Sights in Sintra
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Palácio Nacional da Pena
Rising up from a thickly wooded peak and often enshrouded in swirling mist, Palácio Nacional da Pena is pure fantasy stuff. The wacky confection is a riot of onion domes, Moorish keyhole gates, writhing stone snakes, and crenellated towers in sherbet-bonbon pinks and lemons. Ferdinand of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, the artist-husband of Queen Maria II, commissioned Prussian architect Ludwig von Eschwege in 1840 to build the Bavarian-Manueline epic (and as a final flourish added an armoured statue of himself, overlooking the palace from a nearby peak).
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Castelo dos Mouros
Soaring 412m above sea level, this mist-enshrouded ruined castle is a Great Wall of China in miniature. Like a dragon’s backbone, this 9th-century Moorish castle’s dizzying ramparts wriggle across the mountain ridges and past moss-clad boulders the size of small buses. When the clouds peel away, the vistas over Sintra’s palace-dotted hill and dale to the glittering Atlantic are – like the climb – breathtaking.
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Convento dos Capuchos
Hidden in the woods is the bewitchingly hobbit-hole-like Convento dos Capuchos, built in 1560 to house 12 monks who lived in incredibly cramped conditions, their tiny cells having low, narrow doors. Byron mocked the monastery in his poem Childe Harold, referring to recluse Honorius who spent a staggering 36 years here (dying at age 95 in 1596).
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Museu do Brinquedo
Sintra’s toy story is Museu do Brinquedo. João Arbués Moreira’s fascinating 20,000-piece collection presents a chronological romp, from 3000-year-old Egyptian stone counters to a 1999 Barbie Burberry. Standouts feature vintage Barbies from a more demure, housewifely era and archrival Sindy dolls. Also note tin soldiers used to drum up Nazi support, WWII Action Men, penny toys and Japanese kokeshi wooden dolls. On the 3rd floor is a toy-repair workshop, where a man sits studiously working in a glass case, beside a bizarre tray of disembodied heads.
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E
Monserrate Park
Wild and rambling Monserrate Park is a 30-hectare garden created in the 18th century by wealthy English merchant Gerard de Visme, then enlarged by landscape painter William Stockdale (with help from London’s Kew Gardens). Its wooded hillsides bristle with exotic foliage, from Chinese weeping cypress to dragon trees and Himalayan rhododendrons. Seek out the Mexican garden nurturing palms, yuccas and agaves, and the bamboo-fringed Japanese garden abloom with camellias. The park is 3.5km west of Sintra-Vila.
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Palácio de Monserrate
The Moorish-inspired Palácio de Monserrate was constructed in the late 1850s by James Knowles for another wealthy Englishman, Sir Francis Cook. Previously on the site stood a Gothic-style villa, rented by the rich, infamous British Gothic writer, William Beckford, in 1794 after he fled Britain in the wake of a homosexual scandal. Visits to the recently restored Monserrate Palace are by 90-minute guided tour (including the grounds); reservations are essential.
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Museu de Arte Moderna
The world-class Museu de Arte Moderna hosts rotating exhibitions covering the entire modern art spectrum – from kinetic and pop art to surrealism and expressionism. Sheltering Hockney, Lichtenstein and Warhol originals, the permanent collection is part of billionaire José Berardo’s stash, which also graces the walls of Museu Colecção Berardo. Exhibits change frequently because of space limitations.
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Quinta da Regaleira
This magical villa and gardens is a neo-Manueline extravaganza, dreamed up by Italian opera-set designer, Luigi Manini, under the orders of Brazilian coffee tycoon, António Carvalho Monteiro, aka Monteiro dos Milhões (Moneybags Monteiro). The villa is surprisingly homely inside, despite its ferociously carved fireplaces, frescos and Venetian glass mosaics. Keep an eye out for mythological and Knights Templar symbols.
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Palácio Nacional de Sintra
The icing on Sintra-Vila’s Unesco World Heritage cake is this palace, whose iconic twin conical chimneys set imaginations into overdrive and cameras snapping. Of Moorish origins, the palace was first expanded by Dom Dinis (1261–1325), enlarged by João I in the 15th century (when the kitchens were built), then given a Manueline twist by Manuel I in the following century.
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Parque da Pena
A further 200m up the road from Castelo dos Mouros is Parque da Pena, filled with tropical plants, huge redwoods and fern trees, camellias, rhododendrons and lakes (note the castle-shaped duck houses for web-footed royalty!). It’s cheaper to buy a combined ticket if you want to visit Palácio Nacional da Pena too.
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