Kyrgyzstan
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
There is no problem getting a visa at Manas airport. Prices are US$36 for a 30 day entry and US$55 for over 30 days. This is 100 percent true for US, German and Israeli citizens but probably true for all.
Daphna & Ranen, Israel (Oct 03)
Unexpected 'fees': If you are suddenly asked for an unexpected 'entrance fee' or 'tax' (eg. at border crossings, nature parks, etc.), there's a quick way to see if it's a legal one or merely a bribe: ask for a receipt. Normally, an official receipt (which is 'kvi-TAN-tsia' in Russian) should be printed and stamped by the concerned authority, not merely hand-written on a grotty piece of paper. Of course, if they're reluctant to give you one it's more likely that they're just out for backsheesh.
Taxi scams: It has already happened, especially with more sleazy taxi types around the large hotels, airports and railway stations, that the driver only releases you bags from the trunk after you pay up to double the agreed price. The best way to avoid this, is not to put your luggage in the trunk. If there is no other option and it happens, one possible way to deal with it is to conspicuously write down his license plate number and the number of his technical passport (which mostly appears on the front window) and threaten to call the police ('militsia' or 'politsia'). That usually works.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Sep 03)
Bus Bishkek - Tashkent: unfortunately I cannot confirm the information, that one can travel from Bishkek to Tashkent by bus through a part of Kazakhstan without having a Kazakh visa. We had big troubles at the Kazakh border and had to pay a "fee" of US$50 per person to enter Kazakhstan without a transit visa.
Lars Olberg (Jul 03)
It seems impossible to travel from Osh to Jala-bad via the Uzbek border now. We arrived at the crossing point (a very empty but firmly closed border post) and were told that we must go via Ozgon. I doubt buses would use this route anymore. They are upgrading the road to Jala-bad but sections of it are still rough and potholed.
Tanya Paterson, UK (Feb 03)
If you are in China, the ONLY place where you can apply for this visa is Beijing, at the Kyrgyzstan Embassy. They are open only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, from 9 am to 12 pm. The procedure is quite straight if you agree on the visa rate: US$100 for instant visa. In this case, it seems that no invitation letter is needed (even if we had it when we applied for visa, two months ago). If you cannot afford for the high price, it takes at least one week for getting the visa, invitation letter is mandatory and you have to stay one week without your passport in Beijing... Not a good place to stay this way. Don't rely on news about any possibility for applying for Kyrgyzstan visa in Urumchi or elsewhere. They are not true.
Carlo & Emanuela Paschetto, Italy (Sep 02)
Fergana: Without a Kyrgyz visa it is next to impossible to go from Fergana to Skakhimardan. Taxi drivers may tell you other stories, even the Uzbek Border Police tells you that there is no problem, but the Kyrgyz police will make an endless hassle around it. So you con easly find you trapped in the middle (car gone, passport with Kyrgyz police and so on).
Dr. Herbert Müller Philipps Sohn, Germany (Aug 02)
Upon arrival in Bishkek, we were told that since April 02, Swiss to not have to register in Kyrgyzstan anymore. The same seems also to be true for travellers from other western countries.
Andreas Voegelin, Switzerland (Jul 02)
Crossing to Kyrgystan at Namangan. Take a bus to Namangan from any city in the Fairgana valley. From the Namangan bus station transfer to where there are marshrutnoe taxis to Uchkurgan. Change at the Uchkurgan Bazar to a marshrut to the border. No problems at the border. Walk 1km to the Kyrgyz border. From where there is a bus to Toktogul every day at about 11am (10am Uzbek time in Summer) or a bus to Karakul at 12 noon
Kenneth Brooker (Jul 02)
Several travellers received 1 month extensions on Kyrgyz visas within a few hours at the main OVIR office for 250 som. OVIR registration is not necessary anymore for travellers of most western countries. I got my visas for Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Russia without major problems. This is how i succeeded: the Uzbek embassy only receives people that are on their list. You have to call the day before after 2pm and ask them to put your name down (66 30 78). Even if they tell a precise time, go a bit earlier, as they normally tell the same time to everybody. You definitely need an invitation and if the travel agency has done its work correctly your visa will be ready by the afternoon. It cost me (Swiss citizen) US$60 (US$ accepted only).
The Kazakh embassy is open in the mornings from 9.30am to 11.30 am. It's best to go on a friday when there are much less people. Go an hour or so early and write down your name on the list. The list is normally with the guard at the entrance. You need an invitation and the visa is ready within about 10 days, on the next day if you pay double. Visa cost depends on the duration of the visa and the urgency. If you have time to wait, tell them. You do not have to leave the passport, just bring it in at the appointed day in the morning and pick it up with the visa in the afternoon. For a 14 day visa i paid 35 usd (som equivalent or usd accepted). Transit visas are reportedly available within one day without invitation for 20usd.
