Canary Islands
Scented pine forests, haunting volcanoes, lunar-like landscapes, secret sandy coves, miles of Sahara-style dunes, beach-hugging resorts – the beautiful, unique Canary Islands wear many tantalising hats.
Otherworldly Landscapes
Marvel at the pine-forested peaks of Gran Canaria’s mountainous interior, the tumbling waterfalls of La Palma or the subtropical greenery of La Gomera’s Parque Nacional de Garajonay. Then contrast all this lushness with the extraordinary bare flatlands flanking Tenerife’s El Teide, the surreal party of colours glittering across Lanzarote’s lava fields, the gentle flower-filled hillsides of El Hierro, and Fuerteventura’s endless cacti-sprinkled plains. The Canary Islands' near-perfect temperatures mean that, year-round, you can soak up fantastical, varied landscapes otherwise only found by crossing continents.
The Great Outdoors
It's this very diversity that makes outdoor pursuits such an easily accessible and key pleasure of the Canaries. Hike the many footpaths criss-crossing the islands, from meandering coastal trails to challenging mountain treks to tranquil forest walks; go diving or snorkelling in blissfully warm waters inhabited by more than 350 species of fish (and the odd shipwreck); or pump up the adrenaline by riding the wind and the waves – kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing and paragliding are all big here. Then slow things down with horse rides, boat trips, kayaking and paddle-boarding jaunts or beachfront yoga.
Art & Architecture
Contrary to many expectations, the Canary Islands are immensely rich in both original art and architecture – sometimes you just need to know where to look. The spectacular surrealist canvases of world-acclaimed painter Óscar Domínguez grace his Tenerife homeland; the enormous abstract sculptures of Martín Chirino are impossible to miss on Gran Canaria; and César Manrique's inspired 'interventions' pop up all over Lanzarote (and beyond). Everywhere, seek out the emblematic wooden balconies, leafy internal patios and cheerily painted facades that typify vernacular Canarian architecture, and pop into charming palm-shaded churches, many of which date back several centuries.
Or Just Relax...
If your perfect trip is all about that enticing combo of R&R, the Canaries are the ultimate destination. The most obvious spot to kick back on is the beach, and you'll be spoilt for choice – from Fuerteventura's soft rolling dunes to Tenerife's sandy golden arcs to Isla Graciosa's wild blonde strands. Yoga, meditation, massages and a world of other self-care therapies abound across the archipelago, and thalassotherapy is something of a local speciality. Alternatively, nothing soothes the soul like relaxing over a tropical cocktail or a glass of local wine as the sun sinks into the Atlantic.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Canary Islands.
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Cueva Pintada Museum & Archaeological Park
Discovered by a local farmer in the late 19th century, this is one of Gran Canaria's most important pre-Hispanic archaeological sites: a cave adorned with geometric shapes, possibly thought to relate to the lunar and solar calendars (though this is debated). It's also the most accessible of the island's archaeological sites, situated not halfway up a cliff but right in the heart of town (it is wheelchair-friendly also). The highlight is the cave itself, fully explained on the tour. The museum complex features videos and reconstructions shedding light onto local life before the conquistadors arrived, and showcases the 5000-sq-metre excavated site where the remains of cave houses have been dug out from the volcanic rock (around which you can walk). Videos in various languages offer pointers about the history of the site, but you will need to tag along on the 90-minute tour (in Spanish, English, French and German) to see the painted cave itself from within the confines of a glass room and to be in a position to ask questions. The colours and triangular shapes and patterns on the wall have deteriorated considerably but are still clear enough to admire. Try to book in advance via the website or over the phone – there is a limit of 20 people on each tour so you might be disappointed if you just show up. In order to prevent further deterioration to the paintings, the cave is open at numerous set times and viewing periods can be brief. In the decade after 1972 the colours of the pigments were reduced by a shocking 50% due to the constant stream of visitors (just the effects of human breath were enough to do considerable damage, hence the enclosed viewing experience). After seeing the wall paintings, you can explore the interiors of some recreated dwellings, strewn with animal skins. A combination €6 ticket is available that includes the Casa Museo Antonio Padrón, and the Casa-Museo Tomás Morales in Moya.
