A soaring replica of Nihonbashi (Tokyo's first bridge, still alive and kickin' in its namesake neighbourhood, though hardly noticeable due to its unfortunate position under a concrete highway) immediately sets the tone at this larger-than-life homage to bygone eras. Carefully crafted exhibits document heaps of fascinating facts about life in Tokyo before it evolved into its modern avatar. Exhibits range from examples of actual Edo infrastructure – a wooden sewage pipe, for one – to exquisite scale models of markets and shops, including such meticulous details as period costumes and stray cats scavenging fish scraps. If you plan on having a thorough look around, figure around 90 minutes for the 'Edo Zone' and an additional hour for the 'Tokyo Zone'.

The museum really comes to life with the help of a volunteer guide (free) – available between 10am and 3pm on a first-come basis. You can usually grab a guide at 10am or at around 2pm when they return from their lunch break. Call ahead to double check that an English-speaking staff member will be present on the day you'd like to visit.