Getting there & around
Contents
Local transport
Taxi
Almost any car in Moscow can be a taxi if the price is right, so get on the street and stick your arm out. Many private cars cruise around as unofficial taxis, known as 'gypsy cabs', and other drivers will often take you if they're going in the same direction. Expect to pay R150 to R200 for a ride around the city centre.
Official taxis - recognisable by their chequerboard logo on the side and/or a small green light in the windscreen - charge about the same. No driver uses a meter (even if the cab has one), and few will admit to having change.
Don't hesitate to wave on a car if you don't like the look of its occupants. As a general rule, it's best to avoid riding in cars with more than one person. Be particularly careful taking a taxi that is waiting outside a nightclub or bar.
If you book a taxi over the phone (hotel staff will do this for you if you don't speak Russian), the dispatcher will normally ring back within a few minutes to provide a description and license number of the car. It's best to provide at least an hour's notice before you need the taxi. Some reliable taxi companies (with websites in Russian only) :
Central Taxi Reservation Office (Tsentralnoe Byuro Zakazov Taxi; 495-627 0000; www.cbz-taxi.ru)
MV Motors (495-232 5232; www.7756775.ru)
New Yellow Taxi(495-940 8888; www.nyt.ru)
Taxi Bistro (495-961 0041; www.taxopark.ru)
Taxi Blues (495-105 5115; www.taxi-blues.ru)
Bus & tram
International services
International bus services offer the cheapest means of getting to Russia, although services to Moscow are limited.
Berlin Linien Bus (975 3309; www.berlinlinienbus.de; Leningradsky vokzal) Operates a daily bus service between Berlin and Moscow (€66, 12 hours).
Eurolines (975 2574 or 737 6743; www.eurolines.com; Leningradsky vokzal) Offers a bus service between St Petersburg and various Western European capitals.
Domestic services
Buses run to a number of towns and cities within 700km of Moscow. Fares are similar to kupeny (2nd-class) train fares. In general, travelling by bus is not as reliable or as comfortable as travelling by train, so it is best only for destinations with poor train services, including some Golden Ring towns. They tend to be crowded, although they are usually faster than the prigorodnye trains.
Book domestic tickets at Moscow's long-distance bus terminal, the Shchyolkovsky bus station (Shchyolkovskaya), 8km east of the city centre. Queues can be bad, so it's advisable to come here and book ahead, especially for travel on Friday, Saturday or Sunday.
Buses also depart from outside the various train stations, offering alternative transport to the destinations served by the train. These buses do not run according to a particular schedule, but rather leave when the bus is full. Likewise, they cannot be booked in advance.
Air
International fares fluctuate dramatically, depending on the season, economy and other factors. Departure tax will be included in the price of your airline ticket. Russian domestic fares tend to be more stable.
For general information on international airfares, as well as some tips for budget travellers, see www.waytorussia.net/transport/international/air.html.
Airlines
The former Soviet state airline, Aeroflot, has been decentralised into hundreds of smaller airlines ('baby-flots'), most with a regional focus. The upshot of this orgy of aerobatic entrepreneurship is relatively unregulated skies. Tales of Russian-airline safety lapses are commonplace, so do some research before booking your flight on one of the regional airlines. Aeroflot and Transaero are two national airlines that serve all major domestic destinations and meet international standards for safety and service.
