Things to do in Bologna
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Pizzeria La Brace
Neither pizza nor fish are considered Bolognese specialities but that's what they do here, and what they do well. If a pizza doesn't appeal, the carpaccio di pesce spada (thin slices of raw swordfish) followed by a fritto misto (mixed fish fry) is a fine alternative. Hanging football shirts and portraits of Hollywood icons provide an unusual décor.
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Drogheria della Rosa
With its wooden shelves, apothecaries’ jars and bottles, it’s not difficult to picture this place as the pharmacy that it once was. Nowadays it’s a charming, high-end trattoria, run by an affable English-speaking owner who will happily go through the day’s short, sweet menu of ultrafresh choices with you. Expect superbly prepared versions of Bolognese classics such as tortellini or steak with balsamic vinegar.
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Trattoria Fantoni
To the west of the centre of Bologna, Via del Pratello is a long-standing bohemian hang-out packed with pubs, trattorias and bars. One of the best, Fantoni is a much-loved eatery dishing up classic Italian food at welcome prices. The atmosphere’s jovial and the decor is an agreeable clash of clutter and modern art.
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Private Tour: Gourmet Walking Tour of Bologna - Pasta, Mortadella and Chocolate
2 hours 30 minutes (Departs Bologna, Italy)
by Viator
Take a private guided walking tour through the medieval market of Bologna and explore the history, art and traditions of the city and its famous food. With only…Not LP reviewed
from USD$114.42 -
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La Sorbetteria Castiglione
Locals queue up day and night at this award-winning gelateria, which focuses all of its creative energy on 18 flavours. Taste the gianduia (chocolate-hazelnut ice cream with whole hazelnuts inside) and you’ll be an instant convert.
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Terzi
A refined cafe serving an unusual range of coffees, Terzi is a great spot to toy with a caffè con prugna e cannella (espresso with plum and cinnamon).
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Paolo Atti
For foodie buys head to the Quadrilatero, a haven of delis and speciality food shops, including Paolo Atti.
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Cinema Lumière
Northwest of the city centre; shows art-house films in their original version.
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Basilica di Santo Stefano
From Bologna's two leaning towers, head southeast along Via Santo Stefano for the Basilica di Santo Stefano, an atmospheric medieval religious complex. Originally there were seven churches – hence the basilica’s nickname Sette Chiese – but only four remain. Entry is via the 11th-century Chiesa del Crocefisso, which houses the bones of San Petronio and leads through to the Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro. This austere octagonal structure probably started life as a baptistry. Next door, the Cortile di Pilato is named after the central basin in which Pontius Pilate is said to have washed his hands after condemning Christ to death. In fact, it’s an 8th-century Lombard artefact. Bey…
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Pinacoteca Nazionale
The Pinacoteca Nazionale has a strong collection of works by Bolognese artists from the 14th century onwards, including a number of important canvases by the late-16th-century Carracci cousins Ludovico, Agostino and Annibale. Among the founding fathers of Italian baroque art, the Carraccis were deeply influenced by the Counter-Reformation sweeping through Italy in the latter half of the 16th century. Much of their work is religious and their imagery is often highly charged and emotional, designed to appeal to the piety of the viewing public. Works to look out for include Ludovico’s Madonna Bargellini, the Comunione di San Girolamo (Communion of St Jerome) by Agostino an…
reviewed
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Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca
About 3.5km southwest of the centre of Bologna, the hilltop Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca houses a representation of the Virgin Mary, supposedly painted by St Luke and transported from the Middle East to Bologna in the 12th century. The 18th-century sanctuary is connected to the city walls by the world’s longest portico, held aloft by 666 arches, beginning at Piazza di Porta Saragozza. Take bus 20 from the city centre to Villa Spada, from where you can continue by minibus (buy the €3.40 return ticket on board) to the sanctuary. Alternatively, continue one more stop on bus 20 to the Meloncello arch and walk the remaining 2km under the arches.
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Basilica di San Petronio
Dominating the piazza’s southern flank, the Gothic Basilica di San Petronio ([tel]051 22 54 42; [hours]7.45am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm) is Bologna’s greatest church. Dedicated to the city’s patron saint and measuring 132m by 66m by 47m, it’s the world’s fifth-largest basilica. Surprisingly, though, it was never finished. Originally it was intended to be larger than St Peter’s in Rome, but in 1561, some 169 years after building had started, Pope Pius IV blocked construction by commissioning a new university on the basilica’s eastern flank. As a result the facade was never completed and if you walk along Via dell’Archiginnasio you can see semiconstructed apses poking out oddly.…
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Teatro Anatomico
Housed in Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, the fascinating 17th-century Teatro Anatomico is where public body dissections were held under the sinister gaze of an Inquisition priest, ready to intervene if proceedings became too spiritually compromising. Cedar-wood tiered seats surround a central marble-topped table while a sculptured Apollo looks down from the ceiling. The canopy above the lecturer’s chair is supported by two skinless figures carved into the wood. The theatre, and many of the building’s frescoes, was destroyed during WWII and subsequently rebuilt.
