On the small size in terms of acreage for a Bolivian national park, Torotoro packs a memorable punch. Its geography showcases geology on an awe-inspiring scale. Beds of sedimentary mudstone, sandstone and limestone, bristling with marine fossils and – from drier periods – dinosaur footprints, have been twisted into otherworldly looking terrain, from caverns, valleys and rocky escarpments, that's explored on foot.
Dinosaur Tracks
If the Tyrannosaurus rex figure in the plaza or the dinosaur head sticking out of city hall or the pterodactyl-themed cafes weren't an obvious tell, Torotoro has become synonymous with paleontology. The village, which sits in a wide section of a 20km-long valley at an elevation of 2600m, is flanked by enormous, inclined mudstone rock formations bearing bipedal and quadrupedal dinosaur tracks (huellas) from the Cretaceous period (spanning 145 million to 65 million years ago).
As obvious as impressions on freshly laid concrete, tracks of both herbivorous and carnivorous species are all over the place; interpretative work remains unfinished. The closest are at Cerro Huayllas Dinosaur Tracks, at the entrance to the village, on the other side of the river. They're behind a locked fence so you'll need an official guide to enter (most people visit as part of the hike to Cañon de Torotoro and El Vergel). Above the water but below the road are the area’s largest tracks, made by an enormous quadruped dinosaur. Near here, just above the road, the angled plane of rock reveals a multitude of tracks, including a long set from a heavy quadrupedal dinosaur (possibly, an armadillo-like ankylosaurus).
Along the route to Umajalanta cave, the flat area known as the Carreras Pampa site has several excellent footprint sets made by three-toed bipedal dinosaurs, both herbivores and carnivores.
Cañon de Torotoro & El Vergel
Three kilometers from Torotoro, the ground drops away into an immense and spectacularly beautiful canyon, more than 250m deep. From the mirador at the top you can gaze along it, watching vultures wheeling. From here, following the diminishing canyon to the left, you come to a flight of 800 stairs that lead down to a 10m-high waterfall, El Vergel (also called Huacasenq’a, meaning ‘cow’s nostrils’ in Quechua), filled with incongruous mosses, vines and other tropical vegetation.
In addition to the mirador, there's a semicircle viewpoint pitched vertiginously out and over the canyon. The cliffsides are home to the critically endangered paraba frente roja (red-fronted macaw), which you have a good chance of seeing, or at least hearing. At the bottom, a crystal-clear river tumbles down through cascades and waterfalls, forming idyllic swimming pools. Be sure to pack a bathing suit if the weather's conducive or you don't mind a frigid plunge. Ask your guide to return via the longer alternative path, to avoid climbing the same 800 steps back to the top.
If walking and not going all the way to the falls, this is the least expensive of all the sights to visit.
Caverna de Umajalanta
The Río Umajalanta, which disappears beneath a layer of limestone approximately 22m thick, has formed the impressive Caverna de Umajalanta, of which 4.5km of passages have been explored. The entrance to this massive, gaping maw involves scrambling over truck-sized boulders and leap-frogging pools of water. Natural light fades at every step. By the time you switch on your headlamp, the descent takes on the feel of an Indiana Jones–type adventure.
Parts involve crawling and wriggling through extremely narrow, tight spaces, several short rope-assisted climbs and even a waterpark-like slide or two down slick rock formations. It's a moderately physical trip – absolutely great fun, though possibly problematic for the claustrophobic. Expect to get both wet and very dirty (wear long pants and nonslip shoes you don't mind getting wet). Inside are interesting stalagmite and stalactite formations and waterfalls, as well as a resident population of vampire bats. You eventually descend to a small underground lake and river, which is populated by small, white, completely blind catfish. The ascent tends to be less strenuous than the descent, as it takes a more direct route.
A guide is mandatory as it's easy to get lost, and helmets with headlamps and gloves are provided. The walk from the parking area to the official entrance, and beyond to the cavern itself, is a completely exposed, mostly uphill slog of a couple of kilometers. On the way, keep an eye out for several sections of dinosaur footprints.
Ciudad de Itas
Though the weirdly shaped set of caverns, the long-ago refuge of isolated communities (a few spots of rock art are the most visible evidence), are striking, they aren't the main reason to make the 21km, sometimes white-knuckle drive to Ciudad de Itas from Torotoro. It's the breathtaking views you should come for, which, at nearly 4000m, provide an expansive perspective on the unique geology of the region. Visible cross sections of sloping mountains appear in isolation like massive spaceships that have been abandoned for millennia. Guides point out uniquely shaped rock formations, scurrying viscacha (a rodent that resembles a rabbit) and soaring Andean condors.
It's a mildly strenuous hike with a couple of tricky spots that involve climbing and scrambling over boulders.
Turu Rumi
There really should be more of a warning. Turu Rumi, an amalgamation of strangely sculpted rock formations, is not the best choice for the faint of heart or for those who suffer from vertigo. To reach the summit, you need to take a small leap or large step, depending on your height, across a narrow chasm. On the ascent and then again descent. On our trip, without the assistance of a tall, long-limbed fellow hiker, one or two others would have been too anxious to try. You'll see Andean condors floating on thermals and horizon expanding views. El Mundo Verde Travel even offers rappelling.
Torotoro Town
This is a sleepy rural village. And therein lies its appeal. The biggest challenge when taking a leisurely stroll along its bumpy cobblestoned streets is the elevation gain from the Rio Rodeo at the northern edge of town. Accommodations, though fairly interchangeable, are concentrated within several blocks of the main plaza. Most charge around B$80 per person. Outside the high season, booking in advance isn't necessary and you can check out a few in person before deciding. Several recommended spots are outside the center (moto-taxi drivers to take you there hang out around the plaza).
The centrally located local market has a few comedores serving simple dishes like fried chicken for B$15, and a handful of cafes and casual restaurants with irregular hours are within a block or two of the plaza; however, it's not uncommon for many dishes to be unavailable. Café Cretácico caters to gringos with a lovely back garden, board games, artisanal beers and a gluten-free raclette (B$85).
The paleontology-minded should head to Sucre's Parque Cretácico to get up close to an even larger concentration of exposed dinosaur footprints.
