Sights in Izmir
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A
İzmir Ethnography Museum
A bit more engaging than the Archaeology Museum next door is the İzmir Ethnography Museum. Originally built in 1831 as the St Roche Hospital, this lovely old four-storey stone building houses colourful displays (including dioramas, photos and information panels) demonstrating local arts, crafts and customs. You'll learn about everything from camel wrestling, pottery and the task of tin-plating to felt-making, embroidery and the art of making those curious little blue-and-white 'evil eye' beads. Other displays include weaponry, jewellery and beautiful illustrated manuscripts.
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B
İzmir Archaeology Museum
İzmir's Archaeology Museum is a short, unsignposted walk up the hill from Konak. It contains a fine collection of Greek and Roman artefacts. The displays are a little dry in places, but look out in particular for the beautifully decorated sarcophagi, the head of a gigantic statue of Domitian that once stood at Ephesus, and the impressive frieze depicting the funeral games from the mausoleum at Belevi (250 BC).
To get here, exit the metro and at the crossroads head left up the hill towards the red-tiled, grand building half way up the hill.
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C
Museum of History & Art
A newly opened museum in the Kültür Park is the Museum of History & Art. Containing three separate departments, Sculpture, Ceramics, and Precious Artefacts, it gives a good overview of the region's artistic heritage. Look out in particular for the 2nd-century AD high relief of Poseidon and Demeter and the large hunting mosaic from Kadifekale. The museum has a small but well stocked bookshop with publications on Turkish art, cooking, and culture.
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D
Agora
The ancient Agora, built for Alexander the Great, was ruined in an earthquake in AD 178, but rebuilt by Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius. Colonnades of Corinthian columns, vaulted chambers and a reconstructed arch give you a good idea of what a Roman bazaar must have looked like. Later, a Muslim cemetery was built on the site and you can see many of the old tombstones around the perimeter. The free brochure gives a good introduction.
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E
Atatürk Evi
During İzmir's 19th-century heyday the Kordon was lined with stately offices and the fine houses of the wealthy. Most of these have long since vanished, although at the Alsancak end of the waterfront the preserved wooden Atatürk Evi gives an idea of what the homes of the wealthy would have looked like.
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F
Kızlarağası Han
On the Konak side of the bazaar it's fun trying to find the restored Kızlarağası Han, a covered market built in 1744 and rather like a smaller, calmer version of İstanbul's famous Covered Bazaar. When you're ready to be found again, ask the way back to Basmane or Konak.
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G
İzmir Kültür Vakfıl
From mid-June to mid-July the annual International İzmir Festival offers performances of music and dance in Çeşme and Ephesus as well as İzmir (in the Kültür Park). Call the İzmir Kültür Vakfıl south of town to find out what's on where.
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H
Şıfalı Lux Hamam
If bathing facilities at your hotel are rudimentary, you can patronise the Şıfalı Lux Hamam off Anafartalar Caddesi. It's clean, with a lovely domed and marble interior.
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