The ultimate week in Mallorca, Spain

While many visitors to Mallorca begin in Palma de Mallorca, the island's capital, I prefer kicking off my vacation at a more relaxed pace in Sóller. It’s a 35-minute drive from the airport and seems devoted to what makes me happy: a laid-back atmosphere, a beautifully preserved historic square where families and neighbors gather in the afternoon and chat into the night, and cobblestone streets that hide restaurants and traditional shops. I love the honey-colored buildings, that you’re never far from a view of the Serra de Tramuntana and that you can see the sun set on this side of the island. It's the perfect introduction to Mallorca. And with Sóller as your starting point, you still have easy access to Palma and the great beaches and villages.

• When to arrive: Mallorca is lovely year-round. Winter (December to March) sees many coastal resorts close, but it's perfect for hiking in the Serra de Tramuntana and Serra de Llevant, or enjoying cozy farm stays inland. The best time for most visitors is spring (March to May) or autumn (October and November), when the weather is mild and you can take part in a variety of activities. But I prefer the busy, vibrant summer (June to August), which is ideal for sun worshippers (that's me).

• How to get from the airport: If you're staying in Palma, taxis and the EMT A1 bus, which runs every 15 minutes during the day and every 30 minutes at night, are convenient options. During the summer, AeroTIB buses provide direct routes to major resort areas like Alcúdia, Ca’n Picafort and Cala Bona.

• How to get around: The public transportation system on the island is pretty good. Palma is well connected by buses and taxis, and TIB buses link the capital with major sights across the island. However, for the itinerary here, you're going to need a car. It's the easiest way to explore Mallorca's villages and hidden beaches, which are often only accessible by car.

• What to pack: A light and comfortable wardrobe is your best bet in summer. Opt for breathable fabrics that keep you cool during the day, and bring along a few dressier items for dining out. Locals typically dress up for meals (casual chic rather than gussied up) so you won't see many people in beachwear at the table – it's generally frowned upon. The west coast can experience occasional showers even in summer, so packing a light rain jacket is a smart move. Additionally, water shoes are a wise choice, since many of Mallorca's beaches are rocky, so they'll save your feet from unwanted cuts and scrapes.

Day 1: Sóller

How to spend the day

After you are settled at your hotel, take a pause at the canopy-draped Plaça de la Constitució for lunch at a cafe. Sant Bartomeu cathedral is also located here and is well worth a look for its impressive modernist facade and jaw-dropping altarpiece. Afterward, saunter along Carrer de sa Lluna; you'll find some old-school shops selling Mallorcan leather shoes and traditional home wares, like hand-stitched floral and antique-style linen napkins and tablecloths that make lovely mementos.

Dinner

There are no late-night bars in Sóller, and dinner service usually ends at 10:30pm, which is unusual for Spain. Plan to head out no later than 8pm if you don't want to feel rushed. Some of my favorite restaurants in Sóller, such as Ca'n Pintxo, are tucked away down side streets. Ask to be seated at one of the candlelit tables on the terrace to enjoy dishes like the catch of the day, presented as a silky ceviche marinated in citrus and passion fruit juices.

Day 2: Port de Sóller

Morning

Join the long line of sweet-toothed locals collecting their ensaïmadas (coils of flaky pastry dusted with sugar and sometimes filled with jam) from Forn del St Cristo. Mallorca is known for ensaïmadas, which pair perfectly with a bitter espresso.

How to spend the day

Hit the beach! Port de Sóller is a 10-minute drive away, or you can take the wooden tram, which is a very cute and fun way to travel. There are two beaches here, the main Port de Sóller beach and Platja d’en Repic. Both have calm, clear waters and lifeguards on duty. You can rent sun loungers, lockers and beach umbrellas for a flat day rate, and you're surrounded by restaurants and bars. I like Patiki Beach for lunch, but I usually bring bread, cheese and chorizo from the supermarket and make my own picnic. Plus, there are fruit vendors ready to slice up a dragon fruit or crack open a coconut whenever you fancy.

Dinner

Watch a stunning sunset at the beach, then make your way to Ses Oliveres for a fresh seafood dinner with sparkling wine and beautiful views of the bay.

Day 3: Fornalutx, Sa Calobra and Pollença

Morning

Start your day with a scenic 15-minute drive to Fornalutx, often hailed as one of Spain's most beautiful villages. The journey itself is a treat, on gentle, winding roads through lush greenery. Have breakfast at Cafè Sa Plaça in the heart of the village, then stroll through the knotted streets, admiring the beautiful window boxes that adorn each home. Stop at the gloriously old-fashioned Panaderia de Fornalutx to pick up some traditional Mallorcan pastries for a sweet treat on the way to your next adventure.

How to spend the day

Continue on the MA-10 highway, but brace yourself for the exhilarating (meaning terrifying) drive to Sa Calobra's beach. The MA-10, particularly as it snakes its way down to Sa Calobra, is famous for its hairpin turns and cliff-hugging roads. Nobody warned me that it's known as the wildest road on the island, so be prepared. The views are saga-worthy (take it slow), and Sa Calobra really is a stunner. The water is so clear that you can see the fish flit past even without a snorkel. Aim to get there by midmorning to secure a spot; relax on the pebble beach, or take a short walk to Torrent de Pareis gorge.

