Kim Il Sung Square

This vast plaza would be the packed hub of any other world capital, but Pyongyang's central square and marching ground is strange in its emptiness, the open spaces seemingly cowed by the massive buildings surrounding it. Most impressive of these is the Grand People's Study House, the country's largest library and national centre of Juche studies. This is one of Pyongyang's most striking buildings, a socialist realist structure melded with traditional Korean architecture.

With over 30 million books, finding what you want is inevitably quite a challenge - and you will be proudly shown the incredible system of conveyer belts that can deliver books right to your desk. All foreign publications are viewable with special permission only, while even North Korean literature over 15 years old is proscribed to conceal the historical rewrites.

Other structures on the square include the Korean National Art Gallery, commonly included on tours, though it's frankly fairly dull, and the Korean Central History Museum, which is rarely visited by groups. There's a great view from the riverside bank across the Taedong to the Tower of the Juche Idea, where groups usually go to take photos.