An Ovir official in Fergana warned me that Shakhimardan is off limits to foreigners - Kyrgyzstan has introduced border controls for the transit on its territory - probably a retaliatory measure for Uzbek hassle for Kyrgyz citizens elsewhere. If you have multiple entry visas for both Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan you could try however.
Patrick Zoll, Switzerland (Jul 02)
Important warning: There are new regulations about travellers cheques. It is very important for you to write them, and the exact amount in your customs declaration!! Because nowadays you have to show this at the bank when you want to cash your cheques. In the Ferghana Valley this was not yet known at the banks, because I could take my money, but in Samarkand there trouble began, because banks will really not cash my cheques. I heard many tourists came into trouble because of this.
Johanna Louise Houtekamer, Netherlands (Jul 02)
I got information from the Kyrgyz embassy in Vienna, Austria that Slovenian citizens do NOT need a visa to enter Kyrgyzstan.
Rok Jarc, Slovenia (Jun 02)
The Ukrainian embassy in Bishkek has moved. It is now at ul. Panfilova 150, close to the Swiss consulate.
The OVIR registration was abolished for the citizens of 20 European countries and the US (including Belgium and Switzerland) by ukaz (decree) No 99 of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs from March 7, 2002.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (May 02)
Theoretically, you still need a Border Zone Permit ('Propusk pa Granzona' in Russian) when you go within 50 km from the Kyrgyz border with China or Tajikistan. The rule seems to be relaxed for places such as the Torugart Pass but the permit, which can be arranged in about 10 days' time by a trekking agency in Bishkek, could prove useful for passage in other border areas. Although we could not get official confirmation of this, a Soviet-era vigilante system whereby every adult civilian has the right to check your documents still seems to operate in the border areas. Should you be approached in this regard — as happened to us in Kara-Kulja east of Uzgen — ask to see the 'ayilbash' (village chief) and show your Border Zone Permit to him.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Apr 02)
To get a visa while in Tashkent is fairly easy. You simply go to the Kyrgyz embassy before noon, wait in line and fill out the paperwork. It is $30 if you are willing to wait a week for processing and $60 if you want it right then. You will need a passport size photo to get your visa. Contrary to what I keep reading in LP anyone flying into Kyrgyzstan still needs a visa, even Americans and Japanese. Who knows, this could change any day.
Josie Hanneman, USA (Jan 02)
It is not allowed for Kyrgyz taxis to cross the border into Uzbekistan, to Andijan. All cars are stopped at the border and the second stage should be done with an Uzbek car or bus. We paid 40 som for the taxi to the border (from the center of Osh). Crossing the border here was fairly easy (the Kyrgyz customs never checked our passport here so no exit stamp for us and no talking about the OVIR-registration stamp). The Uzbek customs were really friendly, eager to help to translate the forms in Russian, no difficult questions, luggage not x-raid or even opened. There is a bus from the border to Andijan but it is not going very regularly. We waited some time, had a lunch and decided to get a taxi to Andijan. This costs 1000 sum (US$ 1.25). The driver dropped us at the bus terminal from where we could get a bus to Fergana for little money.
Lucia Kadijk and Bram Hulzebos, The Netherlands (Nov 01)
Travel Tips
In August 2002, Kyrgyzstan opened a representative office in Xinjiang. It's in the town of Artush (written as Artux on some maps) about 45 km north of Kashgar. Artush is also the administrative center of a district where about 250,000 ethnic Kyrgyz live. The office is to issue visas - although we could get no confirmation if this applies non-Chinese citizens as well - and assist freight transport between Xinjiang and Kyrgyzstan. It's is worth keeping an eye on this, since it can possibly turn into a fully-fledged consulate and/or be a source of information for those looking to hitch a ride to the Irkeshtam pass.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Oct 02)
It is highly advisable to change all Kyrgyz money in Osh before going into Uzbekistan. It appears to be impossible to do so in Uzbekistan. Money changing is a far more controlled business in Uz than Kyrgyzstan.
Mark Thomas, Australia (Aug 02)
Most places shut for lunch 12-2pm including the police, banks and embassies - which can really foul up your day.
Shiriin Barakzai, UK (Aug 02)
On the way back to Bishkek from Altyn Arashan, I stayed a few days in Ak Terek in a private house. The village is on the lakeside of Issyk-Kul and no tourists normally stay there. It is therefore very nice to experience unspoiled village life. Make sure however that people do not ruin themselves out of hospitality - they slaughtered a sheep for me and organised a big feast. Do not forget to bring presents and pay for the vodka if you get into drinking. In late July and August the apricot trees will bear fruits. This is certainly a nice time to visit, but people will be most busy at that time.
