Things to do in Bariloche
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El Boliche de Alberto
It’s worth dining at this esteemed parrilla simply to see the astonished look on tourists’ faces when a slab of beef the size of a football lands on the table; it’s the AR$46 bife de chorizo (the AR$35 portion is plenty). If the place is full, check out the nearby sister restaurants at Elfein 49 and 158.
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Pura Vida Patagonia
Pura Vida Patagonia offers kayaking trips on the Lago Nahuel Huapi, ranging from half-day stints to overnight camp-n-kayak trips, custom designed to match your skill level.
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Cerro Catedral
Nahuel Huapi's ski resort, Cerro Catedral, was once South America's trendiest, and has been superseded only by Las Leñas (near Mendoza) and resorts in Chile. Las Leñas has far superior snow (dry powder), but it lacks Catedral's strong point: views. There's nothing like looking over the shimmering lakes of Nahuel Huapi from its snowy slopes.
There's a good mix of easy, intermediate and advanced ski runs, with steep advanced runs at the top and some tree runs near the base. Lift lines can be long at this very popular resort, but the capacity is substantial enough and waiting time is generally not excessive.
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Cabalgatas Carol Jones
Most travel agencies along Av Bartolomé Mitre offer horseback riding trips. For something special, contact the amiable Carol Jones at Cabalgatas Carol Jones, who offers half-day horseback riding from her family estancia outside of town. The price includes transport to/from town and an excellent asado outside. She also offers multi-day pack trips by horse. Carol speaks English. All trips require a minimum of two people.
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Tarquino
Built entirely of Patagonian cypress, this esteemed restaurant resembles a hobbit house with its wood stairway, carved wooden doorway, fireplace and troll-like architecture. The small menu is almost entirely parrillada (including a delicious cordero, or grilled lamb), though a pasta and a trout dish grace the menu as well. One of Bariloche’s best.
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Familia Weiss
A popular family restaurant offering good-value regional specialties such as venison, trout and goulash. The picture menu’s handy for the Spanish-challenged, there’s a good atmosphere and nightly live music.
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Volcán Lanín
Dominating the view in all directions along the Chilean border, the snowcapped cone of 3776m (12,388ft) Volcán Lanín is the centerpiece of Parque Nacional Lanín, which extends 150km (93mi) from Parque Nacional Nahuel Haupi in the south to Lago Ñorquinco in the north. The northern approach to Volcán Lanín, which straddles the Argentine-Chilean border, is the shortest, and usually the earliest in the season to open for hikers and climbers.
Before climbing Lanín, ask permission at the Lanín National Park office or, if necessary, from the Gendarmería (border guards) in Junín. It's obligatory to show equipment, including plastic tools, crampons, ice axe and clothing - in…
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Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi
One of Argentina's most visited national parks, Nahuel Huapi occupies 750,000 hectares (1,853,290 acres) in the mountainous southwestern Neuquén and western Río Negro provinces. The park's centerpiece is Lago Nahuel Huapi, a glacial remnant over 100km (62mi) long that covers more than 500 sq km (193 sq mi). The lake is the source of the Río Limay, a major tributary of the Río Negro.
Rafting and kayaking on the Río Limay has become increasingly popular in recent years. The best time to be on the rivers is November through February, though you can raft October through Easter.
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Cavernas del Viejo Volcán
Cavernas del Viejo Volcán is a cave complex, 15km east of Bariloche, which was inhabited for nearly 8000 years by the Mapuche and other tribes. Parts of the cave feature reasonably well-preserved rock-art specimens. A guided tour is compulsory, and takes you 130m into Cerro Leones then out onto the summit where there is a lookout with majestic views of the surrounding countryside. It is possible (but not a whole lot cheaper) to make your own way there on public transport. Either way, reservations are essential – contact the Bariloche office for more information.
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eXtremo Sur
In business since 1991, eXtremo Sur offers several trips on the Río Manso: the Manso Inferior (class II to III, AR$195 per person) is suitable for all ages; the Manso a la Frontera (class III to IV, AR$250 per person, ages 14 and up) is a fun and beautiful stretch of the river before the Chilean border. There’s also a three-day Expedición Río Manso (class III to IV, AR$1350 to AR$1500), where you camp riverside at excellent facilities. For the last, asados and all food and drink are included in the price.
