Senegal
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Travel Tips
I stayed in budget hotels with an occasional visit to a mid-range hotel. Rooms provided a fan, bathroom within walking distance, some sort of closet and a mosquito net. The net was often so heavy that it blocked air circulation. Mattresses were adequate, though there was rarely anything other than a top sheet. The biggest hassle was the lack of light. Reading or writing letters was almost impossible. Even hotels with their own bars or restaurants were very dark. A portable reading lamp was very useful. On the up side, rooms were always clean and the staff were friendly and helpful. Showers were limited to tepid water, which was adequate. Shaving was a bit difficult, however. Even the most basic campements provided bedding and a net, sometimes without holes. Some were quite luxurious with air conditioning and private bath. There is little reason for backpackers to carry any equipment other than a portable reading light.
Before you take on any park tours, stop by the tourist offices for the latest information. They will inform you what birds are visible and where. They will also recommend guides and transport. Unfortunately, hotel recommended tours and guides leave lots to be desired. I suspect that the hotels get a good kickback. Without the wildlife, you're looking at the scenery which can be done cheaper with public transport.
Robert Patterson, USA (Mar 03)
I found Dakar an enjoyable city and not half as dangerous as some people tried to make me believe. Just avoid walking around on your own after sunset; take a taxi or, if you walk at night, ask one or two Senegalese to accompany you. During the day the centre of Dakar is more than manageable, provided you do not start flashing around large amounts of money, cameras with huge lenses and the like. Always walk around as if you know where you are going (even if you do not) and do not start reading maps (and looking as if you are lost) in the middle of Place de l'Indépendance or Av. Pompidou or so. If being hassled, three times "non merci" and a smile usually does the trick. Dakar is a great city: there is a lot to do and you can easily spend days/weeks there without getting bored.
There is no bank in Ndangane and Senegalese often ask tourists to change euro coins (which they get from other tourists) into CFA francs. When I was in Ndangane, one week before Tabaski or the Muslim Feast of Sacrifice, Senegalese wanted to change euro into CFA francs even more, as every family needed to buy a sheep. The alternative is a time-consuming and relatively costly trip to Mbour to go to the bank. However, several other tourists, apparently not being able to put themselves in the place of the Senegalese for a moment, simply refused to change even small amounts like 5 euro into CFA francs, so I ended up changing 20 euro into CFA francs. The Senegalese even calculated the exchange rate in such a way, that I made a 2% profit (the commission the bank normally takes). I mean, what is changing 5 euro into CFA francs? But to most Senegalese in Ndangane it means saving a lot of time and money on a trip to the bank in Mbour.
Anthony De Lannoy, Belgium (Mar 03)
We were totally unprepared for the incredibly primitive state of conditions in the encampments in Cassamance. We were expecting very simple conditions but either in an interesting setting or at least with some air or light. We stayed in one, at Enampor and found it to be almost uninhabitable. We slept in little cave like structures in the side of a large hut with mice running around. We were later told that the Cassamancians have almost given up on the encampments given the political difficulties in the region. This is an understatement. We spent one night there and then did not seek out any others.
Janet Sullivan & Armand Pierro, (Feb 02)
Important advice for birdwatchers. On the road from Kouhgheul to Payar to Velingara to Linguere you will see all the birds you did not see so far in Gambia and on the Senegal coast. It is unbelievable that this area is not yet discovered by birdwatchers. The road is a sandy one but you can do it with a two-wheel drive like we did. If you take water you can do it on foot in three or four days. Locals are very friendly and will offer you a place to stay and food. Every 10 to 15 kms you will find a village on this road. The landscape was of extreme beauty.
Izak Goedblued, Netherlands, (Jan 02)
Moving About
The train from Dakar to Bamako is no longer operational in either direction. There is a service to Tambacounda but that is the end of the line.
igel Canavan, UK (May 03)
Getting to/from Senegal by road to/from The Gambia. 7-seater Peugeot taxis and bush taxis all now go from/to Amdalai border post and not from/to Barra. One must then take another vehicle the rest of the way! Bit of a nuisance but with practice it gets easier! It is 15 Dalasi from Barra to Amdalai by taxi and vice versa. Alternatively GPTC bus from Barra is cheap but they overbook the seats so one can end up having to stand!
Mary Buchalter (Aug 01)
Scams & Warnings
Happy to be back in Africa, this time I visited Senegal and the Gambia. I stayed in Dakar, Banjul, Bakau, travelling by taxi brousse, bus and plane. I used LP West Africa - I never left without it. 'Dangers in Dakar' indeed. I found it to be the least enjoyable city I've visited in Africa so far (though I've been through Lagos and Johannesburg, too). It was unsafe. Most notably I found the guys selling armbands. They have only one to sell, carry it on a piece of paper and offer it at a very low price. In the meanwhile, with their other hand under the paper, they pick your pocket. These guys are all over the place in Dakar, and most of all at the Place de l'Independance. Be very careful. I've never had a problem in Africa before, but here they tried to rob me at Avenue Pompidou. I made a lot of noise and soon bystanders came to help me - the proof that most Africans welcome tourists - but it left me feeling shaken and uncomfortable. I didn't have other problems, but I just found the street sellers a bit too aggressive, and taxi drivers too greedy. I soon took a bush taxi to the Gambia and it was a relief. People were much more laid back (and as it says in the guide, the grass is very cheap...), and I had a great time. I could advise anyone travelling to Africa for the first time, to go to Gambia.
Filip Bogaert (Aug 01)
A scam we came across in Dakar was a friendly man claiming that he had a newborn son after his wife was barren for 4 years and needed by tradition to offer a gift to a stranger and handed me a small golden trinket. He then wanted us to contribute money for the naming ceremony. When we politely declined and returned the trinket, he just smiled and went to try his luck elsewhere. Nothing aggressive, but then again, I had unpacked my French and my Mandinka and smelled a rat fairly early in the game and just went along to see what he would tell me.
Nadine Allal, UK (May 01)
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