Things to do in Spoleto
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Osteria dell'Enoteca
Extremely fit waiters carry dishes up and down a curving iron staircase into this 12th-century tavern. Diners sit on dark wood benches under a high stone ceiling surrounded by rows and rows of local wines from which to choose. Dishes are typical of the area - strangozzi alla spoletina ('shoelace' pasta in a tomato, garlic and chilli sauce, truffle omelette - and priced to allow at least one or two meals while in town.
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Casa Romana (Roman House)
East of Piazza della Libertà, around the Piazza Fontana, are more Roman remains, including the Arco di Druso e Germanico (Arch of Drusus and Germanicus; sons of the Emperor Tiberius), which marked the grandiose entrance to the Roman forum. The excavated Casa Romana isn't Pompeii, but it gives visitors a peek into what a typical Roman house of the area would have looked like in the 1st century BC, and still has vestiges of mosaics and paintings.
The city boasts an Anfiteatro Romano (Roman Amphitheatre), one of the country's largest. Unfortunately it is within military barracks and closed to the public. Wander along Via dell'Anfiteatro, off Piazza Garibaldi, in search of a…
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Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral
The cathedral was consecrated way back in 1198, but later-day (17th century) remodelling included a striking Renaissance porch. In the 11th century, huge blocks of salvaged stones from Roman buildings were put to good use in the construction of its rather sombre belltower. Mosaic frescoes in the domed apse were executed by Filippo Lippi and his assistants. Lippi died before completing the work and Lorenzo de Medici travelled to Spoleto from Florence and ordered Lippi’s son, Filippino, to build a mausoleum for the artist. This now stands in the right transept of the cathedral.
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Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e Paolo
On Via Filitteria, you'll come across the tiny and ancient Chiesa dei SS Giovanni e Paolo, an example of a pre-Romanesque church, built with Roman ruins above an older church, and consecrated in 1174. If it's open, check out the earliest depiction of the Archbishop of Canterbury Sir Thomas Becket's martyrdom. If it's closed, you can still see the 13th-century fresco of Our Mary with Saints above the door.
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Apollinaire
California cuisine meets Umbrian tradition: somehow this restaurant manages to figure out that squid-ink pasta does go with pesto and crayfish, and rabbit feels quite at home in a black olive sauce. No matter what, save room for dessert. The menu changes seasonally but you are constantly enveloped in low wood-beamed ceilings and candlelight flickering against brick.
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L'Angolo Antico
In a neighbourhood restaurant just outside the main city is this family-run ristorante and pizzeria, with a few suits of armour thrown in for good measure. Nothing fancy on the menu, just good filling strangozzi alla spoletina and scallopine al limone (pork in a lemon sauce).
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Ristorante degli Abeti
Get your red-meat and cream fix here. Not the place for dieters or vegetarians, the menu offers sinfully rich piles of artery-thickeners, such as pappardelle con cinghiale e tartufo (pasta with wild boar and truffles) and prosciutto di cinghiale (ham with wild boar).
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Rocca Albornoziana
The Rocca Albornoziana dominates the city. It’s a former papal fortress that until 1982 was a high-security prison housing such notables as Pope John Paul II’s attempted assassin, Mehmet Ali Agca. Reservations for tours are essential as entry is only by guided tour.
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Chiesa di Sant'Eufemia
The 12th-century Chiesa di Sant'Eufemia is within the grounds of the Archbishop's palazzo. It is notable for its matronei - galleries set high above the main body of the church to segregate the female congregation. The admission price is for the attached Museo Diocesano.
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Ponte delle Torri
An hour-long stroll or an all-day hike is a lovely way to while away an afternoon along the Via del Ponte to the Ponte delle Torri, erected in the 14th century on the foundations of a Roman aqueduct. The bridge is 80m high and 230m across, built in an imposing set of 10 arches.
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Osteria del Trivio
Strings of garlic and dried peppers grace the walls of this most homey of home-style restaurants. This is a great place to try the strangozzi alla spoletina (local pasta in a tangy tomato sauce), and the stuffed artichokes are legendary.
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National Museum of the Dukedom of Spoleto
Rocca Albornoziana is currently home to the National Museum of the Dukedom of Spoleto, which houses historical information as well as artwork from Spoleto's pinacoteca, which will remain closed for several years.
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Galleria D’Arte Moderna
To check out modern artwork, head towards the Galleria D’Arte Moderna a homage to Spoleto’s commitment to its ongoing artistic support. The Italian sculptor Leoncillo has a dedicated room here.
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L’Antico Frantoio
Sandra has been cooking up her own sauces for several decades now. She sells them at this gourmet store, along with cheeses, salami, pasta, lenticchie (lentils) and all sorts of Umbrian goodies.
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Museo Archeologico
Make your first stop the Museo Archeologico, located on the western edge of Piazza della Libertà. It holds a well-displayed collection of Roman and Etruscan bits and bobs from the area.
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Taverna La Lanterna
A great place with extremely reasonable prices in the town centre, La Lanterna serves a variety of Umbrian pasta dishes. Tasting menus include vegetarian offerings, regular, and porcini and tartufo.
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Casa Romana
The excavated Casa Romana isn’t Pompeii, but it gives visitors a peek into what a typical Roman house of the area would have looked like in the 1st century BC.
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Pizzeria Zeppelin
A meeting point in town, where you can get a filling slice of pizza for less than €1, plus check your email (one hour costs €3).
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Chiesa di San Pietro
The 13th-century facade, the main attraction of the church, is liberally bedecked with sculpted animals.
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Il Libro
A wide selection of maps, cookbooks, guidebooks and novels in English.
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Teatro Romano
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