What to do in Christchurch: your post-quake guide

Jan 10, 2012 4:17:52 AM

Brett Atkinson
Lonely Planet Author

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After two weeks on-the-ground research in Christchurch recently– Lonely Planet’s third visit since the February 2011 earthquake – we’re confident the city is one of New Zealand’s bravest and most resilient communities.

Our latest visit was unlike any other Lonely Planet research gig, with virtually all of the bars, cafes and restaurants recommended in our 2010 New Zealand guidebook no longer open. But amid the occasional uncertainty of aftershocks, Christchurch is re-emerging as one of NZ’s most exciting cities.

If you’re heading to the South Island of New Zealand, definitely spend a few days in the city. There’s still plenty to do, and you’ll be supporting the new businesses inspiring Christchurch’s renaissance.

Note that there is considerable demand for Christchurch accommodation, and booking ahead is strongly recommended. The city has been experiencing aftershocks, though latest reports suggest they could be (finally) moving away from the city; keep up-to-date with the latest info at christchurchnz.com.

Welcome to SoMo

Dubbed SoMo, the area ‘South of Moorhouse Ave’ is Christchurch’s most dynamic neighbourhood. Addington features the urban chic of the Addington Coffee Co-op, while Simo’s Deli serves excellent North African street food.

Addington is also the city’s new hub for live entertainment. Christchurch’s iconic Court Theatre has relocated into a restored warehouse and Dux Live has opened as a music venue. Look forward to a combination of beers from the Dux de Lux microbrewery and local and overseas acts. From April 2012, rugby fans can watch Christchurch’s beloved Crusaders at their new home ground in Addington.

To the west in Sydenham, the Honeypot Café and Burgers & Beer are both popular refugees from the still-closed Central Business District (CBD), and we’ve also heard rumours of new restaurants and arthouse cinemas opening up nearby. Across in Addington, the buzz is about the planned redevelopment of the Wood’s Mill heritage building as a hip bar and restaurant precinct.

Shipping container chic

Pop-up shipping-container shopping centre in Cashel St. Image by Brett Atkinson.

Who knew there were so many uses for a shipping container? While the city’s rebuild is carefully planned, the humble container has emerged as a funky option to kick-start Christchurch’s retail and hospitality sectors.

Bringing commercial life back to the fringe of the CBD, the RE:Start development showcases almost 30 retailers in a colourful labyrinth on Cashel Mall. Iconic Christchurch shops like Scorpio Books and Johnson’s Grocery have been joined by New Zealand’s best designers; free wi-fi and robust coffee from alfresco cafes are other essential distractions.

Later at night the shipping container action shifts to bars like Revival – complete with its own Middle Eastern food truck – and Cargo in Addington. Elsewhere in a rapidly changing city, you might see containers being used as hip street corner Thai restaurants or funky Japanese noodle bars.

Christchurch’s new social hubs

While the beleaguered CBD remains shuttered behind the Red Zone cordon, other establishments are emerging as essential socialising hubs for Christchurch locals. For the best coffee in town, head to the Addington Coffee Co-op or the cool Black Betty perched on the edge of High St, the city’s former hip shopping precinct. More grungy is the bohemian Beat Street Café at 324 Barbadoes St, and for the city’s best brunch grab an alfresco table at Under the Red Veranda.

For a stronger tipple, head to Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn, a hoppy shrine to NZ’s great craft beer scene (and home to Christchurch’s best pub food), or make the short trek to Woolston and the Cassels & Sons Brewery. For cocktails, wine and tapas, the Volstead Trading Company and The Monday Room are both popular recent additions to the Christchurch bar scene.

Best eating

Some of Christchurch’s pre-earthquake restaurants have relocated to suburbs around the fringe of the CBD, but many are frozen in time awaiting the rebuild. The Bodhi Tree, NZ’s only Burmese restaurant, has reopened in Fendalton, and Chinwag Eathai fills a buzzy space with innovative Thai food and potent cocktails. Surrounding Victoria St is one of Christchurch’s emerging ‘eat streets’, with an expanding range of bars and restaurants.

Equally tasty, but more virtuous is the vegetarian and Indian-influenced food at The Lotus Heart, now relocated from Cathedral Square.