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Basilica di San Domenico
The Basilica di San Domenico was built in 1238 to house the remains of San Domenico, founder of the Dominican order, who died in 1221. His elaborate sarcophagus is in the Cappella di San Domenico, which was designed by Nicola Pisano and later added to by a host of artists. Michelangelo carved the angel on the right of the altar when he was only 19. Notice, too, the intricately executed wooden tableaux of the choir stalls. When Mozart spent a month at the city’s music academy, he occasionally played the church’s organ.
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Palazzo Comunale
Forming the western flank of Piazza Maggiore, Palazzo Comunale (known also as Palazzo D’Accursio after its original resident, Francesco D’Accursio) has been home to Bologna city council since 1336. A salad of architectural styles, it owes much of its current look to makeovers in the 15th and 16th centuries. The statue of Pope Gregory XIII, the Bolognese prelate responsible for the Gregorian calendar, was placed above the main portal in 1580, while inside, Donato Bramante’s 16th-century staircase was designed to allow horse-drawn carriages to ride directly up to the 1st floor.
On the 2nd floor you’ll find the palazzo’s two art galleries: the Collezioni Comunali d’Art…
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Torre degli Asinelli
Towering above Piazza di Porta Ravegnana, one of Bologna’s two leaning towers, Le Due Torri, is an unmistakable landmark. The 97.6m-high Torre degli Asinelli is open to the public, although it’s not advisable for the weak-kneed (there are 498 steps) or superstitious students (local lore says if you climb the tower you’ll never graduate). Built by the Asinelli family between 1109 and 1119, today it leans 1.3m off vertical.
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Godot Wine Bar
Don’t let the name fool you! Yes, there’s a great wine selection, with daily specials chalked up on the board and an emphasis on Italian vintages, but Godot has also emerged as one of Bologna’s premier restaurants, whipping up extravagant concoctions like rombo in crosta di patate, datterini semi-confit, olive nere e salsa al prezzemolo (turbot in a potato crust with semiconfit of dates, black olives and parsley).
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Museo Morandi
On the 2nd floor of Palazzo Comunale you'll find the art gallery Museo Morandi which is dedicated to the trademark still lives of Bolognese artist Giorgio Morandi.
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Osteria de’ Poeti
In the wine cellar of a 14th-century palazzo, this historic eatery is an atmospheric place to enjoy hearty local fare. Take a table by the impressive stone fireplace and order from a selection of staples such as taglioline con fiori di zucca, zucchini e prosciutto di Parma (pasta with pumpkin flowers, courgettes and Parma ham). Evenings feature frequent live music.
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Oratorio di Santa Cecilia
Lorenzo Costa and Francesco Raibolini (known as Il Francia) were mainly responsible for the magnificent 16th-century frescoes in the Oratorio di Santa Cecilia, one of Bologna’s unsung gems. Depicting the life and Technicolor death of St Cecilia and her husband Valeriano, they are in remarkably good nick, their colours vibrant and their imagery bold and unabashed.
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Palazzo del Podestà
Dating to 13th century, the Palazzo del Podestà was the original residence of Bologna's chief magistrate. Beneath the palazzo there's a whispering gallery where two perpendicular passages intersect. Stand diagonally opposite someone and whisper: the acoustics are amazing. Both palazzi are off-limits to the public unless there's a temporary exhibition on.
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Le Stanze
Each of the four interior rooms at this hip corner bar has its own design concept; depending on your mood, you can hide away on velvet backroom couches, people-watch alfresco at the sidewalk tables, or embrace the expansive chapel-chic vibe in the main bar area, where 17th-century frescoes hint at its earlier use as the Bentivoglio family’s private chapel.
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Cantina Bentivoglio
Bologna’s top jazz joint, the Bentivoglio is a jack of all trades. Part wine bar (choose from over 500 labels), part restaurant (the daily prix-fixe menu costs €28) and part jazz club (there’s live music nightly), this much-loved institution oozes cosy charm with its ancient brick floors, arched ceilings and shelves full of wine bottles.
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Fontana del Nettuno
Adjacent to Piazza Maggiore, Piazza del Nettuno owes its name to the Fontana del Nettuno (Neptune’s Fountain), a stirring bronze statue sculpted by Giambologna in 1566. Beneath the muscled sea god, four cherubs represent the winds and four buxom sirens, water spouting from every nipple, symbolise the four known continents of the pre-Oceania world.
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Trattoria da Gianni
Down a side alley in the Quadrilatero, Gianni's is well known and well loved. Italian speakers can read the testimonials and press-cuttings on the walls as they wait for such crowd-pleasers as gnocchi di zucca, burro e menta (pumpkin gnocchi with butter and mint) and bollito misto (mixed boiled meat).
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