Things to do in Den Haag
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Binnenhof
Adjoining the Mauritshuis, the Binnenhof is surrounded by parliamentary buildings that have long been at the heart of Dutch politics, though parliament now meets in a modern building on the south side.
The central courtyard looks sterile now but was once used for executions. A highlight of the complex is the 13th-century Ridderzaal (Knights' Hall). The Gothic dining hall has been carefully restored.
The North Wing is still home to the Upper Chamber of the Dutch Parliament, in 17th-century splendour. The Lower Chamber used to meet in the ballroom, in the 19th-century wing. It all looks a bit twee and you can see why the politicians were anxious to decamp to the sleek new ex…
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Scheveningen
The long beach at Scheveningen, pronounced – if possible – as s’CHay-fuh-ninger, attracts nine million visitors per year. It’s horribly developed: architects who lost hospital commissions have designed all manner of modern nightmares overlooking the strand. It’s tacky, but you might just find pleasure in the carnival atmosphere.
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Mauritshuis
For an introduction to Dutch and Flemish Art 101, visit the Mauritshuis, a small museum in a jewel-box of an old palace. Highlights include the Dutch Mona Lisa: Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Rembrandts include a wistful self-portrait from the year of his death, 1669, and The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp.
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Cloos
One of a gaggle of swank cafes on the vast Plein. Rest your gentrified butt on the comfy wicker chairs and watch the pigeons bedevil the solemn statue of Willem Den Eerste, hero of the Spanish war. No telling what the famous nationalist would have thought about Cloos’ Italian menu.
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De Passage
De Passage, off Hofweg ad Spuistraat, is a 19th-century covered arcade built to give locals an option for luxury goods from Paris.
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Dr Anton Philipszaal
Home to the Residentie Orkest, Den Haag’s classical symphony orchestra.
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Kurzaal Bar
Even if you're not staying at the plush, 19th-century Kurhaus Hotel, it's worth popping in for a drink at its bar (but wear your best shoes). The Kurzaal's on the edge of a stunning dancehall/restaurant with period trimmings, painted ceiling, frescoes, chandeliers, huge potted plants, portholes, artworks, and photos of Jacques Brel, Bing Crosby… The Rolling Stones played their shortest-ever concert here - just three minutes, before rioting teenage girls took over.
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Escher in het Paleis Museum
The Lange Voorhout Palace was once Queen Emma’s residence. Now it’s home to the work of Dutch graphic artist MC Escher. Escher in het Paleis Museum is a permanent exhibition featuring notes, letters, drafts, photos and fully mature works covering Escher’s entire career, from his early realism to the later phantasmagoria. There are some imaginative displays, including a virtual reality reconstruction of Escher’s impossible buildings.
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New Town Hall
The huge new town hall is the hotly debated work by US architect Richard Meier. The ‘official’ nickname of the building is the ‘white swan’, but locals prefer the ‘ice palace’. If allowed, take the elevator to the town hall’s 11th floor and look at the complex that has two pointed towers at one end and a dome-topped round tower at the other.
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Topkapi Sense Restaurant
An 'Ottoman' restaurant with cuisine from Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Syria, Algeria, Morocco… The couscous with sea bass is a winner, as is the baked, stuffed zucchini. Ruby-red drapes and beads combine with low lighting to create a suitable atmosphere, although the guy in the corner playing cheesy tunes on his synthetic organ tempers it.
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Vredespaleis
The UN International Court of Justice is housed in the Vredespaleis. The grand building was donated by American steel maker Andrew Carnegie for use by the International Court of Arbitration, an early international body whose goal was the prevention of war. Sadly, WWI broke out one year after it opened in 1913.
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Boterwaag
This old weigh-house serves as a café-restaurant and provides a distinctive drinking and eating experience, with its high ceilings, large windows, candle fetish, nooks and crannies to hide out in, and great beer list. When we were here, a kooky kid was riding around inside on a unicycle and no-one batted an eyelid.
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Gemeentemuseum
Admirers of De Stijl, and in particular of Piet Mondrian, mustn’t miss the Berlage-designed Gemeentemuseum. It houses a large collection of works by neoplasticist artists and others from the late 19th century, as well as extensive exhibits of applied arts, costumes and musical instruments.
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Les Ombrellas
Les Ombrellas Is situated at a confluence of canals in one of the city’s most charming districts, this long-running favourite sets up tables across the shady plaza. The tank with live crabs tells you that this is seafood country and the very long menu abounds with choice.
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Fiddler
This large, split-level, wood-panelled English microbrewery always has a decent crowd snacking on the OK pub food and the Fiddler's own beers: an ale, a pale ale and a stout. In the end, it's probably a bit too cavernous - intimacy's hard to come by. Good location: in the eye of the Grote Kerk.
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PUCK
The restaurant's vibrant paint job is apparently a tribute to the owner's daughter's love of M&Ms, and that refreshing lack of attitude and formality carries over to the fusion menu. A case in point: pan-sautéed duck breast over oven-roasted fries, with Napa cabbage and maple syrup.
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OKA
This swish, authentic Japanese restaurant serves up delectable sushi and teppanyaki. The hostess, Ms JoJo Phang, is a bit of a personality - she says she can arrange on-site bachelor parties, ironing out all the details in a 'private talk tailored to that evening's party boy'.
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Panorama Mesdag
The Panorama Mesdag contains the Panorama (1881), a huge 360-degree painting of Scheveningen that was painted by Hendrik Willem Mesdag. The panorama is viewed from a constructed dune, with real sand and beach chairs; birdsong and wave sounds are piped through.
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Madurodam
Complete with 1:25 scale versions of Schiphol, Amsterdam, windmills and tulips, Rotterdam harbour and the Delta dykes, Madurodam is a miniaturised Netherlands. It’s an enlightening example of the Dutch tendency to put their world under a microscope.
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Garoeda
Since 1949, this elegant restaurant has been serving spicy and fresh Indonesian fare from its airy corner location. Most people opt for one of seven variations of rijsttafel, the panoply of dishes that let you savour foods from across the archipelago.
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Montmartre
This brasserie has décor that's a little bit lacy and a lunch menu that's very French: understated, yet refined, with lavish attention to detail. The baguettes are seriously pleasing, with all kinds of cheeses and extras like marinated eggplant.
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Café De Oude Mol
Some of the oude (old) National Geographics piled in the window actually predate the crusty yet genial characters arrayed around the bar. Pass through the ivy-covered door and you’ll find Den Haag without the pretence.
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Galerij Prins Willem V
The Galerij Prins Willem V was the first public museum in the Netherlands when it opened in 1773. Paintings are hung in the manner popular in the 18th century. The gallery is also part of the Gevangenpoort renovations.
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Beachclub Doen
A vision of white, Doen is one of the least tacky of the plethora of beach bars lining the sands. Palm trees shivering in the North Sea breeze add atmosphere to sofas, loungers and other good chillin’ and drinkin’ spots.
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