Other essential Christchurch foodie destinations include the Christchurch Farmers’ Market, held Saturday mornings year round, and on Wednesday evenings from November to April (you’ll find the friendly Simo – of Simo’s Deli – dishing up traditional Moroccan flavours at the weekly market). Another excellent farmers’ market is in the historic suburb of Lyttelton, badly damaged in the earthquakes, but now bouncing back with remarkable community spirit. Don’t miss playing a few ends at the Lyttelton Petanque Club, a development from the Gap Filler Charitable Trust, a community initiative that’s reinvigorating derelict spaces around Christchurch. Another Gap Filler project, the Think Differently Book Exchange, sits on the corner of Barbadoes and Kilmore Streets on the edge of the CBD. Just look for the retro fridge crammed with assorted tomes available to swap.

Is it a fridge? Is it a book shelf? The Think Differently Book Exchange is both. Image by Brett Atkinson.

Where to celebrate Christchurch’s historic charm

While much of the city’s heritage architecture has been damaged by earthquakes, Christchurch’s traditional English ambience is still in evidence. Local students punt visitors languidly along the slow-moving Avon River, and the Botanic Gardens and Hagley Park remain some of NZ’s most impressive public spaces.

Near Christchurch’s historic Arts Centre, the Canterbury Museum is a fine showcase of NZ’s indigenous Maori culture; other highlights include an exhibition about Christchurch’s important historical role in the exploration of Antarctica.

Keeping up to date

Christchurch is already changing more rapidly than any other city in New Zealand, and the pace of change and rebuilding is only going to increase. Here’s our pick of the best online resources to maximise a visit to the city:

Pop Up City: Canterbury & Christchurch Tourism’s regular blog detailing new openings around the city. Also check out their main site for information updates.
Christchurch Music: The definitive guide to the local music scene. Key venues include Dux Live, the Darkroom and The Brewery.
CERA: The Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority publishes a handy map detailing road closures and the extent of the security cordon around Christchurch’s CBD. It’s currently projected the city centre will re-open around April-May 2012 but this timing is dependent on how quickly damaged high-rise buildings can be safely demolished. Click here for the detailed plan to rebuild Christchurch’s CBD.
Neat Places: A local blogger’s authoritative view of the best of Christchurch’s shopping, eating and drinking.
Thorn Tree Christchurch updates: Chat with other travellers about what to see in Christchurch.

Author Brett Atkinson has been all over the globe for Lonely Planet.

