Things to do in Baku (Baki)
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Mado
Designer-hip Japanese restaurant where sushi comes with beautiful ceramic soy sauce jugs and luridly over-pink sushigari. Sadly, the limp maguro tastes somewhat bland.
reviewed
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Şahidlər Xiyabani (Martyr's Lane)
High above the city centre's southwest corner lies the sombre memorial, Şahidlər Xiyabani (Martyr's Lane) of Bakuvian victims of the Red Army's 1990 attack. Those martyrs were swiftly joined by many more Azeris who died in the Karabakh conflict. A small memorial to British and Commonwealth troops killed around Baku during WWI has been erected nearby, causing considerable controversy. After all, the British had been sent to prevent the Turkish invasion which most Azeris supported.
A small police post above it dissuades vandals. Even if graves are too maudlin to appeal, Şahidlər Xiyabani has a fine new Turkish-style mosque and at the edge of the gardens there's a viewpoin…
reviewed
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Carpet Museum
Formerly a Lenin Museum, this solidly neoclassical building now houses an interesting Carpet Museum, which charts the history of Azeri carpet making and includes over 1000 rare and beautiful rugs from Azerbaijan, as well as Iran and Dagestan. A guided tour (AZN3 extra) helps to put the designs in context and to explain the significance of their symbols. In the same building are the far less compelling Theatre Museum and Museum of Independence.
reviewed
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Muğam Club
A wonderfully atmospheric two-storey caravanserai offers alcove and courtyard dining options accompanied by impressive cabaret shows demonstrating tasters of various Azeri musical and dance styles. The Azeri food is excellent, but prices can be exorbitant (kebabs AZN12!). Often closed for private functions.
reviewed
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Bibi
By far the nicest place in Baku for Persian cuisine, the Bibi offers live but unobtrusive music in its spacious double dining hall with olde-worlde tulip-chandeliers and rush-matting to soften the ceilings. Try the kəşki badımcan (eggplant with Iranian whey; AZN4).
reviewed
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Scalini’s
Speedy, waistcoated waiters deliver perfect pastas with bucket-loads of parmesan and a selection of home-cooked breads in Baku’s most congenial Italian restaurant. The décor is upmarket bistro-style with a relaxed buzz, soaring high ceilings and great movie and Martini posters.
reviewed
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Çudo Peçka
Many bakeries offer stand-bars at which to eat snacks and cheap if long-stewed cups of tea or cocoa. The Çudo Peçka chain is ubiquitous, and its branch near Hotel Velotrek has seating. However, their system of pre-paying can be awkward if you don't speak Azeri.
reviewed
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Karvansara Restaurant
Choose from two 14th-century caravanserais, one offering atmospherically gloomy private stone cells, the other an intriguing cellar dining room. Prices aren’t outrageous but watch out for ‘extras’.
reviewed
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Faxri Xiyəbani Cemetery
The Faxri Xiyəbani Cemetery, where Heydar Әliyev’s grave is the first place that any dignitary is likely to be taken to on an official visit to Baku.
reviewed
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Maiden’s Tower
This tapering 29m stone tower is Baku’s foremost architectural icon. Its century of construction is the subject of much debate, though its present form is 12th century.
reviewed
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Philharmonia
The brilliant Philharmonia, originally built as an oil-boom-era casino, has an even grander interior and offers an eclectic (if unpredictable) concert programme.
reviewed
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Funicular
Get to Şahidlər Xiyabani by Funicular from the sea front, or marshrutka 39T or 177 from behind Bakı Soveti metro.
reviewed
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Azər-Ilmə Carpet Factory
A free tour of the impressive Azər-İlmə Carpet Factory is well worth the 20-minute drive, even if you don’t buy.
reviewed
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L’Aparté
Open all-hours with a phenomenally wide-ranging menu and surprisingly plush décor given the incredibly modest price range.
reviewed
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Museum of Independence
In the same building as the Carpet Museum is the far less compelling Museum of Independence.
reviewed
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Theatre Museum
In the same building as the Carpet Museum is the far less compelling Theatre Museum.
reviewed
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P
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XVII Әsr
Decorated with old hunting weapons, this cosy mid-market restaurant offers Talysh cuisine that goes well beyond the predictable nut-stuffed ləvəngi dishes. Delicious starters (AZN3 to AZN4 per plate) include XVII əsr qəlyanaltısı (stuffed dried fruit and walnut-coated chicken balls), qoz küküsü (a patchwork of omelette-like morsels) and incə salatı (layered egg-salad with cheese and fruit topping). There’s also an AZN7 bizniz lunch.
reviewed
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Şarq Әfsanәsi
A much more upmarket çay evi (teahouse) can charge entirely ludicrous sums (AZN6 to AZN20) for a pot of tea with samovar of water and a range of jams and fruit. The best such places tend to be indoors, with comparatively exotic interiors, qalyan (hubble-bubble water pipes) to smoke and possibly a belly dancing show, as at Şarq Әfsanәsi.
reviewed
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Fayton Club
This upmarket yet rustic stone-vaulted basement is decorated with handicrafts, şəbəkə (intricately carved, wood-framed, stained-glass windows) and an old cart in an almost-successful attempt to create a feel of 18th-century Azerbaijan. Classic Azeri foods are well made but unless you want the full-blast music show (AZN4 cover), get out before 8pm.
reviewed
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Mediterranea
The garden area is superbly located for summer dining in the shadow of the Maiden’s Tower while the sleekly modernised caravanserai-covered courtyard interior is a tempting choice on colder nights. The mostly European main dishes aren’t especially memorable but mezze starters are excellent and drinks arrive with complimentary cheese and olives.
reviewed
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Tonqal
Ivy-draped carts in overgrown patches of woodland create a delightfully rustic garden atmosphere that’s incongruous for the suburban setting. However the only menu is on its website and the many extras can be extremely pricey (plate of fruit AZN20!); plus the only drinking water served is imported.
reviewed
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Iskəndər
The spacious Iskəndər, a Turkish restaurant, which serves inexpensive precooked meals in pleasantly semi-grand arch-vaulted premises. Point at what you fancy from the heated display of precooked meals (AZN4 to AZN6 including side dish) or order pricier made-to-order dishes.
reviewed
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Divan
The stylish Divan, a Turkish restaurant, which serves inexpensive precooked meals in pleasantly semi-grand arch-vaulted premises. Point at what you fancy from the heated display of precooked meals (AZN4 to AZN6 including side dish) or order pricier made-to-order dishes.
reviewed
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Rostropovich Museum
For foreign visitors a popular choice is the Rostropovich Museum, given the international fame of the Bakuvian cellist and conductor Mstislav Rostropovich, who lived here as a child. However, it’s of very limited interest to nonspecialists and no English is spoken.
reviewed
