Things to do in Saudi Arabia
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Green Island
Spread across the water in the form of little chalets on stilts (complete with glass floor panels that reveal the fish and the water beneath), this is the place to come if you're after a final splurge or a romantic revival. The menu is a fusion of Arab, Asian and Continental cuisines. Try the locally loved rock lobster bisque, or go for the all-out 'seafood platter Green Island'.
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Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation
Don't be put off by the grandiose name: Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation definitely merits a visit. The vast palace contains over 300 rooms crammed with a collection built over a local merchant's lifetime.
The four-floor collection ranges from exquisite Islamic manuscripts and old coins to stunning furniture and pottery (some of it bought from international art houses). Exhibits are accompanied by good captions and information panels, as well as a few dioramas.
Note that, unfortunately, it can't open for less than 10 people; try and form a group or telephone to join one.
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A
Al-Shawly Corner
This Filipino-run restaurant remains wildly popular with Jeddah's Asian community. Though simple and unpretentious, it's clean, the food is fresh, and the service is fast and efficient. There's also a family section and a few outdoor 'cubicles'. Ask for the 'Budget Meal' (soup, choice of two mains, rice and Coke), which is terrific value.
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Asia Restaurant
A longstanding favourite locally (particularly among Jeddah's expats), the Asia's Thai food is much sought after, particularly the Tom Yum Kum soup and its fish seafood such as deep-fried grouper with tasty chilli sauce. Reserve at weekends - it's packed.
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Jarir Bookstore, Falasteen St
Jarir Bookstore, Falasteen St
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Madain Saleh
If you can only visit one place in Saudi Arabia, make it Madain Saleh, which rises up from the sands in a landscape of rare beauty. Madain Saleh is home to 131 tombs, 45 of which carry inscriptions in late Aramaic script above the doors. A permit is required but most hotels and tour operators can arrange one if you fax them your details a week in advance.
The Nabataeans, who carved the astonishing city of Petra (in Jordan) chose Madain Saleh as their second city. Although the tombs are less spectacular here than those in Petra, the landscape of sweeping sand and wonderful rock formations is stunningly beautiful. The tombs are also in an excellent state of preservation,…
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B
National Museum
The state-of-the-art National Museum is without question one of the best museums in the Middle East. Its eight floors contain well-designed, engaging and informative displays on Arabia's history, culture and art, including beautiful, original rock carvings, models and even a full-scale reconstruction of a Nabataean tomb.
Films (in English via headphones) shown on 180° screens complement the exhibits, as do virtual visits to sites and other excellent interactive displays.
It's great for a sneak preview of the Kingdom's attractions, a sum-up, or a virtual visit if you don't have time to get to places. Don't miss it.
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Al-Faisaliah Tower
Designed by British architect Norman Foster and built in 2000 by the Bin Laden construction company, Al-Faisaliah Tower was the first of the startling new structures to rise above Riyadh's skyline. It's most famous for its enormous glass globe (24m in diameter and made of 655 glass panels) near the summit.
On its 34 floors can be found a five-star deluxe hotel and four exclusive restaurants, offices, apartments, the Sky shopping malland a fabulous viewing platform. The tower's needlepoint pinnacle (with a crescent on the tip) sits 267m above the ground.
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Kingdom Tower
Riyadh's newest landmark, the Kingdom Tower is another stunning piece of modern architecture. Known as the 'necklace' for its unusual apex, it's particularly conspicuous at night when the upper sweep is lit with constantly-changing coloured lights.
Rising 302m above the ground, its most distinctive feature is the steel-and-glass, 300-tonne bridge connecting the two towers. High-speed elevators fly you (at 180km/h) to the 99th floor Sky Bridge. If you're feeling peckish, the tower is also home to some reputable restaurants, including Spazio 77.
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C
Naseef House
Sadly, Jeddah's old coral houses are in a very sorry state. Almost unique among the sea of dilapidation, however, is the restored Naseef House, which once belonged to one of Jeddah's most powerful trading families. It's set back from souq al-Alawi.
Look out for the wide ramps installed by King Abdul Aziz in place of staircases so that camel-mounted messengers could ride all the way to the upper terrace in order to deliver messages. The house is also home to the General Directory for Culture and Tourism in Jeddah.
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Fish Market
The colourful and frenetic fish market is located in Al-Balad, just over 1km south of the Red Sea Palace Hotel. It's well worth a wander if only to admire Saudi's Red Sea riches - there's at least 50 species of fish on display ranging from hammerhead sharks to grouper, parrot fish and squid.
Don't miss, if you can, the daily auction of the morning's catch (from 05:00 to 09:00), when the place really lights up. Note that as the market's situated close to the Coast Guard and Port, photos are not permitted.
