Jersey is the biggest, and its rivals would say brashest, of the Channel Islands. Its capital, St Helier, does have more than a whiff of the offshore finance centre it is - think shimmering steel and glass, and pinstripe suits. But the island is also much more; its coast alone is 48 miles long. Exquisite swaths of sandy beach fringe the south, east and west sides, rugged cliffs - good for walking and cycling - frame the north, and countless tranquil lanes lie in between. Its richly textured history is also brought to life by a clutch of excellent museums.