Sights in Auckland
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Kelly Tarlton's
In the Underwater World, sharks and stingrays swim around and over you as you're shunted on a conveyor belt through transparent tunnels in what were once stormwater and sewage holding tanks. If you want to get even closer, you can enter the tanks in a shark cage ($79; 12.30pm, 1.30pm and 3pm), and if that doesn't sound terrifying enough, you can dive directly into the tanks ($129; 10am).
In a post Happy Feet world, Kelly Tarlton's biggest attraction is the permanent winter wonderland known as Antarctic Encounter. It includes a walk through a replica of Scott’s 1911 Antarctic hut, and a ride aboard a heated snowcat through a frozen environment where a colony of king…
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Auckland Art Gallery
Reopened in 2011 after a $121-million refurbishment, Auckland's premier art repository now has a gorgeous glass-and-wood atrium grafted onto its already impressive 1887 French chateau frame. It's a worthy receptacle for important works by the likes of Pieter Bruegel the Younger, Guido Reni, Picasso, Cezanne, Gauguin and Matisse. It also showcases the best of NZ art: from the intimate 19th-century portraits of tattooed Maori subjects by Charles Goldie, to the text-scrawled canvasses of Colin McCahon, and beyond.
Free tours depart from the main entrance at 11.30am, 12.30pm and 1.30pm.
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One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie)
This volcanic cone was the isthmus’ key pa and the greatest fortress in the country. It’s easy to see why: a drive or walk to the top (182m) offers 360-degree views. At the summit is the grave of John Logan Campbell, who when gifting the land to the city in 1901 requested that a memorial (the imposing obelisk and statue above the grave) be built to the Maori people. Nearby is the stump of the last ‘one tree’.
Allow plenty of time to explore the craters and surrounding Cornwall Park, with its impressive mature trees and Acacia Cottage (1841), Auckland's oldest wooden building. The information centre has fascinating interactive displays illustrating what the pa would…
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Mt Eden (Maungawhau)
From the top of Auckland’s highest volcanic cone (196m) the entire isthmus and both harbours are laid bare. The symmetrical crater (50m deep) is known as Te Ipu Kai a Mataaho (the Food Bowl of Mataaho, the god of things hidden in the ground) and is highly tapu (sacred); do not enter it, but feel free to explore the remainder of the mountain. The remains of pa terraces and storage pits are clearly visible.
You can drive to the very top or you can join the legions of fitness freaks jogging or trudging up. Tour buses are banned from the summit, but shuttles will transport infirm passengers to the top from the car park on the lower slopes.
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Howick Historical Village
This fascinating 'living' museum will split visitors along 'Isn't it tacky/fascinating' lines, with its costumed staff evoking the atmosphere of Auckland in the turbulent pioneering era from the 1840s to the 1880s. There are over 30 buildings, many relocated here from other parts of the region.
The streets, the pond with ducks and geese, and the village gardens are faithful reconstructions of Victorian fashion, and there's a cafe with homemade goodies as well. There is a theme day on the third Sunday of each month, with special events and displays such as the blacksmith working at the forge, the 65th Regiment firing its muskets, and maybe even a chance to see the school…
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MOTAT
This trainspotter’s and technology boffin's paradise is spread over two sites and 19 hectares. In MOTAT 1 look out for Helen Clark’s Honda 50 motorbike and the cutesy pioneer village. MOTAT 2 is an aircraft graveyard, featuring rare military and commercial planes. The two sites are linked by a vintage tram (free with admission, $1 otherwise), which passes the park and zoo. It’s a fun kids’ ride whether you visit MOTAT or not.
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Civic Theatre
The 'mighty Civic' (1929) is one of seven ‘atmospheric theatres’ remaining in the world and a fine survivor from cinema’s Golden Age. The auditorium has lavish Moorish decoration and a starlit southern-hemisphere sky in the ceiling, complete with cloud projections. The foyer is an Indian indulgence, with elephants and monkeys hanging from every conceivable fixture. Buddhas were planned to decorate the street frontage but were considered too risqué at the time – they chose neoclassical naked boys instead!
If at all possible, try to attend a performance here. It’s mainly used for touring musicals, big premieres and Film Festival screenings.
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Voyager – New Zealand Maritime Museum
This well-presented museum traces NZ’s seafaring history from Maori voyaging canoes to the America’s Cup. Recreations include a tilting 19th-century steerage-class cabin and a fab 1950s beach store and bach (holiday home). Blue Water Black Magic is a tribute to Sir Peter Blake, the Whitbread-Round-the-World and America’s Cup–winning yachtsman who was murdered in 2001 while on an environmental monitoring trip on the Amazon.
Check the website for details of regular historic steam-tug and sailing-ship cruises.
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Auckland Domain
Covering about 80 hectares, this green swathe contains sports fields, interesting sculpture, formal gardens, wild corners and the Wintergarden, with its fernery, tropical house, cool house, cute cat statue and neighbouring cafe. The mound in the centre of the park is all that remains of Pukekaroa, one of Auckland’s volcanoes. At its humble peak, a totara surrounded by a palisade honours the first Maori king.
