Rio de Janeiro Getting there & around

Getting around

Boat

Rio has several islands in the bay that you can visit by ferry, though you can also get fine views on the commuter ferry to Niterói.

Ilha de Paquetá (ferries 4004 3113, hydrofoils 2533 4343) The regular ferry (weekday/weekend return R$7.20/12, 70 minutes, seven to nine daily) runs from 7:10am to 11pm. The hydrofoil (return R$16, 30 minutes, two to four daily) often cancels service for no apparent reason.

Niterói The ferry (return R$4.60, 20 minutes) leaves every 20 minutes from Praça XV de Novembro in Centro . Faster and more comfortable catamarans (return R$11, 10 minutes) run every 15 minutes from 7am to 4pm.

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Bus & tram

Bus & van

Rio buses (R$1.90 to R$2.30) are fast and frequent, and because Rio is long and narrow it’s easy to get the right bus and usually no big deal if you’re on the wrong one. Most buses going south from the center will go to Copacabana, and vice versa. The buses are, however, often crowded, stuck in traffic, and driven by raving maniacs. They’re also the sites of many of the city’s robberies, and it’s not wise to ride late at night. On most buses you now board at the front, and pay the fare to the money collector. To avoid pickpockets and muggers, try to sit near the front of the bus. Avoid packed buses.

Minibuses (Cariocas call them vans) provide a faster alternative between Av Rio Branco in Centro and the Zona Sul as far as Barra da Tijuca. The destination is written in the front window. The flat fare costs around R$4.

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Car & motorcycle

Car

Driving can be frustrating even if you know your way around. If you do drive in Rio, it’s good to know a couple of things. The first is that Cariocas don’t always stop at red lights at night, because of the small risk of robberies at deserted intersections. Instead they slow at red lights and proceed if no one is around. Another thing to know is that if you park your car on the street, it’s common to pay the flanelinha (parking attendant) R$2 for looking after it. Some of them work for the city; others are ‘freelance, ’ but regardless, it’s a common practice throughout Brazil.

Hire

Car-hire agencies can be found at either airport or scattered along Av Princesa Isabel in Copacabana. At the international airport, Hertz (3398 4377),Localiza (3398 5445) and Unidas (3398 3452) provide hire cars. In Copacabana the following are worth a try: Avis (2543 8481; Av Princesa Isabel 350, Copacabana), Localiza (2275 3340; Av Princesa Isabel 150, Copacabana), Actual (2541 3444; Av Princesa Isabel 181, Copacabana) and Hertz (2275 7440; Av Princesa Isabel 500, Copacabana).

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Local transport

Metro

Rio’s subway system is an excellent, speedy way to get around. It’s open from 5am to midnight Monday through Saturday and 7am to 11pm on Sunday and holidays. During Carnaval the metro operates nonstop from Friday morning until Tuesday at midnight.

Both air-conditioned lines are clean, fast and safe. The main line goes from Cantagalo (which opened in 2007) in Copacabana to Saens Peña, connecting with the secondary line at Estácio (which provides service to São Cristóvão, Maracanã and northern suburbs). More stations are planned in the coming years, and eventually Ipanema (Praça General Osório) will be linked to the system. You can buy one-way, round-trip or 10-ride tickets. A basic single costs R$2.30, and there’s no discount for round-trip or multiple-ride tickets – although you can connect to an Integração bus for free. Just be sure to request a bilhete integração (integrated ticket) at the ticket booth. Free subway maps are available at most ticket booths.

Taxi

Rio’s taxis are quite handy for zipping around town. Metered taxis charge around R$4.30 flat rate, plus around R$3 per km – slightly more at night and on Sunday. Radio taxis are 30% more expensive, but safer.

A selection of radio taxis includes Centraltáxi (2593 2598), Coopatáxi (3899 4343), JB (2501 3026) and Transcoopass (2560 4888).

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