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Souq al-Alawi
Souq al-Alawi, which runs E off Al-Dahab St, is the most extensive and traditional souq in the Kingdom. With wonderful old houses towering skyward, the market stalls cut into the heart of the old city and buzz with the activity of traders and pilgrims from across the sea and desert in much the same way it has for more than a millennia. The atmosphere is especially cosmopolitan during the haj season. Try and be here at sunset when the call to prayer fills the lanes - this is Arabia at its best.
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National Museum
The state-of-the-art National Museum has eight galleries that provide a grand sweep through the episc of Arabia's history. There are reconstructed Dilmun tombs, fragments of rock art, and models of old Dir'aiyah, Jeddah and the holy mosques in Mecca and Medina.
What makes this museum stand out are the push button prompts, virtual visits to ancient sites, small-screen cinemas and audio commentary in English and Arabic at many points.
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Najd Village
Serving Saudi food in a Saudi setting (designed like a central-region village), this place is almost unique in the Kingdom. It's the perfect place to sample kasba (meat withrice), or the Najd region speciality, hashi (baby camel). The set menu includes 14 different mains, coffee, dates and even bachoor (incense). Prices are reasonable and it's much loved by locals.
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Habalah
This deserted village, a fascinating remnant of old Arabia, is like no place on earth. The scenery from the ascending cable-car rates among the best views you'll see in the Kingdom. Leave behind the modern terracing and drinks stalls; the best preserved houses are 100m (328ft) north and south of the cable car station. Look for the carved interior doors.
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Sadd Al-Samallaghi Est Tour Company
With a solid reputation locally, this tour company can organise Saudi visas, tours, car rental (with or without drivers and guides), scuba diving, desert excursions (including falconry) and boat trips. Ahmed Mostafa, the Saudi owner (who lived formerly in Germany) runs the company with a killer combination of local know-how and Teutonic efficiency.
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Mirage Restaurant
Boasting 'the best Chinese chef in the Peninsula', the Mirage certainly attracts a loyal - and royal - following (the King's grandchildren were there when the author visited). The décor - illuminated fish tanks and water channels running down the centre - is, like the food, full of fun and panache. Reservations are essential at the weekend.
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E
Souq
Jeddah's souq immediately south of Al-Amir Fahd St and Al-Balad, is well worth seeking out. It's subdivided into different sections, some populated by different immigrant groups, such as Yemenis selling Yemeni coffee and jambiyas (tribesmen's ceremonial daggers). If you're here immediately before, during or after the haj, don't miss it.
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Shallaby Museum of Traditional Handicrafts & Hejazi Heritage
For those who have neither the time nor the energy to face Jeddah's 'Louvre' (aka Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation), try the Shallaby Museum of Traditional Handicrafts & Hejazi Heritage, with a good collection of coins, silver antiques (look out for the silver-plated wedding slippers) and traditional Bedouin clothes.
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Cigar Lounge
A badly kept secret among well-heeled 20- to 30-something Saudis as the place to take a date, it's all low-light...and discretion here. Set in the highest point of the Al-Faisaliah Tower, the views by day and night are spectacular. Snacks range from Beluga caviar to hot mezze. Drinks include coffee and non-alcoholic cocktails.
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The Globe
Considered one of Riyadh's top-ranking restaurants, the Globe is also one of the most romantic. Cosy, dimly-lit and with spectacular views of town, it's the place to go to gaze over candlelight. The haute cuisine cooking of the Austrian chef includes dishes such as pan-roasted foie gras, and butter-roasted wagu beef.
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Shorbatly House
Sadly, Jeddah's old coral houses are in a very sorry state. Shorbatly House boasts some lovely mashrabiyya (balconies with perforated screens to allow the air to circulate). Though much restored to something approaching its original state in the 1980s, it has since been allowed to deteriorate once again.
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Al-Nakheel Restaurant
Styled like a traditional tent (with open sides to let in the sea breezes), this is the place to come for a taste of Jeddah - in the culinary and cultural sense. It's wildly popular locally; even the Jeddah women let their hair down here (literally). The food is great; the fish and seafood is a speciality.
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General Directory for Culture & Tourism in Jeddah
The General Directory for Culture & Tourism in Jeddah organises an excellent 'lecture and walking tour' of Jeddah's history and architecture at 09:00 every Thursday, meeting at Naseef House. To book a place, email or call the charming Director, Sami Nowar. It's located south of Souq al-Alawi.
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H
Star Superstores Ltd
The largest supermarket in the downtown, with a reputation for reasonable prices, is the Star Superstores Ltd found inside the Corniche Commercial Centre. With its selection of fresh fruit, cheeses, freshly baked breads and olives, it's a good place for preparing a picnic. It also sells baby food.
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