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Casa-Museo de Colón
This fascinating museum documents Columbus’ voyages and features exhibits on the Canary Islands’ historical role as a staging post for transatlantic shipping. Don’t miss the large section of model galleons ('La Niña') on the ground floor, which particularly impresses children with its working detail. The crucifix is said to have come from Columbus' ship. In the next room are models of all three of Columbus' ships: La Niña, La Pinta and the Santa María. Rooms five and six contain historical maps and facsimiles of ancient maps, many from the early 16th century. Look out for the facsimile of the 'Universalis Cosmographia' map by the German cartographer Martin Waldseemüller, which was conceived in 1507 and is staggeringly accurate for its time. Astrolabes are also on display. A large collection of artwork dwells upstairs, as well as a diorama of old Las Palmas with buttons for illuminating specific buildings and edifices. After descending the long stairs into the basement you are rewarded with displays on ancient South American pottery and history. The building is a superb example of Canarian architecture, built around two lovely balconied patios, complete with fountains, palm trees and colourful macaws (the last make for excellent photo ops, but watch out, they can peck). The exterior is a work of art itself, with some showy plateresque (silversmith-like) elements, combined with traditional heavy wooden balconies. Although called Columbus’ House (it’s possible he stopped here in 1492), most of what you see dates from the time this building was the opulent residence of Las Palmas’ early governors. Check the website for details on free-entry days, including the first weekend of each month.
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Pico del Teide
The cable car provides the easiest way to get up to the peak of El Teide. The views are great – unless a big cloud is covering the peak, in which case you won’t see a thing. On clear days the volcanic valley spreads out majestically below, and you can see the islands of La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro peeking up from the Atlantic. It takes just eight minutes to zip up 1200m. Each cable car holds around 35 passengers and leaves every 10 minutes, but get here early (before noon) because at peak times you could be queuing for two hours if you haven't prebooked. Booking your ticket online will indeed save you pain: you'll need to purchase a slot at a specific time (aiming for the earliest slot is advisable so you can find parking, otherwise you may find yourself stranded if you are driving; alternatively factor in time finding somewhere to park into your schedule). Also, a few words of warning: those with heart or lung problems should stay on the ground, as oxygen is short up here in the clouds. It’s chilly, too, so no matter what the weather’s like below, bring a jacket. Be aware that weather conditions often force the early closure of the cable car – strong winds can whip up suddenly and the cable car can stop running with very little notice. This is normally not a huge problem for casual visitors who’ve caught the cable car up the mountain as a park warden based at the top cable-car station will inform everyone that it’s about to stop running, but for hikers climbing all the way up the mountain and intending to take the cable car back down it can be a very serious issue indeed.
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Fundación César Manrique
Upon returning definitively to Lanzarote, César Manrique built his spectacular house and creative centre, Taro de Tahíche, into the lava fields just outside Tahíche. It’s a real James Bond-style hideaway, with whitewashed walls, a sunken pool, bursts of bougainvillea and cacti, and white- and red-leather seats slotted into cavelike dens; upper levels are inspired by traditional Lanzarote architecture, while subterranean rooms are crafted from five huge air bubbles left by flowing lava. Manrique lived here from 1968 to 1988. Beyond the lava bubbles, there’s an entire gallery devoted to Manrique plus a tiny garden cafe next to a vibrant 1992 mural. Minor works by some of Manrique's contemporaries, including Picasso, Chillida, Miró, Sempere and Tàpies, are also on show. From Sala 10, through the large picture window you'll see a striking modern building semi-submerged into the lava field and topped by a series of cupolas; formerly owned by a wealthy architect from Tenerife, it was bought by the foundation in early 2011, but remains closed to the public. The Fundación is 200m west of the roundabout at the southern end of town; Tahíche is 5km north of Arrecife. Buses 7, 9 and 10 (€1.40, 15 minutes), among others, stop here between Arrecife and Teguise.
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Parque Nacional de Timanfaya
Lanzarote's most spectacular sight, the eerie 51-sq-km Parque Nacional de Timanfaya sprawls around the Montañas del Fuego (Mountains of Fire) formed by the calamitous six-year eruption that rocked the south of the island from 1730. Almost entirely bereft of life – apart from 200 species of lichen – this bare moonscape is an otherworldly vision in copper, black and grey, with thin soil trickling down volcanic cones to meet fields of frozen-in-time lava and a boiling magma chamber 4km beneath the surface. The park's main reception point is 2km west of the LZ67 (8km northeast of Yaiza) at the Islote de Hilario, home to a Manrique-designed lookout and restaurant. Queues to get into the park build up from 10am onwards, so arrive early. Unless you've prebooked a guided hike or fancy tackling the 12km, four-hour Ruta del Litoral walk form El Golfo, the only way to see the park is on the exciting 14km Ruta de los Volcanes bus tour. The 102-sq-km Parque Natural de los Volcanes surrounds the national park to the south, east and north.
