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One of the largest and most beautiful atolls in French Polynesia, Fakarava is the stuff of South Seas fantasy. Heavenly white and pink sand, ruffled coconut trees and an unbelievable palette of lagoon blues are the norm here. The atmosphere is supremely relaxed and the infrastructure is quite good, with an assortment of well-run pensions.
Fakarava is a great place to unwind, but for those looking for more than a suntan, it offers a number of high-energy distractions. The fantastic diving and snorkelling are legendary among divers, who come for a truly exhilarating experience in the two passes.
Whatever your inclination, one thing is sure: after several days here, you’ll find it difficult to pack and leave.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Fakarava.
Village
Most islanders live in Rotoava village at the northeastern end of the atoll, 4km east of the airport. Aside from Rangiroa’s Avatoru, this is the most developed and busiest town in the Tuamotus, but it’s still pretty quiet by most people’s standards. With only a few streets, a couple of churches and stores, a town hall and a school, it’s easy to explore.
Beach
A bit of a local’s secret, Plage du PK9 is – you guessed it – 9km west of Rotoava (go past the airport and follow the dirt track towards the northern pass; at the PK9 marker, take the path to the left). It’s a thin, laid-back stretch of white coral sand backed by palms and lapped by sparkling turquoise waters. It’s equally good for sunning and swimming and there’s excellent snorkelling not far offshore. Bring plenty of water. Beware of falling coconuts.
Beach
A double crescent of dreamy beaches split by a narrow spit of white-and-pink coral sands, Les Sables Roses seems to come right out of central casting for tropical ideals. The turquoise water laps both sides of the sandy strip and there’s only one boat: yours. It’s perfect for relaxing, swimming and evening up your sunburn. It’s near the southernmost tip of the atoll, not far from Tetamanu, and is reached only on lagoon-excursion boats.
Natural Feature
Simply divine. Near the northwestern corner of Fakarava, Lagon Bleu features an indescribably lovely stretch of white-sand coral beach, turquoise-blue water, palm trees leaning over the shore – and not a soul in sight. It's a fantastic place for a picnic or a bout of snorkelling and swimming. You’ll need to take a boat tour to get to Lagon Bleu. One proviso: it’s usually nono (gnat)-infested.
Village
A handful of inhabitants also live in Tetamanu village, a tiny settlement on the edge of Tumakohua Pass, which is as backwater as backwater gets (despite the growing numbers of divers who stay in the nearby pensions). It has a cute coral chapel built in the 19th century and an old graveyard with coral tombstones.
Lighthouse
This photogenic 15m-tall grey turret (dating from 1957) looks as if it’s on loan from a medieval castle. The lighthouse is no longer in operation. To get here, follow the road to the airport and look for PK2.5 (point kilométrique), from where a dirt track leads to the lighthouse.
Archaeological Site
This partly restored marae built of coral slabs sits in a coconut grove beside a lovely strip of coral sand, about 400m past Plage du PK9. The beach offers shimmering waters and is great for sunbathing, picnicking, swimming and snorkelling. Beware of falling coconuts.
Natural Feature
The PK10.5 marks the end of the dirt road, just on the edge of the phenomenal Garuae Pass. By incoming or outgoing current, the pass gets really rough, with waves that can easily exceed 2m in the middle of the pass.