Airline offices of international companies in Moscow include:
Aeroflot (753 5555; www.aeroflot.com/eng/; ul Petrovka 20/1, Petrovsky District; Chekhovskaya)
Air France (937 3839; www.airfrance.com; ul Korovy Val 7, Zamoskvorechie; Oktyabrskaya)
Alitalia (967 0110; www.alitalia.com; World Trade Centre, Krasnopresnenskaya nab 12, poezd 7, Barrikadnaya; Ulitsa 1905 Goda)
Austrian Airlines (995 0995; www.aua.com; Korovy Val 7, Zamoskvorechie; Oktyabrskaya)
British Airways (363 2525; www.britishairways.com; Business Centre Parus, 1-ya Tverskaya Yamskaya ul 23, Tverskoy District; Belorusskaya)
Delta Air Lines (937 9090; www.delta.com; Gogolevsky bul 11, Kropotkinskaya; Kropotkinskaya)
Finnair (933 0056; www.finnair.ru; Kropotinsky per 7, Khamovniki; Park Kultury)
KLM Royal Dutch Airlines (258 3600; www.klm.com; ul Usachyova 33/2, Khamovniki; Sportivnaya)
LOT Polish Airlines (775 7737; www.lot.com; Trubnaya ul 21/11, 3rd floor, Petrovsky District; Tsvetnoy Bulvar)
Lufthansa (737 6400; www.lufthansa.com; Renaissance Moscow Hotel, Olimpiysky pr 18, Petrovsky District; Prospekt Mira)
Malév-Hungarian Airlines (202 8416; www.malev.hu; Povarskaya ul 21, Barrikadnaya; Barrikadnaya)
SAS (775 4747; www.scandinavian.net; 1-ya Tverskaya Yamskaya ul 5, Tverskoy District; Mayakovskaya)
Swiss Air (937 7767; www.swiss.com; Paveletskaya pl 2, Zayauzie; Paveletskaya)
Transaero (241 4800; www.transaero.ru/english; 2-y Smolensky per 3, Arbat District; Smolenskaya)
Airports
Moscow has four main airports servicing international and domestic flights. Note that the destinations served by different airports can vary, so confirm your airport when you buy your ticket. Arrive at least 90 minutes before your flight in order to navigate check-in formalities and security.
As of 2008, all four major airports are accessible by a convenient Aeroexpress train (tel: 8-800- 700 3377; www.aero-express.ru). If you have a lot of luggage and you wish to take a taxi, it is highly recommended to book in advance to take advantage of fixed rates offered by most companies (usually R1000 to R1500 to/from any airport).
Domodedovo
Moscow's second airport, Domodedovo (code DME; 495-933 6666; www.domodedovo.ru, in Russian), has undergone extensive upgrades in recent years in order to service more international flights. Most notably, all British Airway flights now fly in and out of Domodedovo, as do some flights with American Airlines, Lufthansa and many other European airlines. It also services many flights to/from the Far East and Central Asia. It's 48km south of the centre.
The Aeroexpress train leaves Paveletsky vokzal for Domodedovo airport (adult/child R150/40, 45 minutes) every hour between 6am and 11pm, every half-hour during the busiest times. This route is particularly convenient for domestic flights, as you can check in for your flight at the train station.
Sheremetyevo-1&2
Sheremetyevo (code SVO; www.sheremetyevo-airport.ru) has two terminals. Moscow's main international airport is Sheremetyevo-2 (495-232 6565), 30km northwest of the city centre. It services most flights to/from places outside the former Soviet Union. Nearby Sheremetyevo-1 (495-232 6565) services flights to/from St Petersburg, the Baltic States, Belarus and northern European Russia. Bus No 517 and an airport shuttle bus run between the two terminals.
In 2008, the new express train line to Sheremetyevo opened with much fanfare, followed by much embarrassment, when the initial trains were delayed by hours. Presumably, the kinks have been ironed out by now, in which case the Aeroexpress train should leave Savyolovsky vokzal for Sheremetyevo airport (adult/child R250/65, 30 minutes) every hour between 5.30am and midnight. Check the schedule online in advance, as the departure times are sort of random.
Vnukovo
About 30km southwest of the city centre, Vnukovo airport (code VKO; 495-436 2813; www.vnukovo-airport.ru) serves the Caucasus, Moldova and Kaliningrad. This airport has also undergone substantial renovation and is expanding its services significantly. Specifically, the new budget airline Sky Express (tel: 495-648 9360, 495-580 9360; www.skyexpress.ru) flies in and out of Vnukovo.
The Aeroexpress train runs between Kievsky vokzal and Vnukovo airport (adult/child R120/30, 35 minutes, hourly) between 7am and noon and between 5pm and 8pm, with a few trains running in the middle of the day. Outside these hours, you can take a marshrutka (minibus) from Yugo-Zapadnaya metro (R50, 30 minutes).
