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The Bolivian Oriente is not what you generally see in Bolivian tourist brochures. This tropical region, the country’s most prosperous, has a palpable desire to differentiate itself from Bolivia’s traditional highland image. The region’s agriculture boom has brought about a rise in income and a standard of living unequaled by any other Bolivian province.
Santa Cruz is Bolivia’s most populous city, with a cosmopolitan population, yet it retains a small-town atmosphere. From here you can visit Jesuit mission towns, tour pre-Inca ruins near the village of Samaipata or embark on a revolutionary pilgrimage to where Che Guevara met his maker around Vallegrande. Prefer nature? There are miles of hikes and tons of wildlife at Parque Nacional & Área de Uso Múltiple Amboró, the so-called 'elbow of the Andes' where the ecosystems of the Chaco, the Amazon Basin and the Andes meet.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Santa Cruz & Gran Chiquitania.
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The mystical site of El Fuerte exudes such pulling power that visitors from all over the world come to Samaipata just to climb the hill and see the remains of this pre-Inca site. A designated Unesco World Heritage Site since 1998, El Fuerte occupies a hilltop about 10km from Samaipata and offers breathtaking views across the valleys. Allow at least two hours to fully explore the complex, and take sunscreen and a hat with you.
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San José has the only stone Jesuit mission church and merits a visit even if you miss all the others. Although the main altar is nearly identical to those in other nearby missions and has vague similarities to churches in Poland and Belgium, the reason behind its unusual exterior design remains unclear.
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The church of San Miguel's spiral pillars, carved wooden altar with a flying San Miguel, extravagant golden pulpit, religious artwork, toy-like bell tower and elaborately painted facade are simply superb. Although not designed by Martin Schmidt, the church does reflect his influence and is often considered the most beautiful of Bolivia’s Jesuit missions.
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A steep path leads down a hillside to the sheltered clearing where Che and 16 fellow guerrilla fighters evaded capture for 10 days until, on October 8, 1967, they were surrounded by troops and a gun battle ensued. A badly wounded Che surrendered and was taken to La Higuera. The Quebrada del Churo is 5km north of La Higuera on the road to Vallegrande; the starting point for the trail is signed. The hike takes around two hours. Bring water.
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The restored interior of this 1747 mission is particularly beautiful, and the original paintings and woodwork remain intact. The pulpit is covered with a layer of lustrous mica, the ceiling is made of reeds and the spiral pillars were carved from cuchi (ironwood) logs. If you find the church locked, look on the main door for the phone number of the key holder.
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Santa Cruz's lush botanical gardens, 12km east of the city center, make for a tranquil escape from the urban scene. Covering more than 200 hectares, the gardens feature woodland trails, a lake, a cactarium (cactus garden) and plenty of exotic plants. Climb the wooden viewing platform for vistas across the treetop canopy to the city skyline. The gardens are teeming with wildlife, too; look out for tortoises and sloths.
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Built in 1709, the elaborately restored cathedral on the east of the plaza has an overhanging roof supported by 121 huge tree-trunk columns and a similar bell tower. It is decorated with golden baroque designs depicting flowers, angels and the Holy Virgin. Outside mass times, access to the church is via a small museum, which displays interesting historical photos of the church before and after it was restored in the 1970s.
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This museum is inside the impressive Centro Cultural Ernesto Che Guevara, which was completed in 2016 in time for the 50th anniversary of Che's death the following year. It contains a photo-documentary of events leading to the capture of Che and of the days immediately afterward, featuring objects and artifacts that belonged to the guerrilla group. There is also a copy of Che's diary detailing his time in Bolivia.
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In 1995, 28 years after Che’s death, a soldier who carried out the burial revealed that Che's body lay beneath Vallegrande’s airstrip. After two years of searching, Che's body was discovered in 1997. The spot is marked by a mausoleum adorned with the smiling image of Che beaming out across the valley. The Bolivian and Cuban governments had him exhumed and officially reburied in Santa Clara, Cuba on October 17, 1997. The interior can only be visited by guided tour.