If Mérida’s heat has you dying for a quick beach fix, or if you want to see the longest wharf (7km) in Mexico, head to Progreso (also known as Puerto Progreso). The beach is fine, well groomed and long. However, except for the small palapas erected by restaurants, it’s nearly shadeless and is dominated by the view of the wharf, giving it a rather industrial feel. Winds can hit here full force off the Gulf in the afternoon and can blow well into the night, which makes for good kitesurfing. As with other Gulf beaches, the water is murky; visibility even on calm days rarely exceeds 5m. None of this stops méridanos from coming in droves on weekends, especially in summer. Even on spring weekdays it can be difficult to find a room with a view. Once or twice a week the streets flood with cruise-ship tourists, but the place can feel empty on off nights, which makes a refreshing change.