Sights in Qīngdǎo
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St Michael's Catholic Church
Completed in 1934, the twin-spired church, up a steep hill off Zhongshan Lu, is a grand edifice with a cross on each spire. The church was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and the crosses were torn off. God-fearing locals rescued them, however, and buried them in the hills. The interior is splendid, with white walls, gold piping, sections of stained glass all around and lots of technicolour murals. Look up the back to see an enormous organ that is still used for services. Put aside time to roam the area around here – a lattice of ancient hilly streets where old folk sit on wooden stools in decrepit doorways, playing cards and shooting the breeze.
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Shílǎorén
It comes as little surprise that Qīngdǎo's best beach is draped along the shore way off in the east of town, far from the shrieking rubber-ring/buckets-and-spade crowd. South of the dramatic mountain bulk of Fushan, Shílǎorén is a gorgeous 2.5km-long strip of clean sand and seawater-smoothed seashells, occasionally engulfed in banks of mist pouring in from offshore.
Early morning runs here are divine - and yours may be the only set of footprints on the sand. Take bus 317 from Taipingjiao or hop in a taxi.
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Qīngdǎo Yíng Bīnguǎn
To the east of Xìnhàoshān Park remains one of Qīngdǎo's most interesting pieces of German architecture – the former German governor's residence and a replica of a German palace. Built in 1903, it is said to have cost 2,450,000 taels of silver. When Kaiser Wilhelm II got the bill, he immediately sacked the extravagant governor. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed here with his wife and kids on holiday. It's now a museum.
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Little Qīngdǎo
Poking like a lollipop into Qīngdǎo Bay south of No 6 Bathing Beach, and dominated by its white German-built lighthouse, this spot along the peninsula is excellent for throwing off the crowds battling it out on the beaches. Set your alarm to catch early-morning vistas of the hazy bay and the town coming to life from the promontory's leafy park.
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Protestant Church
On a street notable for its German architecture, this church was designed by Curt Rothkegel and built in 1908. The interior is simple and Lutheran in its sparseness, apart from some delightful carvings on the pillar cornices. You can climb up to inspect the mechanism of its clock (Bockenem 1909). It is also well worth wandering along nearby Daxue Lu for a marvellous scenic view of old German Qīngdǎo.
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Huáng Dǎo
About 30 minutes by boat from Qīngdǎo and a further 30 minutes by bus is the beach of Huáng Dǎo , which is quieter and cleaner than Qīngdǎo's beaches. The ferry leaves from the Qīngdǎo local ferry terminal (Qīngdǎo lúndùzhàn), to the west of the train station. The first departure is at 06:30, with the final boat returning at 21:00. Once you reach the island, take bus 1 to its terminus.
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Tianhou Temple
This small restored temple is dedicated to Tianhou (Heaven Queen), Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The main hall contains a colourful statue of Tianhou, flanked by two figures and a pair of fearsome guardians. Other halls include the Dragon King Hall (龙王殿; Lóngwáng Diàn), where in front of the Dragon King lies a splayed pig, and a shrine to the God of Wealth. What's absolutely incongruous and rather amusing are the many temple attendants who hawk joss sticks to visitors and literally command them to pay their respects.
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Taipingshan Park
The mountainous area northeast of Zhongshan Park is called Taipingshan Park , an area of walking paths, pavilions and the best spot in town for hiking. In the centre of the park is the TV Tower (Diànshì Tǎ), which has an express lift up to fabulous views of the city (around Y30). You can reach the tower via cable car (Y20).
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Eight Passes Area
Nearby the No 1 Bathing Beach is the Eight Passes Area , which is well known for its sanatoriums and exclusive guesthouses. The spas are scattered in lush wooded zones off the coast, and each street is lined with a different tree or flower, including maple, myrtle, peach, snow pine or crab apple. This is a lovely area in which to stroll.
