Things to do in Monterrey
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Fonda San Francisco
A bit away from the center in the suburb of San Pedro, this restaurant is unique. Most of the recipes in this inviting little bistro, which is patronized by the chic upper crust, are inspired by pre-Hispanic cooking. English-speaking chef Adrian Herrera will guide you through the menu, which is ripe with delights like molito de hongos (mushroom mole with chicken) and pavo en pipián de cacao (turkey with pumpkin-seed and chocolate sauce). It’s located just south of Avenida Vasconcelos; if you take bus 130 get off by the Super Roma. A taxi is M$60 to M$70.
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Museo Regional de Nuevo León
The Obispado, a former bishopric palace on a hill 2.5km west of the Zona Rosa, gives fine views of the city and surrounding mountains, smog permitting. Initiated in 1787 on the orders of the bishop of Linares, the building has an intricate yellow Churrigueresque facade. Now it houses the small Museo Regional de Nuevo León that most people will find less intriguing than the views.
No buses come here, but bus 4 heading west along Padre Mier turns left at 20 de Noviembre; from where it's a 10- or 15-minute uphill walk - head to the end of the road, up the stairs, turn left then take the first right. It's easier going back; just take any 'Centro' bus down Hidalgo.
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Parque Ecológico Chipinque
Stretched along a mountainside with a knife-like ridge at the south edge of the city, this park is the most accessible section of the Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, offering urbanites ample opportunities for hiking and mountain biking. You’ll be quite amazed that such a fantastic, well-maintained nature park is so near the city. The 36km of trails are lovely, and it doesn’t take long to get into some pretty dense pine and oak forest. Butterflies are particularly prolific here, with 174 species represented. Rappelling and ‘mini-bungee’ jumping are also offered.
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Cervecería Cuauhtémoc
Brought to you by the maker of Bohemia, Dos Equis and Tecate beer, this complex in the gardens of the old Cuauhtémoc Brewery now features a baseball hall of fame and brewery tours (with free beer). This is the oldest brewery in Mexico (established in 1890) and there's a very pleasant outdoor garden, which is a nice place to sit even if you don't partake of the free mug of Carta Blanca.
In the same complex, the Salón de la Fama has photos, memorabilia, facts and figures on Mexican baseball. You can even test your throwing arm and batting skills - albeit with a Wiffle ball.
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Museo del Vidrio
At the back of the Vitro bottle factory (enter from Zaragoza), which has many glass walls so you can watch production, the wonderful Museo de Vidrio focuses on the history, manufacturing and especially the artistic use of glass. The main museum has a bunch of old household objects and a reproduction of a 19th-century stained-glass workshop. The gallery hosts phenomenal temporary exhibitions of glass art in a restored warehouse and has artist workshops attached.
You can buy some of the work in the gallery shop. Call ahead to schedule a tour in English.
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Barrio Antiguo
The most atmospheric part of town, the Barrio Antiguo has cobbled streets and fine colonial houses, many of which have been converted into cafés, restaurants and art galleries. Avenida Constitución to the south and east, Dr Coss to the west and Padre Mier in the north form its historic boundaries (note the old-style street lights and lack of electricity wires), though its vibe extends a few blocks further north. On Thursday, Friday and especially Saturday nights it becomes a major party zone with an excellent assortment of bars and clubs.
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El Infinito
Highly enjoyable culture café set inside colonial premises with gorgeous tiled floors, high beamed ceilings and walls adorned with art. Musically, things are kept tranquil with ambient and classical music on the hi-fi and Friday-night live jazz on the rooftop terrace (called the Aire Bar). It offers high-priced sandwiches, cheese plates, pizzas, fruit frappés, mango martinis and properly made espresso. There are books to browse and occasional art-house movies. Ask Pepe, the amiable owner, about his desert tours.
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Cuauhtémoc Brewery
The Cuauhtémoc brewery, the oldest brewery in Mexico (established in 1890), fills six million bottles of Bohemia, Dos Equis and Tecate and other beers every day. Free brewery tours are given more or less hourly. Reservations are recommended (especially if you’d like a tour in English), but you can just show up and see if there’s space. Tours start in front of the pleasant outdoor beer garden where you might get a free mug of Carta Blanca.
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Macroplaza
A monument to Monterrey’s ambition, this city-block-wide series of interconnected squares, also known as the Macroplaza, was created in the 1980s by the demolition of a prime chunk of city-center real estate. A controversial, but ultimately successful, piece of redevelopment, its charm has increased over the years as once-naked urban space has been softened by parks, trees, fountains and pools, though it still feels like several parks rather than one.
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Centro Cultural Alfa
The Centro Cultural Alfa is 7km south of the city center. Sponsored by the Alfa industrial group, its striking museum building looks like a wonky water tank. Most floors are devoted to science and technology exhibits, but there are also superb Mexican antiquities hidden away on the 5th floor. All are labeled in Spanish. In the center of the building is an IMAX cinema.