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Auckland Museum
Dominating the Domain is this imposing neo-classical temple (1929), capped with an impressive copper-and-glass dome (2007). Its comprehensive display of Pacific Island and Maori artefacts on the ground floor deserves to be on your ‘must see’ list. Highlights include a 25m war canoe and an extant carved meeting house (remove your shoes before entering). There's also an Egyptian mummy (a sure-fire hit with the kids) and a fascinating display on the volcanic field, including an eruption simulation.
The upper floors are given over to military displays, fulfilling the building's dual role as a war memorial. Auckland's main ANZAC commemorations take place at dawn on 25th of…
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Artspace
The plain white walls and concrete floors of this public gallery come to life with an open field of art practices, including sculpture, photography, the moving image and sound art. Artspace exhibits many of New Zealand's leading contemporary artists and promotes a cultural dialogue, both locally and internationally, through speaking programmes and publications.
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Auckland Zoo
At this modern, spacious zoo, the big foreigners tend to steal the attention from the timid natives, but if you can wrestle the kids away from the tigers and orang-utans, there's a well-presented NZ section. Called Te Wao Nui, it's divided into six ecological zones: Coast (seals, penguins), Islands (mainly lizards, including NZ's pint-sized dinosaur, the tuatara), Wetlands (ducks, herons, eels), Night (kiwi, naturally, along with frogs, native owls and weta), Forest (birds) and High Country (cheekier birds and lizards).
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Auckland Botanic Gardens
This 64-hectare park has over 10,000 plants (including threatened species), dozens of themed gardens and an infestation of wedding parties. By car, take the Southern Motorway, exit at Manurewa and follow the signs. Otherwise take the train to Manurewa ($5.70, 40 minutes) and then walk along Hill Rd (1.5km).
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Kinder House
Built of volcanic stone, this 1857 home displays the subtle but skilful watercolours and memorabilia of the Reverend Dr John Kinder (1819–1903), who was the headmaster of the Church of England Grammar School.
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Stevenson Discovery Centres
The museum's dedicated children's galleries are hands down the best hands-on learning centres. The Weird & Wonderful gallery has drawers full of spiders, jars full of fish and atriums of scurrying cockroaches, plus microscopes and dress ups a plenty. Treasures & Tales provides insights into everything from woodwork to music.
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Waikumete Cemetery
The country's largest cemetery is a fascinating historical record, including numerous heritage buildings, plus a South African wildflower sanctuary. Don't miss the Corban family mausoleum (they of Corban Wines, once one of NZ's largest and most successful wineries). Guided walks are available on the first Sunday of each month.
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John Leech Gallery
At over 150 years old, John Leech Gallery was among the city's first commercial galleries. Considering its own historical standing, it's little surprise that historic works comprise part of its collection, representing NZ's most influential, controversial and coveted artists (the likes of Charles Goldie and Theo Schoon).
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University Clock Tower
The University Clock Tower is Auckland's architectural triumph. The stately ‘ivory' tower (1926) tips its hat towards Art Nouveau (the incorporation of NZ flora and fauna into the decoration) and the Chicago School (the way it's rooted into the earth). It's usually open, so wander inside.
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Artstation
The public gallery of this community arts centre provides a professional space for emerging artists to exhibit their work. Shows turn over every three weeks, and might include contemporary Polynesian themes or those of the modern Goth. If you find the gallery locked, ask the office downstairs for the key.
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North Head
North Head was a Maori pa and is still a fortress of sorts, with the navy maintaining a presence. It's riddled with tunnels; started at the end of the 19th century in response to the Russian threat and they were extended during WWI and WWII.
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Parnell Rose Gardens
These formal gardens are blooming excellent from November to March. A stroll through the park leads to peaceful Judges Bay and tiny St Stephen’s Chapel, built for the signing of the constitution of NZ’s Anglican Church (1857).
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Sky Tower
The impossible-to-miss Sky Tower looks like a giant hypodermic giving a fix to the heavens. Spectacular lighting renders it space-age at night and the colours change for special events. At 328m it is the tallest structure in the southern hemisphere. A lift takes you up to the observation decks in 40 stomach-lurching seconds; look down through the glass floor panels if you’re after an extra kick. It costs $3 extra to catch the skyway lift to the ultimate viewing level. Late afternoon is a good time to go up: you can sip a beverage in the Sky Lounge as the sun sets. Sky Tower is also home to the SkyWalk and SkyJump. The tower is the best part of the SkyCity complex, a…
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Rainbow’s End
It's a bit lame by international standards but Rainbow's End has enough rides (including a corkscrew rollercoaster) to keep the kids happy all day, plus plenty of sugary snacks to fuel it all. Admission includes unlimited rides.
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St Patrick’s Cathedral
Auckland’s Catholic cathedral is one of its loveliest buildings. Polished wood and Belgian stained glass lend warmth to the interior of this majestic Gothic Revival church (1907). There’s a historical display in the old confessional on the left-hand side.
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Mt Victoria
Mt Victoria was a Maori pa and is still a fortress of sorts, with the navy maintaining a presence.
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