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Huāshí Lóu
The castlelike villa built in 1930 was originally the home of a Russian aristocrat, and later the German governor's retreat for fishing and hunting. The Chinese call it the 'Chiang Kaishek Building' as the generalissimo secretly stayed here in 1947. While most of the rooms in the house are closed, what's open is enough to evoke a sense of the times. Clamber up two narrow stairwells to get to the top of the turret. The surrounding views of the hills behind and the bay in front are stunning. Located at the eastern end of the No 2 Bathing Beach and at the southern tip of Zijingguan Lu.
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Tsingtao Brewery
Established in 1903 by the beer-loving Germans, the Tsingtao Brewery makes the finest brew in China with the mineral waters of nearby Láo Shān. Phone ahead to book a tour to examine the brewery, its fixtures and props.
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No 2 Bathing Beach
Heading out of Eight Passes Area, Nos 2 and 3 Bathing Beaches are just east, and the villas lining the headlands are quite exquisite. No 2 Bathing Beach is cleaner, quieter and more sheltered than No 1 Bathing Beach.
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Guanhaishan Park
The charm of small Guanhaishan Park lies in finding it: the route winds up a small hill through restful lanes; the park is at the top. Although small, the park was used as a golf course by the Germans.
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Xinhaoshan Park
Down the hill and to the east is Xinhaoshan Park , the summit of which is capped by the carbuncular towers known as the mógu lóu (mushroom buildings).
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Zhanshan Temple
Within Taipingshan Park is Qīngdǎo's largest temple, Zhanshan Temple . The temple has a number of dramatic sandalwood Buddhas covered in gold foil.
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Zhongshan Park
Zhongshan Park covers a vast 80 hectares, and in springtime is a heavily wooded profusion of flowering shrubs and plants. Buses 25 and 26 travel to the park.
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No 1 Bathing Beach
The sand of No 1 Bathing Beach is coarse-grained, engulfed in seaweed, and bordered by concrete beach huts and bizarre statues of dolphins.
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Huilan Pavilion
At No 6 Bathing Beach is a pier that reaches out into the bay and is tipped with the eight-sided Huilan Pavilion .
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No 6 Bathing Beach
Close to the train station is the No 6 Bathing Beach, neighbouring Zhàn Qiáo (Zhan Bridge).
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Qīngdǎo Parks
Within this area Zhōngshān Park covers a vast 69 hectares, and with its lakes and trees it's almost Europeanlike. There's an amusement park, cherry blossoms, tulip gardens and walking paths. In springtime (late April to early May), the park features a cherry blossom festival and in summer (August) a lantern festival. Buses 26, 203, 214, 231 and 501 travel to the park.
Connected to the Zhōngshān Park, the mountainous area to the northeast is called Tàipíngshān Park (太平山公园; Tàipíngshān Gōngyuán), an area of walking paths, pavilions and the best spot in town for hiking. In the centre of the park is the TV Tower (Diànshì Tǎ), with panoramic views out to t…
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Qīngdǎo Beaches
Qīngdǎo is famed for its six beaches, which are pleasant enough, but don't go expecting the French Riviera. Chinese beach culture is low-key, although the main swimming season (June to September) sees hordes of sun-seekers fighting for towel space. Shark nets, lifeguards, lifeboat patrols and medical stations are at hand. If you give in to the many touts in the area, you can take a boat ride around the bay for Y10 to Y20 depending on the size of the boat.
Qīngdǎo's largest beach is draped along the shore, way off in the east of town. Shílǎorén Bathing Beach (石老人; Donghai Donglu) is a 2.5km-long strip of clean sand and seawater-smoothed seashells, occasionally engulf…
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Qingdao Underwater World
Kids will love this long-standing aquarium, with its spectacular 82m underwater glass-enclosed tunnel and various underwater performances. Just avoid going on the weekend, when the queues are maddening and you get pushed along, production-line style.
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Navy Museum
Just adjacent to Little Qīngdǎo, this 'museum' is really a rusty submarine and destroyer permanently anchored in the harbour. There are, of course, displays on the Chinese Navy.
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