Car & motorcycle
There's little reason for travellers to rent a car for getting around Moscow, as public transport is quite adequate, but you might want to consider car rental for trips out of the city. Beware that driving in Russia is truly an unfiltered Russian experience. Poor roads, maddeningly inadequate signposting, low-quality petrol and keen highway patrolmen can lead to frustration and dismay.
Rental
Car rental is usually only considered for trips out of the city.
Be aware that many firms won't let you take their cars out of the city, and others will only rent a car with a driver. This latter option is not necessarily a bad one as cars with drivers aren't always more expensive. Also you can avoid the trouble of coping with Russian roads and police.
The major international car-rental firms have outlets in Moscow (at either Sheremetyevo or Domodedovo airport, as well as in the city centre). Prices start at R1700 per day, although you may be able to cut this price by reserving in advance. The major car rental agencies will usually pick up or drop off the car at your hotel for an extra fee.
Avis (495-744 0733; www.avis-moscow.ru/en/; Meshchanskaya ul 7/1)
Europcar (495-775 7565; www.europcar.ru/eng/; Mozhayskoe sh 166) Cars prohibited from leaving Moscow Oblast.
Hertz (495-232 0889; www.hertz.ru; Tverskaya Zastava pl 2; Belorusskaya)
Thrifty (495-788 6888; www.thrifty.ru) Outer North (Leningradskoe sh 63B; Rechnoy Vokzal); Outer South (ul Obrucheva 27, bldg 1; Kaluzhskaya) Mileage limited to 200km per day.
Boat
To/from Moscow
There are numerous cruise boats plying the routes between Moscow and St Petersburg, many stopping at some of the Golden Ring cities on the way. Longer cruises to northern European Russia and south along the Volga also originate in either of these cities. Some cruises are specifically aimed at foreign tourists, but generally, for lower prices, you can also sail on a boat aimed at Russian holidaymakers. The food and accommodation may be less lavish. Some boat operators and agencies include:
Cruise Company Orthodox (499-943 8560; www.cruise.ru; ul Alabyana 5; Sokol) A Russian company that also caters to foreigners, meaning English-speaking staff and upgraded accommodation. Cruises go all the way down the Volga River to Rostov-on-Don, through the locks of the Rostov-Don Canal.
Infoflot (495-684 9188; www.infoflot.com, in Russian; ul Shchepkina 28, Moscow; Prospekt Mira) The market leader, with offices also in St Petersburg and Samara.
Mosturflot (495-221 7222; www.mosturflot.ru, in Russian)
Rechflot (495-363 9628; www.rechflot.ru, in Russian)
Rechturflot (495-638 6611; www.rtflot.ru, in Russian)
Russian Voyage (Russky Voyazh; 863-244 1066; www.rusvoyage.aaanet.ru, in Russian; Beregovaya ul 29, Rostov-on-Don) Agent for Don and Volga River cruises.
Solnechny Parus (812-279 4310; www.solpar.ru; ul Vosstania 55, St Petersburg; Chernyshevskaya) Also has its own fleet of yachts and motorboats for charter.
Vodohod (495-223 9611; www.vodohod.com/eng)
Train
Moscow has rail links to most parts of Russia, most former Soviet states, numerous countries in Eastern and Western Europe, and China and Mongolia. Prices are for a kupe (2nd-class in a four-seat couchette) ticket on a skory (fast) train.
Confusingly, the whole Russian rail network runs on Moscow time. You'll usually find timetables and station clocks on Moscow time, but if in doubt confirm these details carefully. The only general exception is suburban rail services, which stick to local time.
Types of train
The regular long-distance service is a fast train (skory poezd). It stops more often than an intercity train in the West and rarely gets up enough speed to merit the 'fast' label. Foreigners booking rail tickets through agencies are usually put on a skory train.
Generally, the best of the skory trains (firmenny) have cleaner cars, more polite attendants and much more convenient arrival and departure hours; they sometimes also have fewer stops, more 1st-class accommodation or functioning restaurants.
A passenger train (passazhirsky poezd) can take an awfully long time to travel between cities. They are found mostly on routes of 1000km or less, clanking and lurching from one small town to the next.
