There’s a noticeably absent cosmopolitan feel in this port city known for raw fish and a harsh dialect that people in Seoul sometimes find incomprehensible. Underneath the drab urban landscape created by an unimaginative use of concrete, quirky people jump the queue, shout while conversing and giggle at the sight of international travellers. Rough around the edges indeed, but like any rogue there’s a charming side that begins to emerge once formal barriers have been dropped over dinner and drinks. Cultural mores prevent most people from initiating contact with foreigners. But if you take the first step, the level of kindness and generosity extended your way can be surprising.