Angkor Thom

From Angkor Wat, the bridge leading to the south gate of Angkor Thom has two incredible balustrades of giants handling nagas (mythical serpents, often multiheaded), an incredible first impression made only more dreamlike by the elephants plodding out of the arched entrance topped by the four enormous faces of Avalokiteshvara (the Buddha of Compassion). Angkor Thom is a walled compound bordered by a 100m wide moat. It was built by the great King Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219) as his royal palace.

The complex has five gateways, each with double portals. Four of the gateways point to each side of the compass, while the fifth is a Victory Gateway.

Behind the 8m walls lie some of Angkor's most important monuments: the Bayon, the Terrace of Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King.

The Bayon was the King's state temple. It rises from the centre of Angkor Thom's compound in a cluster of conical towers. Smiling in every direction are the four divine faces of Avalokiteshvara, carved with a great likeness to King Jayavarman VII in his state of peaceful meditation. There are 54 towers in total with a staggering 216 faces. Complementing the faces are the intricate bas-reliefs depicting daily life in the king's court and the bloody battles against the Chams.

East of the Royal Palace is the remarkable Elephant Terrace. Royal war elephants march along its 350m length topped with hunters and warriors who are seated high enough to avoid the claws of tigers below. At the northern end is a splendid royal horse protected by umbrellas and accompanied by apsaras and demons. The terrace was originally used as the reception hall for royal parties and guests and as the platform from which processions and performances were viewed.

North of the Elephant Terrace, the Terrace of the Leper King is the topic of many scholarly arguments. It is so named after the statue which sits on the 6m-high platform. Some believe it represents King Yasovarman I, who allegedly died of leprosy, hence the name 'Leper King'. This theory was borne out of the lichen growth marks left on the statue, mottling it like the skin of those suffering from leprosy. On the statue itself is a 15th-century inscription that indicates the figure to be Yama, god of death. Historians believe that it was placed here to symbolise the terrace's primary use as the royal cremation site.

Built by King Udayadityavarman II (r 1049-65), the Baphuon is a three-tiered temple-pyramid with exquisite bas-reliefs depicting scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. At the end of the 15th century, parts of the tower were dismantled to create a 70m reclining Buddha in a bid to turn the Shiva-devoted temple into a Theravada sanctuary; the Buddha is still there on the western wall.

The ticket office (1-day/3-day/1-week pass) and check point are on the road from Siem Reap to Angkor. One-week passes require a passport photo. You'll be whacked with a fine if you are found at the temples without a pass.