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Museo del Noreste
Technically it's a separate institution from the Museo de Historia Mexicana, but practically speaking its galleries on the culture and history of Nuevo León, Tamaulipas, Coahuila and Texas, packed with video screens and artifacts, function as a new wing of the history museum with one ticket working for both. Begin on the bottom floor to follow the displays chronologically.
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Horno3
Blast Furnace No 3, which feels like it could start up production again any time, has been converted into Horno3, a high-tech, hands-on museum of steel and Mexico’s steel industry. Don’t miss the overly dramatic furnace show. Also you can do nocturnal climbs of the metal tower (closed if raining). Last tickets are sold one hour before closing.
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Gran Plaza
A grandiose monument to Monterrey's ambition, this series of interconnected squares was created in the 1980s and its charm has increased over the years as once-naked urban space has been softened by parks, trees, fountains and pools. The Gran Plaza is lined with classically designed municipal buildings and cutting-edge modern structures housing some of Mexico's finest museums.
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Parque Fundidora
Formerly a vast steel-factory complex, this once-blighted industrial zone has been transformed into a huge urban park that encompasses a variety of attractions, including many that will appeal to children. Cleverly, the park designers retained rusting smoke stacks and other industrial relics, giving a postmodern, apocalyptic feel to parts of the place.
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Parque Niños Héroes
Parque Niños Héroes, about 5km north of the center, has several family-friendly attractions. Tops is the Museo de la Fauna y Ciencias Naturales with stuffed wildlife in dioramas of natural habitats from Saharan Africa to the Arctic. The park also holds a small aviary, a smaller aquarium and two buildings full of old cars comprising the Museo de Autos.
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Akbal Lounge
Enter this opium den–style mélange of red velvet, chandeliers and giant antique mirrors through La Casa de Maíz. Sip a cocktail and lose yourself in the mood music – ambient and lounge sounds during the week, revving up to sexy electro and deep house at weekends – or stargaze on the groovy deck. Sunday night is gay night, but every night is gay friendly.
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Casa De La Cultura De Nuevo León
The lovely 1891 Gulf Line railroad station now houses twin museums and a stage that regularly hosts dance, theater and arthouse films. The biggest display, appropriately enough, is a so-so train museum while the small art museum has temporary displays that are usually good enough to warrant a stop on your way to or from the nearby Museo Del Vidrio.
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Museo de Historia Mexicana
The sleek modernist, Museo de Historia Mexicana, which presents an extensive but easily manageable chronology of Mexican history. There’s also an Earth section full of mounted animals and realistic-looking plants at its heart. All explanations are in Spanish only, but English tours can be arranged by phoning in advance.
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Facing the southeast corner of Plaza Zaragoza is the terrific Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, its entrance marked by Juan Soriano’s gigantic black dove sculpture. Inside, its idiosyncratic spaces are filled with water and light and major temporary exhibitions. Call in advance and you can get a tour in English.
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Museo Metropolitano de Monterrey
Facing the Catedral Metropolitano de Monterrey is the 19th-century Palacio Municipal, which now houses the Museo Metropolitano de Monterrey. There’s a brief, Spanish-only summary of city history on the ground floor and lovely upstairs galleries featuring the work of contemporary painters and sculptors.
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Pinacoteca de Nuevo León
This art museum, in the gorgeous Colegio Civil building, has gathered paintings and sculptures from most of the state’s leading contemporary artists, including Julio Galán (1958–2006), once part of Andy Warhol’s circle, while the temporary exhibitions come from the rest of Mexico and beyond.
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Luisiana
Tuxedoed waiters and all the trappings of high-end dining are available at this classic. The meat and seafood menu is a mix of old and new, Mexican and Continental, with choices like cabrito, beef stroganoff, Indian curried shrimp and pato al hono al'orange (duck a la orange).
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Novum
Walking into this slick, yet cozy, Argentine restaurant in Barrio Antiguo, prepare to pick a bottle of wine from the cellar, eat scrumptious pizza, or dig into a hunk of Argentine beef. It’s an excellent place to get romántico or to laugh around a table with rambunctious friends.
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Bar 1900
An elegant and historic bar fronting Zona Rosa’s Radisson Plaza Gran Hotel Ancira that, except for the big-screen TV, maintains much of its old-time ambience. Guitarists sing classic norteño tunes most nights, and there’s a particularly good selection of whiskey and tequila.
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La Zanahoria
Simple little vegetarian place run by yoga fanatics serving food like beregena gratinada (eggplant baked with breadcrumbs and tomato and cheese) and mock-meat milanesa (thin slices breaded and fried). All dishes include wholemeal bread, soup, salad and a drink.
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