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An Quang Pagoda
The An Quang Pagoda gained some notoriety during the American War as the home of Thich Tri Quang, a powerful monk who led protests against the South Vietnamese government in 1963 and 1966. When the war ended you would have expected the communists to be grateful. Instead, he was placed under house arrest and later thrown into solitary confinement for 16 months. Thich Tri Quang was eventually released and is said to be still living at An Quang Pagoda.
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Binh Soup Shop
It might seem strange to introduce a noodle-soup restaurant as a sight, but there is more to Binh Soup Shop than just the soup. The Binh Soup Shop was the secret headquarters of the VC in Saigon. It was from here that the VC planned its attack on the US embassy and other places in Saigon during the Tet Offensive of 1968. One has to wonder how many US soldiers ate here, completely unaware that the staff were all VC infiltrators. By the way, the pho isn't bad here.
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Botanic Gardens
One of the first projects undertaken by the French after they established Cochinchina as a colony was to found the Botanic Gardens. Though once one of the finest such gardens in Asia, they're now merely a pleasant place for a stroll under giant tropical trees. The emphasis is on the fun fair, with kids' rides, a fun house, miniature train, house of mirrors and such.
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Cha Tam Church
President Ngo Dinh Diem and his brother Ngo Dinh Nhu took refuge in Cha Tam Church on 2 November 1963, after fleeing the Presidential Palace during a coup attempt. When their efforts to contact loyal military officers (of whom there was almost none) failed, Diem and Nhu agreed to surrender unconditionally and revealed where they were hiding.
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Cho Quan Church
Built by the French about 100 years ago, Cho Quan Church is one of the largest churches in HCMC. Jesus on the altar has a neon halo, though the best reason to come here is for the view from the belfry (a steep climb). The church is between ÐL Tran Hung Dao and Ð Nguyen Trai. Sunday Mass is also held here.
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Cholon Mosque
The clean lines and lack of ornamentation of the Cholon Mosque contrast starkly with nearby Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhist pagodas. In the courtyard is a pool for ritual ablutions. Note the tiled niche in the wall (mihrab) indicating the direction of prayer, which is towards Mecca. The mosque was built by Tamil Muslims in 1932. Since 1975 it has served the Malaysian and Indonesian Muslim communities.
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Cong Vien Van Hoa Park
Next to the old Cercle Sportif, which was an elite sporting club during the French-colonial period, the bench-lined walks of Cong Vien Van Hoa Park are shaded with avenues of enormous tropical trees.
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Dam Sen Park
Dam Sen Park is the place for slightly bizarre fun, where you'll find giant animals made of coconut shells and CDs. Within its landscaped gardens are lakes and pagodas, an ice-block wonderland and a roller coaster. Couples nap on lawns while those in formal wedding regalia have portraits taken.
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Fine Arts Museum
The decaying grandeur of this French colonial building houses an eclectic display of art. Spread over three floors, the collection features work from the classical periods alongside abstract and modern Vietnamese pieces. The garden cafe is a preferred spot for elderly gentlemen to exchange stamp collections and sip iced tea.
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Giac Lam Pagoda
Believed to be the oldest pagoda in greater HCMC, Giac Lam Pagoda dates from 1744. It's a fantastically atmospheric place full of gilded statues (over 100 in all), colourful wall panels (depicting among other things the path to enlightenment as well as the tortures awaiting those condemned to hell) with one of the country's most impressive stupas (which is 32m tall).
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Giac Vien Pagoda
Architecturally similar to Giac Lam, the striking Giac Vien Pagoda shares with it an atmosphere of scholarly serenity, though Giac Vien is less visited and in a more rural setting near Dam Sen Lake in District 11. The pagoda was founded by Hai Tinh Giac Vien in the late 1700s. It is said that Emperor Gia Long, who died in 1819, used to worship at Giac Vien. Today 10 monks live here.
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Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda
The typical Fujian Ha Chuong Hoi Quan Pagoda is dedicated to Thien Hau, who was born in Fujian. The four carved stone pillars, wrapped in painted dragons, were made in China and brought to Vietnam by boat. There are interesting murals to each side of the main altar and impressive ceramic relief scenes on the roof.
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Hall of the Ten Hells
On the left-hand side of the Jade Emperor's chamber in the Jade Emperor Pagoda is another room. It contains the famous Hall of the Ten Hells, carved wooden panels illustrating the varied torments awaiting evil people in each of the Ten Regions of Hell.
