Things to do in Pokhara
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Sadhana Yoga
This friendly and secluded retreat is hidden away in the village of Sedi Bagar, overlooking Phewa Tal, 2.5km northwest of Lakeside. One- to 21-day courses in Hatha yoga for Rs 1800 per day, including tuition, steam and mud baths, accommodation and meals. Enquire about yoga treks.
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Am/Pm Organic Café
This shack run by a Nepali trained as a barista in London has organic Himalayan coffee from Palpa and tasty pastries from its German Bakery. There’s a second branch in Lakeside.
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Phewa Tal
Spreading majestically westwards from Pokhara, Phewa Tal is the second-largest lake in Nepal. On calm days, the mountains of the Annapurna Range are perfectly reflected in the mirrored surface of the tal. Away from the shore, the water is clean and deep and the dense forest along the south side of the lake provides shelter for brilliant white egrets. The best way to appreciate Phewa Tal is by rowboat.
Many people walk or cycle around the lakeshore - the trek up to the World Peace Pagoda affords breathtaking views over the tal and the mountains beyond.
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Sunrise Paragliding
Paragliding from the top of Sarangkot must be one of the most exciting experiences in the Himalaya. Sunrise Paragliding offers 30-minute flights exploring the thermals above Sarangkot (US$75) and one-hour cross-country jumps across the valley north towards Annapurna (US$120).
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Nepali Yoga Center
Daily hatha yoga classes (1½ hours, Rs 400) at 7.30am and 4.30pm, plus one-/three-day courses (Rs 1000/3000).
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Caffe Concerto
Potted marigolds and jazz on the stereo add to the bistro atmosphere at this cosy Italian place. The thin-crust pizzas are the best in town, wine is available by the glass and the gelato is delicious. Wi-fi is available.
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Devi's Falls
Devi's Falls marks the point where the Pardi Khola stream vanishes underground. When the stream is at full bore, the sound of the water plunging over the falls is deafening, but the concrete walkways don't add much to the atmosphere. According to locals, the name is a corruption of David's Falls, a reference to a Swiss visitor who tumbled into the sinkhole and drowned, taking his girlfriend with him!
The falls are about 2km southwest of the airport on the road to Butwal, just before the Tashi Ling Tibetan Village.
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World Peace Pagoda
Balanced on a narrow ridge high above Phewa Tal, the brilliant-white World Peace Pagoda was constructed by Buddhist monks from the Japanese Nipponzan Myohoji organisation. There are three paths up to the pagoda and several small cafes once you arrive. Sadly, there have been muggings on the trails in the past. Check the latest situation before you head off.
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Once Upon a Time
A laid-back tourist restaurant, this place has a good combo of suave European cafe vibe up front, and traditional Nepali out back. The food features a ‘patient menu’ for those struck down by Delhi belly and special dietary requirements.
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Blue Sky Paragliding
Paragliding from the top of Sarangkot must be one of the most exciting experiences in the Himalaya. Blue Sky Paragliding is one of the big operators.
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Sweet Memories Restaurant
An exceptionally friendly family-run restaurant serving all the usual fare, with standouts including sizzlers and eggplant lasagne.
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Lake Breeze Gym
Fitness freaks wanting more exercise than walking up and down mountains can head to Lake Breeze Gym near the lake.
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Kalpana Cinema Hall
The Kalpana Cinema Hall screens Nepali films and Bollywood imports, plus the occasional Western blockbuster.
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Sarangkot
The view of the Annapurna Himalaya from Sarangkot is almost a religious experience. From here, you can see a panoramic sweep of Himalayan peaks, from Dhaulagiri (8167m) in the west to the perfect pyramid of Machhapuchhare (6997m) and the rounded peak of Annapurna II (7937m) in the east. At dawn and dusk, the sun picks out the peaks in brilliant colours.
The main village is just below the ridge, but a set of concrete steps leads uphill to a dramatic viewpoint in the ruins of an ancient kot (hill-fort).
The fort is currently occupied by the Nepali army, but photography is fine, as long as you don't take pictures of the soldiers.
There's another ruined fort at Kaskikot (1788…
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Seti River
The roaring Seti River passes right through Pokhara, but you won't see it unless you go looking. The river has carved a deep, narrow gorge through the middle of town, turning the water milky white in the process. At points, the gorge is less than a metre across and the river gushes by more than 50m below street level. The best place to catch a glimpse of the Seti River is the park near the KI Singh Bridge, just north of old Pokhara on the road to Batulechaur.
If you peer down through the darkness, you can just see the water churning through the gorge. Nearby is a small Buddhist gompa with friendly novice monks.
