Sumba

Introducing Sumba

The dry, undulating island of Sumba has the richest tribal culture in Nusa Tenggara, centred on a religious tradition called marapu. It’s one of the poorest but most fascinating islands to visit, with a decidedly off-the-beaten-track appeal courtesy of its thatched clan houses, colossal carved megalith tombs, outstanding hand-spun ikat and bloody sacrificial funerals.

Physically it looks quite different from the volcanic islands to the north, its country­side characterised by low limestone hills and fields of maize and cassava. Sumba’s extensive grasslands made it one of Indonesia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses are still used as transport in more rugged regions; they are a symbol of wealth and status and have traditionally been used as part of the bride-price.

Sumba’s traditions remain particularly strong in its wetter, more fertile and more remote western half, which is home to about two-thirds of the island’s 540, 000 people. Though most islanders are now officially Protestant, marapu traditions and old conflicts are recalled every year at western Sumba’s terrific, often-violent Pasola festivals, which involve ritual battles between teams of mounted horse riders.

These battles hint at deep-rooted tribal tensions, which periodically erupt between rival princedoms. As recently as 1998 around 3000 tribesmen clashed in Waikabubak, a battle that claimed 26 lives according to official figures (though many locals put the true number at over 100).

While some Bahasa Indonesia is spoken everywhere, Sumba has six main languages. Few travellers make it here, but it’s a deeply rewarding place to explore and has fairly good transport connections with the rest of the region.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009