The most popular park in Kenya after the Masai Mara is Amboseli (045-622251; adult/child US$30/10, smartcard required), mainly because elephants grazing with a backdrop of Mt Kilimanjaro make what is probably the definitive Kenyan wildlife shot.
Tortilis Camp (020-604053; www.chelipeacock.com; full board s/d US$400/640) is a wonderfully conceived site, and one of the most exclusive ecolodges in Kenya, commanding a superb spot with perfect Kilimanjaro vistas. Prices include transfers, guided walks, cultural visits, laundry and most drinks, but not park fees or fancy wine. Ol Tukai Lodge (020-4445514; email@example.com; full board s/d US$200/280; ) is a splendid lodge with soaring makuti (thatched palm leaf) roofs and tranquil shaded gardens. The split-level bar has wonderful views, and the overall atmosphere is of peace and luxury. Two of the cottages have wheelchair access.
The only way to see Amboseli is by private vehicle (preferably 4WD) or on an organised safari.