Getting there & away
Visitors to Khajuraho may feel uncomfortably like its intrepid Victorian discoverer by the end of a long, shaky bus journey from one of the nearest railheads. Flying is a good alternative, and a railway line is being built to link Khajuraho with Jhansi and Varanasi.
Yashowaran Taxi Driver Union (9425143774), opposite Gole Market, drives to Satna (with/without AC Rs 1500/1200), Varanasi (with/without AC Rs 5000/4500), Agra (with/without AC Rs 6000/5500) and Orchha or Jhansi (with/without AC Rs 2500/2200).
To Bamitha costs Rs 300; a jeep, necessary for Panna National Park, costs Rs 1500.
Prices are fixed but off-season bargaining is a possibility. Costs can be cut by sharing a ride.
The bus station has a ticket office (8am-noon & 1.30-7pm) off Link Rd No 2.
There are regular buses to Jhansi (Rs 90, five hours) including deluxe services (Rs 170, 9am and 11.15am); the second connects with the Jhansi–Delhi Shatabdi train. There’s a bus to Agra (Rs 240, 10 hours, 8am) and, on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, a night bus to Varanasi (Rs 190, 14 hours, 3pm).
Three buses run to Satna (Rs 80, 3½ hours, 7.30am, 2pm and 3pm) and there are regular services to Mahoba (Rs 40, four hours) and to Madla for Panna National Park (Rs 25, one hour).
More buses can be caught at Bamitha, 11km away on Hwy 75 where buses between Gwalior, Jhansi and Satna shuttle through all day. Catch a shared jeep (Rs 10, 7am to 7pm) to Bamitha from the bus station.
Train tickets can be bought from the train reservation office (274416; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) at the bus station. When it’s closed, the amiable chai (tea) shop owner outside has a current timetable.
Jhansi is the nearest station on the Delhi–Mumbai train line; Satna on the Mumbai–Allahabad line is better for Varanasi. An alternative is to get the bus to Mahoba and take train 1107 Bundelkhand Express overnight to Varanasi (Rs 334/788/991, 10 hours, 12.34am).
Reserve in advance, as seats can be booked solid for days by tour groups.