Things to do in Parco Naturale Regionale Delle Madonie
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Castelbuono Castle
In 1316, Francesco I Ventimiglia built the absolutely enormous Castelbuono Castle that gave the town its name (from castrum boni), and which soars above the golden patchwork of houses. The castle is divided into areas that cover archaeology, and the castle's and Castelbuono's history (with religious artefacts and jewellery), and several rooms are dedicated to modern and contemporary art exhibitions; sadly, none of the paintings are marked or explained.
The castle is supposed to be haunted by Queen Constance Chiaramonte, who it is said runs along the corridors, regular as clockwork, every first Tuesday of the month. Right in the heart of the castle is the extraordinary Cap…
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Santuario di Gibilmanna
While you're in town, you will probably meet a few visitors who have come on a pilgrimage to pray at the elaborately decorated baroque Santuario di Gibilmanna, a shrine to the Virgin Mary. During the shrine's coronation on 17 August 1760 (a day which also marked the official consecration of the church), the Virgin is supposed to have shown signs of life, namely restoring sight to two blind worshippers and speech to a mute.
The miracle was later confirmed by the Vatican and consequently, the church is one of Sicily's most important shrines.
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Chiesa Madre
At the start of the Imera valley, Polizzi Generosa is a charming town that was given the nomenclature generosa (generous) by Frederick II in the 1230s. The town is a trekking base for the Madonie, and is riddled with churches that are often shrouded in mist. One sight worth visiting is the Chiesa Madre, with a Flemish depiction of the Madonna and Child with Angels from the early 16th century, and a Madonna of the Rosary by Guiseppe Salerno.
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Ristorante Petrae Lejum
At this cosy family-run place specialising in mountain cuisine, you can indulge in rare treats such as cinghiale affumicato (smoked wild boar), tagliatelle delle Madonie (pasta with fennel, almonds, fresh sardines, raisins, tomato sauce and pecorino cheese) or maccheroni alla carrettera ottocentesca (macaroni with parsley, pistachios, hot peppers, garlic and pecorino cheese).
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Trattoria-Pizzeria ‘da Salvatore’
Charismatic Salvatore (who speaks German, French and some English) has run this popular, Slow Food–recommended trattoria in ‘upper’ Petralia for 25 years. The wide-ranging antipasti selection (€9) includes grilled seasonal vegetables and a delicious fresh ricotta frittata (omelette). Everything is prepared in the wood-burning oven, including pizzas (from €4), which are an evening-only treat.
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Relais Santa Anastasia
Relais Santa Anastasia is a simply gorgeous 12th-century abbey - superlatives are not enough to describe it. Set among working vineyards, and with an ancient cobbled courtyard straight out of a storybook, the abbey boasts beautiful rooms, exquisite attention to detail, and fabulous food and wine from the vineyards. It is 9km from Castelbuono in the direction of Cefalù.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria di Loreto
The most beautiful church in Petralia Soprana is the 18th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria di Loreto, at the end of Via Loreto, off the main square. Inside is an altarpiece by Gagini and a Madonna by Giacomo Mancini. To the right of the church through an arch is the town's belvedere.
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Museo di Mina Palumbo
The other excellent sight in Castelbuono is the Museo di Mina Palumbo, named after the naturalist Francesco Minà Palumbo. His collection gives an exhaustive insight into the Madonie mountains, and their botany, natural history, minerals and archaeology.
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Antica Gelateria del Corso
Antica Gelateria del Corso, is another fine deli, maker of testa di Turco (Turk's head; blancmange with puff pastry in the middle), chocolate-covered almonds and tasty ice cream. All products are handmade and delicious.
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Nangalarruni
A restaurant famous throughout Sicily for its mushrooms, local cheeses, roast meats and vegetable dishes. Spike your appetite with zuppe di funghi e legumi (mushroom and vegetable soup).
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Accademia della Stella
If you fancy a canter in the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie, contact Accademia della Stella which organises guided treks of three to 10 days.
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Fiasconaro
The historic Fiasconaro has exclusive hand-wrapped Mannetto sponge cakes spiked with candied fruit or chocolate.
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Romitaggio
Also recommended is Romitaggio, located in an ancient Benedictine monastery 4km from Castelbuono on the San Guglielmo road.
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L'Orlando
It's a good idea to pick up some pastries from L'Orlando and satisfy your sweet tooth while you stroll.
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