Be aware that large gatherings, including those marking national and Muslim holidays are usually best avoided due to security concerns. But, should curiosity get the best of you, cover yourself according to the strictest local custom and check out these celebrations.

One of the most important holidays in Afghanistan is Nawroz (New Days), celebrated around March 21, on the spring equinox. It's an Islamic adaptation of far more ancient festivities, and was banned by the Taliban. Special foods are prepared and gifts are exchanged. Mazar-e Sharif hosts Afghanistan's biggest Nawroz celebrations. Revolution Day takes place on April 28, marking the mujaheddin's capture of Kabul, although many Afghans resent this celebration as it also marks the slide into the worst of the civil war. May 1 means Labor Day, followed by Remembrance Day for Martyrs and the Disabled on May 4. Independence Day (August 19) at least is celebrated with some fanfare. Ahmad Shah Massoud Day on September 9 is another equally martial - and potentially divisive - holiday.

The four major Islamic holidays are celebrated according to the lunar calendar, so check the dates and plan ahead. Eid al-Azha, the Feast of Sacrifice, marks the beginning of the hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca). Those who can afford it buy and slaughter an animal, then share the meat with friends and strangers. Moulid an-Nabi, the Prophet Mohammed's birthday, is much more low-key.

Ramazan (known as Ramadan elsewhere) is the month of fasting. From sunrise to sunset devout Muslims who can physically handle it are asked to go without food, drink, cigarettes and just about everything else. It's very rude to do any of these things in front of people observing this important holiday. Eid al-Fitr marks the end of Ramazan, when friends and families gather to eat, drink and, if so inclined, smoke cigarettes.

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