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Comments

10 January 2012 5:01PM rachel_a Report this comment
Thanks for an awesome update Brett. I'm a proud Cantabrian and resident of the new SoMo. Christchurch is a great place to live and I'd love have more people visiting the city (and helping our economy!)
10 January 2012 9:36PM arm80 Report this comment
Great article. I left Chch a year before the first quake and visited last week. While it's humbling to see the extent of damage in the eastern suburbs and Port Hills, Christchurch is still a friendly, fun city with so much going for it. Thanks for reminding people it's still a fantastic place to visit!
11 January 2012 5:13AM nhnz Report this comment
There is also a nice pub on Oxford Terrace near the hospital that is still open. Closest pub to the CBD. Its called the Pegasus Arms. Highly recommended!
11 January 2012 6:22AM alciata Report this comment
While the Gloucester St Central Library (with its free wifi and desktop Internet) is closed, Christchurch City Libraries have opened in two new "central" locations, in the South City Mall on Colombo St and on Peterborough Street (in the block west of Colombo). Free wifi and desktop Internet are available in both locations. Only a few of the suburban community libraries are still closed.
11 January 2012 6:43AM birdwatcher13 Report this comment
Head out to the New Brighton and the beach. The roads are a bit damaged but once you get there its worth it. Long sandy beach, cool library and pier. Free wifi at the library and comfy seats to look out at the surf.http://christchurchcitylibraries.com/NewBrighton/ Good coffee from Switch cafe http://www.switchespresso.co.nz/ Check out Peter Donnelly the sand artist http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/featured/sand-art-beaches/11238
11 January 2012 6:59AM angelat211 Report this comment
Used to live in Christchurch for many years and still miss it. Went back last September and loved it. Was heart-broken by the damage done but could not get over the fortitude of the people. They are so friendly and could teach Londoners how to behave and give good service. Every coffee shop has amazing coffee and cakes. It is still a beautiful city and well worth a visit. I didn't want to leave.
11 January 2012 7:22AM whare Report this comment
Dont forget to check in at whare, www.whare.net.nz After both shop were destoryed in the Feb quakes, Whare now have two temp shops, one in Somo on Lincoln Road and the other in their garage at 18 Birdwood Ave in Beckenham Christchurch. Whare for New Zealand made homewares and fine international brands like Alessi. www.whare.net.nz or phone 03 3329870
11 January 2012 7:49AM jomaraburrows Report this comment
Thankyou for your wonderfully positive report on Christchurch. I have lived here all my life and not even having to live through nearly 10,000 aftershocks would make me leave. It is true that the ingenuity of Cantabrians is second to none and the food and beverege side of life here is well and truly alive and vibrant. I just want to remind people that we still have miles and miles of beautiful coastland to enjoy. Why not pack a picnic , pack your sunblock and sunglasses and head off to the beach for an afternoon of pure relaxation.
11 January 2012 9:00AM moirafrasernz Report this comment
Thank you for this positive article. We have spent the last year visiting Christchurch a lot to take photos for the documentary record of how it is changing. We post them to our facebook page www.facebook.com/chch.eq.photos. We posted the link to this article there and got such positive comments I was motivated to pop over here and say thank you. We are moving to CHristchurch because it is so dynamic and interesting and the way the people have responded to adversity is amazing.
11 January 2012 9:55AM graay Report this comment
We recently took a 2hr Tour with Christchurch Segway Tours, and can highly recommend. The meeting point for the tour is only 2 minutes walk from Addington (SOMO) in South Hagley Park. Google them to arrange a tour.
11 January 2012 10:11AM katebaker01 Report this comment
Great article! To experience punting, kayaking, paddle boats and row boats on Avon River come visit the ANTIGUA BOATSHEDS at 2 Cambridge Terrace just down from the museum and opposite the hospital. They also offer bike tours with a map of where iconic buildings of Christchurch once stood - a great way to see and experience the city visit - http://www.boatsheds.co.nz/
11 January 2012 10:32AM debinz Report this comment
Great article! Don't forget Willowbank Wildlife Reserve www.willowbank.co.nz - great place to take your kids. Black Cat Cruises in Akaroa are open for dolphin swimming and nature cruises www.blackcat.co.nz
11 January 2012 1:35PM kiwibeca Report this comment
Thanks so much for this Article Lonely Planet. We need all the help we can get to put our broken but still beautiful City back together, and exposure such as this is invaluable.
Emperorsclothes, regardless of whether you're posting you comment here or on "The Press's Article on this Story, you're an idiot.
I read the Article that acompanied the other Review you refered to, and opinion there was that the writer of that Review hadn't actually been to Christchurch recently, if at all, and was basing their view on information from third party sources. Not exactly the best aproach for a Review of an International Travel destination.(!)
What do you base your opinion of the performance of the ReStart Mall and Ballantynes anyway?
11 January 2012 3:02PM chizuknz Report this comment
This kind of article and publicity is exactly what Chch needs. Thank you Lonely Planet!!
I have recently moved from the UK to Christchurch and encourage everyone I can to come and see the beautiful, green, friendly city that it is. Sure, the city is suffering but WOW how it's bouncing back. Exciting times ahead.
11 January 2012 3:55PM thefunkysocksgirl Report this comment
Great positive article. Moved here from the UK early last year and am still here despite the shakes. There is still so much to do and so much more still to happen. Would love to have visitors! Think of the ongoing aftershocks as free adrenalin buzzes - cheaper than sky-dives ;-) Everything else is just going to carry on getting better.
