Christiania

Lonely Planet review

In 1971 an abandoned 41-hectare military camp on the eastern side of Christianshavn was taken over by squatters who proclaimed it the 'free state' of Christiania, subject to their own laws. The police tried to clear the area but it was the height of the hippie revolution and an increasing number of alternative folk from throughout Denmark continued to pour in, attracted by the concept of communal living and the prospect of reclaiming military land for peaceful purposes.

Bowing to public pressure, the government allowed the community to continue as a social experiment. About 1000 people settled into Christiania, turning the old barracks into schools and housing, and starting their own collective businesses, workshops and recycling programs.

Christiania residents, self-governing, ecology-oriented and generally tolerant, did, in time, find it necessary to modify their free-law/anything goes approach. A new policy was established that outlawed hard drugs, and the heroin and cocaine pushers were expelled, although for many years a blind eye was turned to the sale of marijuana and hash on 'Pusher St'.

Many Danes still resent the community's rent-free, tax-free situation and more than a few Christianshavn neighbours would like to see sections of Christiania turned into public parks and school grounds. The sheer size and incredible location of the land means that the pressure for the government to take back the space it's been 'lending' to the Christiania locals for the last 30-odd years has greatly increased.

In recent years, the police, decked out in riot gear, have patrolled Christiania regularly, staging numerous organised raids leading to some ugly confrontations and arrests. However, with an election approaching, which the current administration is by no means assured of winning, coupled with a decline in the power of the Dansk Folkeparti, things are looking slightly better for Christiania than they have in the last five years.

Visitors are welcome to stroll or cycle in car-free Christiania, which has a small market, a couple of craft shops and a few places where you can get coffee and something to eat; the open sale of soft drugs is now banned. The main entrance into Christiania is on Prinsessegade, 200m northeast of its intersection with Bådsmandsstræde. You can take a guided tour of Christiania. Meet just inside the main entrance. There's a Pusher St information office of sorts - it's just next to the Oasen café.