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Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves
For splendid views down the valley to Santa Cruz, put aside time to tackle the 4km uphill hike north of town to La Palma’s main object of pilgrimage, the 17th-century Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves with its fabulously ornate interior. The wooden Mudéjar-carved ceiling, sculptures and sparkling crystal chandeliers are the precursor to the 82cm-tall Virgin Mary herself, surrounded by a glittering altar. The 14th-century sculpture is the oldest religious statue in the Canary Islands and the object of deep veneration. The sculpture was believed to have been brought by merchants before the arrival of the Spaniards; every five years she is carried down to Santa Cruz in a grand procession. The church sits in a peaceful spot in the hills surrounded by trees and greenery, all in typical Canarian colonial style with balconies and simple facades. The walk up is quite steep going, so take some water. By car, follow signs from Avenida Marítima where it crosses the barranco, then turn right on the Carretera de las Nieves (LP-101) and continue winding up the hillside until you see signs for the sanctuary; the curve-filled 5km trip takes nearly 15 minutes. Bus 10 (€2, approximately 20 minutes) comes up hourly from the town centre from 6.45am until 8.45pm, less frequently on weekends. There’s a bar-restaurant in the square right by the church. If you take the steep path to the right (as you face it) of the souvenir shop opposite the church, it takes you to a higher position to photograph the mountains and also to find a track that leads to excellent views over the city below. Other stunning views across the barranco (river gorge) valley to Santa Cruz await down the road away from the church to just before the first bend.
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Playa de Cofete
This is the main beach in far-flung Cofete, near the southern tip of the island and the main draw on the island for many. It's huge, quite beautiful and entirely undeveloped, with fine honey-coloured sand and a rumbling backdrop of relentless Atlantic rollers and the turquoise ocean. Think twice about swimming here: the waves and currents are more formidable than the generally calmer waters on the other side of the island. If you know what you're doing and have your own gear, it's a good spot for surfers. Note the signs asking you to report any evidence of turtle activity on the sands. If you see signs of turtle tracks, nesting turtles or even injured turtles, then report this by calling 112. Do not touch turtles or turtle eggs (unless you discover an injured turtle, then the advice is given to move the animal into the shade). Look out for the ancient, sand-engulfed Cemetery (Cementerio del Cofete) near the beach, which is quite a picture. The simple graves are marked with small wooden crosses and piles of stones; the cemetery is bordered by a low wall that is also engulfed in sand, while the main door is similarly swamped by a huge dune (so climb over the wall). The cemetery is signposted. Away from the beach and up the hillside stands Villa Winter, an intriguing sight with a shadowy past. The building is cloaked in a mix of imaginative myth and hearsay: some people maintain the German-built mansion was constructed as a secret hideout for Nazi top brass. Get here early in the morning to have the beach entirely to yourself. Sunsets are lovely, but weigh up the danger of returning along the treacherous mountain road at night.
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Villa Winter
This impressive structure, with its castle-like turret, was built by German engineer Gustav Winter in the 1930s. Rumours linking Winter to the Nazi party have never been confirmed, but conspiracy theories regarding Villa Winter abound. You can drive your car up to the mansion and then walk the last 100m or so. A caretaker lives here and for a small tip he may show you around the house, though when we last visited there was just a donation box left out at the entrance. Some think the house was built as a secret hideout for high-ranking Nazis, including Hitler himself. Others have suggested that Cofete was the location of a secret U-boat base, that there are secret tunnels through the mountain and that it was in fact built as a clinic to specialise in plastic surgery for German generals requiring a new look. Some visitors have said that they've been allowed into the basement, where they've seen shackles, cells and bullet holes, but like pretty much everything about the Villa Winter, you can't be too sure. The basement was off-limits when we last popped by, as was the 'kitchen' where it's claimed the face-altering sessions took place. Gustav Winter built the nearby and defunct Jandia Airstrip, possibly to fly in the top brass and what looks like a helipad can be observed just downhill of the villa. Amid all the stories, however, there's really only one thing that you can be absolutely certain of: Villa Winter is a fascinating place that will have you digging deeper for the truth. Or at least for a few more yarns…
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Catedral de Santa Ana & Museo Diocesano de Arte Sacro
The spiritual heart of the city, this brooding, grey cathedral was begun in the early 15th century, soon after the Spanish conquest, but took 350 years to complete. The neoclassical facade contrasts with the sunlight-through-stained-glass-dappled interior, which is a fine example of what some art historians have named Atlantic Gothic, with lofty columns that seem to mimic the palm trees outside. You can also admire several paintings by Juan de Miranda, the Canary Islands’ most-respected 18th-century artist. Your entry ticket also includes admission to the sacred art museum, set on two levels around the Patio de los Naranjos. The collection is a fairly standard array of religious art and memorabilia, including centuries-old manuscripts, wooden sculptures, sacred art and other ornaments, but the setting is lovely – and fragrant with the scent of orange blossom in springtime. Once you've explored within, take the lift (€1.50; 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday and 10am to 1.30pm Saturday) to the top of the bell tower for a stunning wide-angle view of the surrounding city and coast. Beyond the cathedral is an expansive and good-looking plaza, which provides a dramatic setting for highly photogenic images of the entirety of the church facade against the (usually) blue sky.
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Best in Travel 2021: El Hierro
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