Suburban trains
When taking trains from Moscow, note the difference between long-distance and 'suburban' trains. Long-distance trains run to places at least three or four hours out of Moscow, with limited stops and a range of classes. Suburban trains, known as prigorodnye poezdy or elektrichka, run to within 100km or 200km of Moscow, stop almost everywhere, and have a single class of hard bench seats. You buy your ticket before the train leaves, and there's no capacity limit.
Most Moscow stations have a separate ticket hall for suburban trains, usually called the prigorodny zal, which is often tucked away at the side or back of the station building. Suburban trains are usually listed on separate timetables and may depart from a separate group of platforms.
Stations
Moscow's nine main train stations (vokzal):
Belorussky (Belarus; Tverskaya Zastava pl; Belorusskaya) For trains heading west, including trains to/from Belarus, Lithuania, Poland and Germany, and some trains to/from the Czech Republic.
Kazansky (Kazan; Komsomolskaya pl; Komsomolskaya) The start and end point for trains to/from the southeast, including Kazan and Central Asia.
Kursky (Kursk; pl Kurskogo Vokzala; Kurskaya) Serves points south and east, including Vladimir, the Caucasus, eastern Ukraine, Crimea, Georgia, Azerbaijan.
Kievsky (Kyiv, or Kiev; pl Kievskogo Vokzala; Kievskaya) Serves points southwest, including Kyiv, western Ukraine, Moldova, Slovakia, Hungary, Austria, Romania, Bulgaria and Venice, as well as some trains to/from the Czech Republic.
Leningradsky (Leningrad; Komsomolskaya pl; Komsomolskaya) For trains heading to/from the northwest, including St Petersburg, Vyborg, Estonia, Helsinki.
Paveletsky (Pavelets; Paveletskaya pl; Paveletskaya) For trains to/from points south, including the express train to Domodedovo airport.
Rizhsky (Riga; Rizhskaya pl; Rizhskaya) Serves Latvia.
Savyolovsky (Savyolov; pl Savyolovskogo Vokzala; Savyolovskaya) For trains to/from the northeast including Yaroslavl.
Yaroslavsky (Yaroslavl; Komsomolskaya pl; Komsomolskaya) Serves Yaroslavl and the longest-distance trains, including those to Mongolia, China, Russian Far East and anything east of the Urals.
Travel documents
Tickets
For long-distance trains it's best to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets on some trains may be available on the day of departure, but this is less likely in summer. Always take your passport along when buying a ticket.
Tickets are sold at the train stations themselves, but it is much easier to buy tickets from a travel agent or kassa zheleznoy dorogi (train-ticket office). These are often conveniently located in hotel lobbies. One agent selling airplane and train tickets is GlavAgentstvo, with the following outlets:
Belorussky vokzal (Belarus station)
Leningradsky vokzal (Leningrad station)
Lubyanka ploshchad (924 8728; Detsky Mir, Teatralny proezd 5/1; Lubyanka)
Pushkinskaya ploshchad (290 2771; Tverskoy bul 14/5; Pushkinskaya)
Sheremetyevo-1 airport
Subway & light railway
Metro
The Moscow metro (www.mosmetro.ru) is the easiest, quickest and cheapest way of getting around Moscow. Many of the elegant stations are marble-faced, frescoed, gilded works of art. The trains are generally reliable: you will rarely wait on the platform more than three minutes. Nonetheless, trains get packed during rush hour. Up to nine million people a day ride the metro, more than the London and New York City systems combined. Sometimes it feels like all nine million are trying to get on one train.
The 150-plus stations are marked with large 'M' signs. Magnetic tickets are sold at ticket booths (R19). It's useful to buy a multiple-ride ticket (10 rides for R155, 20 for R280), which saves you the hassle of queuing up every time.
Stations have maps of the system and signs on each platform showing the destination. Maps are generally in Cyrillic and Latin script, although the signs are usually only in Cyrillic. The carriages also have maps inside that show the stops for that line in both Roman and Cyrillic letters.
Interchange stations are linked by underground passages, indicated by perekhod (underground crossing) signs, usually blue with a stick figure running up the stairs. Be aware that when two or more lines meet, the intersection stations often have different names.
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