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Tashi Palkhel
The largest Tibetan settlement is Tashi Palkhel, a few kilometres north of Pokhara on the road to Baglung. The colourful Jangchub Choeling Gompa in the middle of the village is home to around 100 monks and masked dances are held here in January/February as part of the annual Losar (Tibetan New Year) celebrations. To reach the gompa you have to run the gauntlet past an arcade of persistent handicraft vendors.
Nearby is a chörten piled with carved mani stones bearing Buddhist mantras and a carpet weaving centre, where you can see all stages of the process and buy the finished article.
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Hearts and Tears
Ever felt envious at the sight of some dude zipping along winding roads on the back of a motorbike, but always lacked the nerve to give it a go yourself? Then Hearts and Tears is the place to overcome your inhibitions. Tucked away in the entrance to Busy Bee (you can’t miss the cool retro bikes), you can choose from customised Royal Enfields in a range of classic designs, and with an emphasis on safety, it’s a great place to learn to ride (lessons from Rs 3500). It also offers motorcycle tours around Nepal, and rents bikes from Rs 600 per day.
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Doongas
If the commercialism of Lakeside gets too much, just head out onto the calm waters of Phewa Tal. Colourful wooden Doongas are available for rent at several boat stations, including near the city bus stand and next to the Fewa Hotel. Rates start at Rs200 per hour with a boatman, or Rs140/Rs500 per hour/day if you row yourself. You can also rent plastic pedalos (Rs250 per hour) and miniature sailboats (Rs200 per hour). If you are boating alone near Damside, keep well away from the dam wall.
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Kahun Danda
A good hike is the three-hour trip to the viewpoint at Kahun Danda (Seti River) on the east side of the Seti River. There's a modern viewing tower on the crest of the hill, built over the ruins of an 18th century kot (hill-fort). The easiest trail to follow begins near the Manipal Teaching Hospital in Phulbari - ask for directions at the base of the hill. You can also get up here by pony. One of the most popular walks around Pokhara is the trip to the World Peace Pagoda.
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Himalaya
Most people come to Nepal for the Himalaya and Pokhara is one of the best places to get an up close view of the peaks. From west to east, the peaks are Hiunchuli (6441m), Annapurna I (8091m), Machhapuchhare (6997m), Annapurna III (7555m), Annapurna IV (7525m) and Annapurna II (7937m). The dramatic Annapurna Massif looms over the city and the lake. There are few places in town where you can't see one or other of the snow-capped peaks jutting up into the clear blue sky.
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Gurkha Museum
Situated just north of Mahendra Pul, near the KI Singh Bridge, this well-curated museum displays the achievements of the famous Gurkha regiment. Accompanied by sound effects of machine-gun fire, it covers Gurkha history from the 19th-century Indian Mutiny, through two World Wars to current-day Afghanistan. There is a fascinating display outlining the stories of the 13 Gurkhas who’ve been awarded the Victoria Cross medal.
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International Mountain Museum
The newest cultural offering in Pokhara, the International Mountain Museum is devoted to the mountains of Nepal and the mountaineers who climbed them. Inside you can see original gear from many of the first Himalayan ascents, as well as displays on the history, culture, geology and flora and fauna of the Himalaya. The museum is south of the airstrip near the Himalaya Eye Hospital - a taxi from Lakeside will cost around NPR400 return.
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Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave
Gupteshwor Mahadev Cave contains a huge stalagmite worshiped as a Shiva lingam. The standard ticket only covers the temple, but you can pay extra to clamber through a low tunnel behind the shrine, emerging in a damp cavern behind the thundering waters of Devi's Falls. If you look at the ceiling of the cave, you can see branches and other detritus, forced into cracks by the force of the waters when the cave floods every monsoon.
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Tamu Kohibo Museum
This small but intriguing Tamu Kohibo Museum is dedicated to the culture and customs of the Gurung (Tamu) people, the indigenous inhabitants of the Pokhara Valley, who follow a mix of animist, Shamanistic and Bonist beliefs, brought here from Tibet in the days before Buddhism. To get here, cross the river via the small bridge just south of Mahendra Pul and head for the cluster of white towers on the side of the gorge.
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[nat-ssul]
This grassy outdoor restaurant opposite the lake serves up lip-smacking Korean barbecue. The sliced roast pork and grilled yak cheese makes for a good choice, while vegetarians can feast on bibimbap (bowl of rice coated in sesame oil with mixed vegetables and fried egg) served with an astounding assortment of dishes. Run by friendly owners, Mr October and Mrs April, there’s also an inviting fire pit.
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