Blogs we like

Like El Panchan in Mexico, El Retiro is a little community of cabanas, hammocks and camping space set out in the middle of nowhere.  It has a restaurant, a sauna (not all of Guatemala is hot, hey), hot showers, a tour organiser, wi-fi, for heaven’s sake… all set by a river on a hill surrounded by mountains.  And it’s just out of the town of Lanquin, the nearest town to the famous natural bridge of Semuc Champey.

El Retiro is a really nice place to be, provided you’re okay with being surrounded by only other travellers.  After weeks of seeing almost no other tourists, it can be a little disorientating and more than a little overwhelming.  I think it wants to have the hippie vibe, but to be honest it’s just plain more about the cool – where the cool kids hang out and party until the small hours of the morning.

Which leads neatly onto the restaurant (where you party until the small hours of the morning).  There’s only one restaurant so it has to try and cater for as many people and in as organised a way as possible.  And here’s how it handles it:

Every night is a buffet, with each night of the week taking a different theme.  I can’t remember them all, but here are a few:  Mexican, Italian, Fish, English Roast… wish I was there for all of them.  The food was amazing.  Masses of choice, fresh salad and vegetables (oh, god, vegetables… my impending scurvy has been countered), and they organise it really well.  You sign up for the evening – and if you don’t get in quick, you might not make it on the list.  There were a few people on the English Roast night that had to take the veggie option – and it all kicks of at 7pm.  The veggies are called up first – and then the bell for the meat-eaters rings.  I have never seen such a swarm of people jump up and run for the plates.  But they very neatly tick you off the list one at a time so that it’s not a complete free-for-all… and then, after everyone has had a fair share, the bell rings for seconds and everyone who hasn’t already made themselves ill by overloading their plates gobbles up whatever’s left.  It’s a great way to minimise waste and I’ve never eaten so much in my life.  Awesome, and exactly what is needed after a very active day!

You can stay in a loft (where you’ll probably get eaten alive), a dorm (where you’ll save your money) or a private room where you can swing on a hammock outside.  You can jump in the river.  You can drink 241 cuba libres and play giant Jenga all night.  Lots of fun, very easy and comfortable – but don’t forget you’re in the middle of Guatemala, and you might need a mosquito net just to protect you from the cockroaches!