11 January 2012 5:51PM cantabman Report this comment
Dont forget South of Moorhouse in Sydenham we have the Colombo and its excellent contemporary style shops and excellent food and coffee at Underground Coffee.
11 January 2012 7:13PM cudby Report this comment
Thank you Lonely Planet for this inspiring review of Christchurch. This is a much more thought-out review, with better detail of locations than the one that emperorsclothes refers to - I actually wrote a complaint to the operators of the website that article appeared in as the whole article - not just the piece about Christchurch - was incredibly misleading and partially inaccurate. I left Canterbury at the end of last year and it's nice to hear about all the excellent developments in the city. As the city gets rebuilt I have no doubt it's only going to get better.
12 January 2012 10:12AM smileytel Report this comment
Excellent work Lonely Planet. Very much of what has always been lovely about Christchurch remains, and it remains a destination worthy of a stay. One or two things not mentioned: If you don't have your own vehicle, there is a temporary central city bus terminal very near the RE:Start container shopping area mentioned above. Most city bus routes are now getting back to normal. It is well-worthwhile making the trip out to Sumner, a lovely beach suburb on the city's edge - it has a number of cafes and restaurants including old favourites such as Scarborough Fare, Dot Com, Coffee Culture and Indian Sumner. It even has its own movie theatre, the Hollywood. It's a bumpy road getting out there at present, you can get bus number 3.
12 January 2012 1:37PM nzfrenchy Report this comment
If you are looking fora bit of adrenalin then definately visit Adrenalin Forest in Christchurch. Situated 10mins north of Christchurch its best described as a multi level aerial course. Reaching heights of 20 metres off the ground with 6 differant pathways, its a great way to spend 3 hours. Flying foxes, monkey bridges, swings and w hole bunch more activities the course will get your blood pumping and leave you with a massive grin! Awesome entertainment for the entire family! shameless pluggin i know but it is seriously one of the best activites to do in Christchurch. Check it out at adrenalin-forest.co.nz
12 January 2012 5:31PM judyrogers Report this comment
Very pleased to see this article, thanks Lonely Planet! I'm very happy to stay living in the Graden City and taking the opportunity to say: Everyone warmly invited to come and see, and walk into, my large painted sculpture HEART IS WHERE THE HOME IS on the Gap Filler site that also has the Think Differently Book Exchange - corner of Barbadoes and Kilmore Streets - Sat 21st Jan 2012 or, if too wet or windy that day, following Sat 28th. Another opportunity is in the Botanic Gardens near the restaurant Sun 19th Feb [postponement 26th]. Both events 10am to 4pm. See you there! Judy Rogers
12 January 2012 7:37PM kiwishell1 Report this comment
What a lift this article has been for the people in Christchurch - thank you for such a positive article. My hubby has been drawing some of Christchurch's historic landmarks and cityscapes, for a reminder of what used to be you can view them at: www.dibblesart.co.nz I will definitely be sharing this link.
16 January 2012 7:49AM muylocajeweller Report this comment
IThere are some fabulous "hidden" gems as well.Mercato on Fitzgerald Ave makes the BEST coffee dusted with Verona Chocolate,the Mediterranean Warehouse-fab Italian pizza and food for lunch!And a little plug for myself-3 blocks from the Cordone you can come and view fabulous handcrafted contemporary jewellery at my home studio,just call first. www.debrafallowfield.com
20 January 2012 8:41AM kiwitravelwriter Report this comment
Some good info hered .. as an inner city living Chch gal I can vouch for many if not all of these comments .. see more about chch on one of my blogs kiwitravelwriter.wordpress.com ( i was out taking photos at 720 after the first quake sept 4th 435am)
live in Wellington now (not a quake related move)but down in chch every month .. next trip next week:) :)
20 January 2012 11:20AM uktravellers Report this comment
We took the guided bike tour in Christchurch last week - loved it and would highly recommend. We only had half a day to check out the city before our flight but we seemed to cover a lot on the tour so it was perfect for us, it was two-hours but very easy bicycling. The guide even stopped off at the pop up city so we could have a quick shop! We booked the tour through the i-site but you can call them directly on 0800 733 257. Enjoy!
21 January 2012 1:57PM juanitanz Report this comment
Wow, this makes me feel very optimistic about the future of Christchurch. I too live in SoMo and hope that we can rebuild a special place that people will love to visit. It's crazy seeing all the buildings being torn down, but exciting at the same time. When you come here, you're helping us get back on our feet. Even for locals it feels like we're just getting to know the city again, familiar landmarks are gone, restaurants and bars have moved, and we're all discovering new places all the time.
25 January 2012 11:41AM sheraleemacd Report this comment
Thanks for this and the free download chapter on Chch you released today! We really welcome all the tourists that come here :) The Riccarton Rotary Market (146 Racecourse Rd, Sundays 9am - 2pm http://www.riccartonmarket.co.nz/) is another great spot to check out for shopping, food and entertainment. It's a bit further out west, but well worth the trip I reckon, especially on a sunny day - lots of locals go there.
7 February 2012 11:48AM kroneg Report this comment
Excellent! I'm a former resident of ChCh too and steeled myself for a visit last December. It was heart breaking but also exciting to see the new birth of a new positive vibe. I recommend doing the little walk from Cashel Mall into the Cathedral Square quake zone for an up close and terrifying feel of what has gone down. Weekends only.