Low-rise Jaffna has a compulsively fascinating cityscape. Mostly it’s a sprawling patchwork of comfortably middle-class colonial-era suburbs, almost lost in lush foliage and palms. But all this screeches to a halt in the commercial centre, which, in turn, rubs shoulders with the gaping holes and eerie rubble of bombed-out former civic offices. It’s an intriguing, friendly and utterly untouristed place that repays gentle exploration. You’ll appreciate Jaffna more for its insights into the region’s special personality than for any specific sights.