) – and kebaps. The ayran (yoghurt drink) brand, Eker, from Bursa, is not widely available.
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Tabaklar
In the thick of the bazaar, and serving fish at affordable prices, this simple but hugely popular place is one of İzmir's best kept culinary secrets. Try the speciality: dil şiş (grilled sole).
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Güney Doğ
Away from the hustle and bustle of the train station on a pretty street under a leafy wall, the charming, elderly owner serves delicious köfte and meat and veggie kebaps at heart-breakingly modest prices.
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Kalamiş
For a nargileh over a game of backgammon or okey (kind of Turkish dominoes) head for this atmospheric institution. Old men line the yellowed interior, but students (of both sexes) occupy the 1st floor.
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