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History Museum
The stunning Sino-French-style building that houses the museum is alone worth the visit. The many valuable relics taken from Cambodia's mystical Angkor Wat deserve some pensive minutes. The museum has a fine collection of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam dating back to the Bronze Age, and a good museum gift shop
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Ho Chi Minh Museum
The Ho Chi Minh Museum is in the old customs house in District 4, just across Ben Nghe Channel from the quayside end of ÐL Ham Nghi. Nicknamed the 'Dragon House' (Nha Rong), it was built in 1863. The tie between Ho Chi Minh and the museum building is tenuous: 21-year-old Ho, having signed on as a stoker and galley boy on a French freighter, left Vietnam from here in 1911 and thus began 30 years of exile in France, the Soviet Union, China and elsewhere.
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Jade Emperor Pagoda
Built in 1909 by the Cantonese (Quang Dong) Congregation, the Jade Emperor Pagoda is truly a gem among Chinese temples. It is one of the most spectacularly colourful pagodas in HCMC, filled with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of burning joss sticks fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings decorated with gilded Chinese characters.
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Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda
Built between 1939 and 1942 by the Cantonese Congregation, Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda is said to be the only Taoist pagoda in Vietnam and is unique for its colourful statues of Taoist disciples. The number of true Taoists in HCMC is estimated at no more than 5000, though most Chinese practice a mixture of Taoism and Buddhism.
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Le Van Duyet Temple
Dedicated to Marshal Le Van Duyet (1763-1831), the Le Van Duyet Temple is also his burial place as well as that of his wife's. The marshal was a South Vietnamese general and viceroy who helped put down the Tay Son Rebellion and reunify Vietnam. When the Nguyen dynasty came to power in 1802, he was elevated by Emperor Gia Long to the rank of marshal. Le Van Duyet fell into disfavour with Gia Long's successor, Minh Mang, who tried him posthumously and desecrated his grave.
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Mariamman Hindu temple
This is the only Mariamman Hindu temple still in use in HCMC and is a little piece of southern India in the centre of town. Though there are only 50 to 60 Hindus in HCMC - all of them Tamils - this temple is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese. Indeed, it is reputed to have miraculous powers. The temple was built at the end of the 19th century and dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mariamman.
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Military Museum
Just across Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem is a small Military Museum devoted to Ho Chi Minh's campaign to liberate the south. Inside is of minor interest, but some US, Chinese and Soviet war material is on display outdoors, including a Cessna A-37 of the South Vietnamese Air Force and a US-built F-5E Tiger with the 20mm nose gun still loaded. The tank on display is one of the tanks that broke into the grounds of Reunification Palace on 30 April 1975.
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Municipal Theatre
A grand colonial building with a sweeping staircase, the Municipal Theatre is hard to miss at the intersection of Ð Dong Khoi and ÐL Le Loi. Call for information on performances held here.
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Museum of Ho Chi Minh City
Housed in a grey, neoclassical structure built in 1886 and once known as Gia Long Palace (later, the Revolutionary Museum), the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City is a singularly beautiful and amazing building.
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Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda
Built by the Chaozhou Chinese Congregation, Nghia An Hoi Quan Pagoda is noteworthy for its gilded woodwork. A large carved wooden boat hangs over the entrance, and, inside to the left of the doorway is an enormous representation of Quan Cong's red horse with its groom. The great general Quan Cong himself occupies a position in a glass case behind the main altar, with his assistants flanking him on both sides.
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Notre Dame Cathedral
Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral is set in the heart of HCMC's government quarter. The cathedral faces Ð Dong Khoi. It is neo-Romanesque with two 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, which dominate the city's skyline. In front of the cathedral (in the centre of the square bounded by the main post office) is a statue of the Virgin Mary. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side of the building that faces Reunification Palace.
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Ong Bon Pagoda
Built by the Fujian Congregation, Ong Bon Pagoda is yet another atmospheric pagoda full of gilded carvings and the ever-present smoke of burning incense. It's dedicated to Ong Bon, the guardian who presides over happiness and wealth. In hope of securing good fortune from the deity, believers burn fake paper money in the pagoda's furnace, located across the courtyard from the pagoda entrance.