Dinner

End your day in Pollença, a quintessentially Balearic town an hour’s drive away, with wisteria-draped streets that once charmed Agatha Christie. As dusk settles, the town’s restaurants and bars come to life, and families gather in the squares for ice cream and wine. Nourish your soul with dinner at Amazo, a cozy spot offering hearty South American and Spanish fare. For a more relaxed drive home to Sóller, take the flatter and more straightforward MA-13 highway.

Day 4: Deià and Valdemossa

Morning

If you've ever searched for images of Mallorca on Instagram, you've definitely seen Deià. This charming and somewhat bougie spot is known for its artistic vibe, stunning scenery and celebrity holiday homes. It’s just a 20-minute drive from Sóller. Start with a visit to the poet Robert Graves' grave in the hilltop cemetery that overlooks the village. Then mosey to De Moniö for coffee; the minimalist-styled vegetarian cafe also sells handmade ceramics (perfect souvenirs). Drive down to Cala de Deià, where you can swim and have an early lunch at Ca's Patró March, a restaurant overlooking the water.

How to spend the day

Drive for 15 minutes to Valldemossa, and get lost in its labyrinthine streets on your way to visit Real Cartuja de Valldemossa, a museum dedicated to the composer Frédéric Chopin and writer George Sand. The building is an old monastery and former royal residence that dates back to 1310. Whether you've eaten or not, your lunchtime priority should be La Posada, where you can sip wine with wood-fired steaks or fresh salads at the outdoor terrace overlooking Valldemossa's sea of terra-cotta rooftops and olive groves.

Dinner

When the time is right, return to Sóller for your final dinner in town at C'an Llimona, a gorgeous family-run Italian restaurant that values quality produce. The pasta is made fresh every day and is exceptional.

Day 5: Palma

Morning

Before leaving Sóller for Palma, visit Ecovinyassa, a stunning citrus orchard just a 10-minute drive away, where the air is filled with the fragrance of oranges and lemons. It offers tours on weekdays (except Tuesdays) from 10am, and you can sample freshly picked fruit, explore the beautiful grounds and drink fresh juice under the shade of the citrus trees – a languid way to spend the morning.

How to spend the day

Move on to Palma, Mallorca's vibrant, art-filled capital. I like to stay in the Santa Catalina neighborhood. This is the home of every second Palma creative, so expect to find live music, dog-friendly bars and some sort of sweet treat on every street corner. Once you've checked in to your hotel, explore the historic Old Town – visiting the magnificent La Seu (Palma's grand cathedral) and browsing concept stores such as Rialto Living and La Pecera, as well as smaller spots like Mimbrería Vidal, to find that "Oh this? I picked it up in Mallorca" piece.

Dinner

Grab a seat near the open-plan kitchen at Vandal in Santa Catalina. The menu reads like a map of the world, with influences from South America, Asia and Europe. It's loud, so not the place for an intimate dinner, but it's fun. Spring for the plump and sweetly flavored beef bao and the burrata with fried zucchini flowers. Afterward, seek out the blink-and-you'll-miss-it jazz-infused speakeasy Door 13. You'll need a password to enter, which is usually shared on its social media.

Day 6: Cala Pi and Santanyí

Morning

Wake up early, grab some snacks and fresh fruit from a nearby supermarket (Spanish supermarkets are elite), and get ready for another beach day.

How to spend the day

Start the day at Cala Pi, a 45-minute drive from Palma. This is a traditional Mallorcan beach that I fell madly in love with – quiet and secluded (in the morning, at least) with no facilities. Bring towels, snorkels and snacks (hence the supermarket run). You have to walk down some pretty steep stairs to reach it. In the afternoon, you could drive 30 minutes to the practically Caribbean beach of Platja des Trenc or 40 minutes to Santanyí, a small, slow-paced town where even the air feels gentle. There's a beautiful beach here, too, and a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays (until 2pm).

Dinner

Stick around in Santanyí because it looks especially pretty during golden hour. Order fresh paella at one of the informal beach clubs for dinner or truffle pasta in the courtyard of Es Cantonet. It's about a 45-minute drive back to Palma.

Day 7: Palma

Morning

Don't leave without visiting the Santa Catalina market. It has pretty much all the fresh produce you can think of, and you can pick up local honey, marmalade, melt-in-the-mouth ham and Mallorcan wine to take home. While there, go to Can Frau for an early tapas lunch. It's a great place to dine alone at the long counter that wraps around the bar. It also serves some of the best paella in Palma.

How to spend the day

Continue to explore Palma's neighborhoods, or have a relaxing beach day at Portixol, a former fishing village that's now a trendy seaside suburb of Palma. End your trip with something a little bit different by paying a visit to one of Mallorca's glassware shops or warehouses. The island boasts a rich glassmaking tradition, and its oldest brand, Gordiola, has been around since 1719. While there is a shop in Palma, a trip to the workshop in Algaida is far more thrilling. Here you can witness the art of handblown glassmaking in the museum – the €8 entry fee is well worth it – and peruse and shop various products.

Dinner

In Palma, go to La Rosa Vermutería and Colmado, a vermouth bar with the most charming bartenders and a great selection of vermouth, beer and wine. Get the cheeseboard for dinner before heading to the airport. Adios!