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Satun Province

The Andaman's southernmost region, Satun was until recently mostly overlooked, but that’s all changed thanks to the dynamic white sands of Ko Lipe – a one-time backpacker secret turned mainstream beach getaway. Beyond Ko Lipe, the rest of the province passes by in the blink of an eye, as visitors rush north to Ko Lanta or south to Pulau Langkawi (Malaysia). Which means, of course, that they miss the untrammelled beaches and sea caves of Ko Tarutao, the rugged trails and ribbon waterfalls of Ko Adang, the rustic beauty of Ko Bulon Leh and easy-going Satun itself.

Largely Muslim in make-up, Satun has seen little of the political turmoil that plagues the fellow Muslim majority provinces of neighbouring Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat. Around 60% of inhabitants speak Yawi or Malay as a first language, and the few humble wát in the region are vastly outnumbered by mosques.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Satun Province.

  • See

    Ko Tarutao Marine National Park

    This 51-island marine national park, covered with well-preserved virgin rainforest teeming with fauna and surrounded by healthy coral reefs and radiant white beaches, is one of the most exquisite and unspoilt regions in Thailand. Established in 1974, it's the country's second marine national park. Here you might spot dusky langurs, crab-eating macaques, mouse deer, wild pigs, sea otters, fishing cats, tree pythons, water monitors, Brahminy kites, sea eagles, hornbills, reef egrets and kingfishers. The park's main accommodation consists of small, ecofriendly, government-run cabins and longhouses. You can camp in places, but you'll likely find monkeys and other animals going through your tent in search of food. Pressure from big developers to build resorts on the islands has so far been ignored, though concessions were made for the filming of the American reality-TV series Survivor in 2002. Rubbish on the islands is a problem – removal of beach and visitor rubbish only happens sporadically, though successful Trash Hero clean-ups are improving things. Do your part and tread lightly. Ko Tarutao is the biggest and second-most visited island in the group (after Ko Lipe). It's home to the park headquarters and most of the government-run accommodation. There are no foreign-exchange facilities at Ko Tarutao – you can change cash and travellers cheques at travel agencies in Pak Bara, and there are ATMs in Pak Bara and La-Ngu. Most travellers choose to stay on Ko Lipe, which, despite being part of the park, has rapidly become a popular and paved resort island full of tourist facilities and hotels. Curiously, the island has managed to evade the park’s protection because it is home to communities of chow lair (sea gypsies, also spelt chao leh), making it exempt from the zero-development laws. Long-tail-boat tours to outlying islands can be arranged through travel agencies in Satun or Pak Bara, through the national park headquarters on Ko Tarutao, or through resorts and long-tail-boat operators on Ko Lipe.

  • See

    Toe-Boo Cliff

    Behind park headquarters at Ao Pante Malacca, on the northwest side of the island, a steep 500m (20-minute) trail winds through the jungle below a limestone karst dripping with precipitation, then climbs a series of stone-cut steps to this dramatic rocky outcrop. From here there are fabulous views across Ko Tarutao towards Ko Adang and other surrounding isles.

  • See

    Hat Sunset

    With its slender strip of golden sand, gentle jungle-covered hills and serene bay that spills into the Adang Strait on the western side of the island, Hat Sunset has a different feel to Lipe's other beaches. During high season (November to April), it's something of a retreat from the more crowded beaches. In low season (May to October) it's very quiet.

  • See

    Hat Sunrise

    Hat Sunrise, a sublime long stretch of powder-fine sand, runs along Ko Lipe's east coast and is the best beach on the island. From its northernmost point, you'll have spectacular Ko Adang views. The southern end is home to upmarket resorts. During low season (May to October) the line-up of boats and long-tails along the beachfront crowds out swimmers.

  • See

    Tham Jara-Khe

    The large stream flowing inland from Ao Pante Malacca, on northwest Ko Tarutao, leads to Tham Jara-Khe, once home to deadly saltwater crocodiles. The cave is navigable for 1km at low tide and can be visited on long-tail tours (500B) from Ao Pante Malacca's jetty.

  • See

    Ao Molae

    Quiet, wonderfully secluded and with white sands, Ao Molae is the pick of Ko Tarutao's beaches. Behind it is a ranger station, bungalows and a campsite, all a (very) hilly 4km walk/cycle south of Ao Pante Malacca.

  • See

    Ko Usen

    Ko Usen, one of the little islands opposite Hat Sunrise, has some good coral. Most resorts rent out mask-and-snorkel sets and fins (100B to 200B). Take care with long-tail boats, which don't always spot snorkellers and swimmers.

  • See

    Ko Kra

    There’s good coral around Ko Kra, one of the little islands opposite Hat Sunrise, but be aware of, and take care around, oncoming long-tail boats. Most resorts rent out mask-and-snorkel sets and fins for 100B to 200B.

  • See

    Chado Cliff

    There are great views from Chado Cliff, a 30-minute hike above the main beach. Apparently pirates plotted attacks on commercial ships from this viewpoint.