Rijeka, Croatia’s third-largest city, is an intriguing blend of gritty port and Habsburg grandeur. Most people rush through en route to the islands or Dalmatia, but those who pause will discover charm and culture. Blend in with the coffee-sipping locals on the bustling Korzo pedestrian strip, take in the city museums and visit the imposing hilltop fortress of Trsat. Rijeka also boasts a good nightlife, intriguing festivals and Croatia’s most colourful carnival.
Despite some regrettable architectural ventures in the outskirts, much of the centre is replete with ornate Austro-Hungarian-style buildings. It’s a surprisingly verdant city once you’ve left its concrete core, which contains Croatia’s largest port, with ships, cargo and cranes lining the waterfront.
Rijeka is a vital transport hub, but as there’s no real beach in the city (and hotel options are few) most people base themselves in nearby Opatija.
Rijeka destination guides
Kvarner Bay Bike & Boat
Cycle and cruise to explore the charming islands of Croatia's Kvarner Bay
Croatia Truffle Festival
Prized by epicureans for their flavour and scarcity, the elusive truffle is the rock star of the fungus world. And nobody celebrates this most exalted of tubers quite like Croatia, home to the annual Truffle Days Festival.