Things to do in Bergamo
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Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Begun in 1137, the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore is quite a mishmash. To its whirl of Romanesque apses (on which some external frescoes remain visible), Gothic additions were slapped on. A more obvious addition is the busy Renaissance Cappella Colleoni, on the side facing the Piazza del Duomo. Detached from the church is the octagonal baptistry.
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Trattoria al Teatro
Located in a centuries-old building at the west end of the città alta, this family-run spot has a limited but constantly changing menu of down-home local dishes. Choose from a handful of primi and secondi, with such local classics as casoncelli alla bergamasca, followed perhaps by a filetto ai ferri (a grilled beef filet).
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La Rocca
The 19th-century section of Museo Storico della Città is located in the fortress La Rocca, whose round tower dates from Bergamo’s days as a Venetian outpost. La Rocca keeps the same hours as the main museum. The same ticket covers entry here and also to La Rocca’s surrounding park, with sweeping views over Bergamo.
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Torre del Campanone
Across the square from the Palazzo della Ragione, the colossal, square-based Torre del Campanone tolls the old 10pm curfew. There’s a wheelchair-accessible lift to the top of the tower. For €5 you get entry to the tower and other sights around the city, including La Rocca and the Museo Donizettiano.
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Colleoni & dell’Angelo
Piazza Vecchia provides the ideal backdrop to savour inventive local cuisine in an extraordinary setting. First courses include ravioloni ripieni di Bagoss alle foglie di basilico fritto e vitello glassato (big dumplings filled with local Bagoss cheese with fried basil leaves and veal glazing).
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Accademia Carrara
Just east of the walls is one of Italy’s great art repositories, Accademia Carrara. Founded in 1780, it contains an exceptional range of Italian masters. Raphael’s San Sebastiano is a highlight, but other artists represented include Botticelli, Canaletto, Mantegna and Titian.
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Vineria Cozzi
Sample the extensive wine list by the glass and dine inside or in the tiny courtyard. Several pasta and rice options lead the way, and you might follow with a rabbit done in local Valcalepio red wine. The desserts, with a slightly modern touch, are all homemade.
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Da Vittorio
Bergamo’s acclaimed Vittorio is set in a country house 9km east of town and is up there with the best restaurants in Italy, not the least on account of its truffle dishes (a special truffle menu can cost €280). They also have some rooms (single/double €200/250).
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Antica Hosteria del Vino Buono
Feast on typical dishes like cheese-sprinkled casoncelli (home-made pasta cushions filled with a spicy sausage meat and laced with a buttery sage sauce) followed by a plate of stinco al forno con polenta (baked beef shank with polenta).
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Ol Giupì e la Margì
Sample authentic Bergamo delicacies in this authentic brick-vaulted restaurant. You can choose from fried sausages, risotto, and roast rabbit with grappa and polenta. They offer a set lunch menu at €28 and set dinner tasting menu for €40.
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Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea
The Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea displays the academy’s small permanent collection of modern works by Italian artists such as Giacomo Balla, Giorgio Morandi, Giorgio de Chirico and Filippo de Pisis.
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Agnello d’Oro
With the incredible clutter of objects adorning every wall, this 17th-century spot could easily pass for an eccentric antique shop. Rooms here (singles/doubles €55/92) are attractive, and you can dine alfresco in summer.
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Orto Botanico Lorenzo Rota
For spectacular views, visit Bergamo’s botanic garden, planted with some 1200 species in a small but enchanting area carved out of the old Venetian defensive walls.
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Duomo
Roman remains were discovered during renovations of the modest baroque Duomo. A rather squat maroon building, it has a brilliant white facade.
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Museo Donizettiano
The Museo Donizettiano is an ornate hall housing the piano and manuscripts of Bergamo’s favourite musical son, Gaetano Donizetti (1797–1848).
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Piazza Vecchia
The upper town’s beating heart is this cafe-clad piazza, lined by elegant architecture that is a testament in stone to Bergamo’s long and colourful history. Le Corbusier apparently found it ‘the most beautiful square in Europe’ – good thing they didn’t try out any of his ideas on it!
The white porticoed building on Via Bartolomeo Colleoni, which forms the northern side of the piazza, is the 17th-century Palazzo Nuovo, now a library. Turn south and you face the imposing arches and columns of the Palazzo della Ragione, built in the 12th century. The lion of St Mark is a reminder of Venice’s long reign here. Across the square from the palace, the colossal, square…
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History Museum
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Cappella Colleoni
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Botanic Garden
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