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Monte Tronador
To the west, a ridge of high peaks separates Argentina from Chile; the tallest is 3554m (11,627ft) Monte Tronador, an extinct volcano that still lives up to its name (which means 'Thunderer') when blocks of ice tumble from its glaciers. During the summer months, wildflowers blanket the alpine meadows. Climbers intending to scale Tronador should anticipate a three- to four-day technical climb requiring experience on rock, snow and ice.
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Baruzzi Deportes
Day passes run between AR$90 and AR$150, depending on the season. If you need lessons, stop into the ski schools at Cerro Catedral or Club Andino Bariloche. Two-hour private lessons run at about AR$330. For rental equipment, try Baruzzi Deportes. Sets of skis, boots and poles rent for between AR$54 and AR$70, and snowboarding gear between AR$75 and AR$98 per day, depending on the season.
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Martín Pescador
Day passes run between AR$90 and AR$150, depending on the season. If you need lessons, stop into the ski schools at Cerro Catedral or Club Andino Bariloche. Two-hour private lessons run at about AR$330. For rental equipment, try Martín Pescador. Sets of skis, boots and poles rent for between AR$54 and AR$70, and snowboarding gear between AR$75 and AR$98 per day, depending on the season.
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Dirty Bikes
Bicycles are ideal for the Circuito Chico (though this 60km loop demands endurance) and other trips near Bariloche; most roads are paved and even the gravel roads are good. Mountain-bike rental, including gloves and helmet, costs AR$40 to AR$60 per day at a number of places. Try Dirty Bikes. Guided tours with bilingual guides run at about AR$180 per day.
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Bikeway
Bicycles are ideal for the Circuito Chico (though this 60km loop demands endurance) and other trips near Bariloche; most roads are paved and even the gravel roads are good. Mountain-bike rental, including gloves and helmet, costs AR$40 to AR$60 per day at a number of places. Try Bikeway. Guided tours with bilingual guides run at about AR$180 per day.
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Los Tehuelches
The best-value parrilla in Bariloche, this no-frills place attracts a lot more locals than tourists. The range of set meals is impressive and a bife de chorizo (sirloin) with salad for AR$25 is nothing to be sneered at in this town. The house red is not recommended, except for fans of the very rough hangover.
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Bariloche Bikes
Bicycles are ideal for the Circuito Chico (though this 60km loop demands endurance) and other trips near Bariloche; most roads are paved and even the gravel roads are good. Mountain-bike rental, including gloves and helmet, is available at Bariloche Bikes. Guided tours with bilingual guides are also on offer.
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Tren a Vapor
Tren a Vapor runs full-day trips (a 40km circuit) in a 5-wagon steam train built in 1912, stopping for photo ops at a bridge on the river Ñirihau, Perito Moreno station, Laguna Los Juncos and Cerro Elefante. Buy tickets at the train station near the bus terminal.
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La Mexicana
Bariloche’s first chocolate store, started by the Ritter family in 1948, still produces delicious chocolates and fine dulces (jams). It’s still owned by the same family, though the cocoa beans are no longer imported from Mexico, but from Ecuador and Brazil.
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Adventure Center
Adventure Center offers four-day trips down the fabled RN 40 as far as El Calafate for AR$500 per person. Trips run from the end of September to April. Prices include accommodation, but national park entries and food are separate.
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Museo de la Patagonia
The Museo de la Patagonia is filled with archaeological and ethnographic materials, lifelike stuffed animals and enlightening historical evaluations on such topics as Mapuche resistance to the Conquest of the Desert.
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Map Room
A cozy little pub-restaurant with a good range of beers and some interesting menu items. The American breakfast (AR$28) is the real thing – a real belly-buster. Check out the ‘after work’ happy hours, when beers are half price.
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Arbol
For the latest in Patagonian fashion, drop by this Bariloche original, which produces beautifully designed fleeces, woolens, hats and jackets, as well as ceramics and decorative pieces. It has some beautiful clothing for women.
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La Fonda del Tio
You won't find student crowds or primped ski bunnies at this modest local favorite, which whips out massive portions of hearty food for a very local crowd. A must if you're on a budget or feeling tired of the tourist scene.
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La Trattoria de la Famiglia Bianchi
Finally, an Italian restaurant that offers something a little different. Excellent, creative pastas, a good range of meat dishes and some wonderful risottos, with ingredients such as seafood and wild mushrooms (AR$37).
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