West Timor

Introducing West Timor

West Timor has never been much of a tourist destination, although it is very scenic, with rugged countryside and traditional villages that are well worth exploring. The combination of Indonesia’s recent crises, visa restrictions, East Timor’s harrowing struggle for independence and transport issues all but wiped West Timor from the tourism map for many years. But with twice-weekly Kupang–Darwin connections now back in operation and the proximity of East Timor offering an inexpensive visa run, visitor numbers are slowly increasing again.

Kupang is the main city and is very Indonesian, with its buzzing bemos and honking horns. Beyond Kupang, West Timor’s landscape is captivating, with its spiky lontar palms, rocky soils and central hills dotted with villages of beehive-shaped huts. It also has some fantastic coastline, though there are no resorts, just empty beaches.

Aggravated by dry winds from northern Australia, the dry season is prolonged and results in food and water shortages. Maize is the staple crop, but coffee and dry rice are important.

Christianity is widespread, though in some rural areas animistic traditions endure. Many villagers still defer to their traditional chiefs, wear ikat, munch betel nut and down tuak (palm-sap liquor) with relish. Around 14 languages are spoken on the island, both Malay and Papuan types, though the native Tetum is understood in most parts. The population of West Timor is about 1.6 million.

West Timor offers excellent travel connections to other parts of Nusa Tenggara and Bali by boat and plane, including the remote islands of Alor and Rote.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009