El Alto

Lonely Planet review

A billboard proudly announces: 'El Alto is not part of Bolivia's problem. It's part of Bolivia's solution.' Not all would agree, but visiting here is an experience. Having once been a melting pot for campesinos (subsistence farmers) and people from all around the country, El Alto is now a city in its own right.

Dozens of white church spires soar up from the brown earth. These were built by a German priest, Padre Obermaier, renowned in the city for his past and current works (and longevity). From the canyon rim at the top of the El Alto Autopista (toll-road) or the top of the free route at Plaza Ballivián, the streets hum with almost perpetual activity. It's hard to distinguish one street from another - the miles of orange brick and adobe houses, shops, factories and cholita-filled markets create a hectic atmosphere at every corner.