Patrick Zoll, Switzerland (Jun 02)
The trip from Jalal-Abad to Kazarman is still not easy to organize though certainly a good and adventurous option to travel from Southern Kyrgyzstan to Naryn, Song Köl and the Torugart Pass. The road was built in 1903 by Russian military as a connection between the garrison town of Jalal-Abad and the remote military outpost of Naryn. Today, a yellow 'tekhpomosh' truck-turned-bus does the 150 km trip to Kazarman once a day from Jalal-Abad's northern bus station ('severnii avtovokzal', take van ? 6), at least in principle. Otherwise, Russian 4 WD can be negotiated around the Jala-Abad bazaar. The Helvetas homestay program in Jalal-Abad (e-mail tour_ja@elcat2.bishkek.su) can also arrange a vehicle and has a homestay family in Kazarman.
In Osh, shared taxis to Jalal-Abad over Uzgen (avoiding Uzbekistan) now wait for passengers at the far end of ul. Kyrgyzstan. The place is called called HBK (or ask for 'tekstilzavod'). To get there, take marshrutka ? 8, 18, 34, 50 or Osh-Kara Suu.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Apr 02)
Moving About
Osh-Batken, Northern Tajikistan: In Osh, two buses a day (one around 7 am and the other 11 am; 6 hours) leave for Batken from the Hotel Alay while shared taxis wait for passengers early in the morning (at around 7 am) at the Univermag behind the same hotel. Some continue to Lejlek and Isfana. A place in a shared taxi to Batken costs 250 som/5 euro (1,250 som/25 euro for the whole car) if it goes the shortest way (4 hours) via the Uzbek Sokh enclave. If you don't have an Uzbek visa or if Uzbekistan has closed its borders again for whatever reason, you can ask to avoid the enclave via a partly unpaved and dusty detour which commercial lorries use (ask 'tsherez obyezd' or 'tsherez Ak Turpak'). This takes 6 hours and will cost you 400 som/8 euro per seat (or 2,000 som/40 euro if you charter the whole vehicle).
In Batken, transport for the surrounding villages, Osh and Isfana leaves from the bus station ('avtobeket') close to the bazaar in the morning. Shared taxis for Isfana and destinations right over the border in Tajikistan wait for passengers next to the post office in the morning.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Oct 03)
BISHKEK_OSH: Osh bazaar is the place where shared taxis leave. There is no bus at the moment, because of the bad condition of the road, which is under construction for almost the entire length, also in the Ferghana Valley a new road is being made. 4th May the Too Ashuu pass was still closed for an hour because of heavy snowfall. Be prepared to get altitude sickness because of crossing this very high pass!
Johanna Louise Houtekamer, Netherlands (Jul 02)
There is now a road toll on the Osh to Bishkek road at Kara-Kol
Cars - $5.00USA
Vehicles up to 3 tonnes - $10.00USA
Vehicles up to 5 tonnes - $20.00USA
Vehicles up to 10 tonnes - $40.00USA
Vehicles over 10 tonnes - $60.00USA
The charge for local vehicles (payable in Som) was about 1% of the above!
Stephen Stewart, UK (Jun 02)
Bishkek-Osh
A private airline called Altynair has recently started a twice daily Bishkek-Osh flight. Their booking office in Bishkek is Abdumomunov kochosu, 195. Phone: (0312) 22.54.46; 22.56.59 E-mail: altynair@elcat.kg Price one-way as of mid-May is US$35.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (May 02)
Scams & Warnings
Almaty and Bishkek airports - There is an occasional scam whereby customs officers won't let you pass if they see that you have computer disks or videotapes with you. Typically, they'll pretend that the materials could contain 'propaganda footage' and 'state secrets' and have to be cleared by the KGB first. It happened to me and to a Turkish acquaintance who was forced to leave his Turkish folk music CDs behind! All nonsense of course. Just an attempt to squeeze money out of you when you are about to catch your flight. Should it happen, ask to see the law or instruction in writing.
Matthieu Kravos, Canada (Jul 03)
After a 10 days long very pleasant stay around lake Issyk-Kul I came back to Bishkek by bus on the 16 July. At the bus station I was approached by a plainclothes policeman asking to see my papers. I showed him my passport and ticket and he asked me to come to an office in a building nearby. I refused, saying I was not going with an ununiformed policeman. He then sent for a policeman in uniform and I went with them. They said that they were looking for drugs, but they were not really interested. They were more interested in my money and looked carefully at some of my dollars to see if they were not fake money. Then they let me go, but afterwards I found out that they had stolen a $100 note from me. I learned that these thugs operate at the bus and railway station and also in the airport of Bishkek. Therefore get off the bus before the bus station and if they get you, hold on very thightly to your money if you are in contact with the police. They were the only dishonest people I met in Kyrgyzstan.
Ola Naess, Norway (Jul 02)
Following the IMU guerilla incursions in 1999 and 2000, parts of sensitive border areas such as the Turkestan mountains, and the Sokh and Shah-i-Mardan enclaves have been mined by the army and the Border Guards. Sadly enough, this compromises trekking and hiking possibilities in otherwise very beautiful areas.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Jan 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Lejlek is the farthest southern district of Kyrgyzstan and has about 100,000 inhabitants. Meaning 'stork' in the local Kyrgyz dialect, Lejlek ('LAY-lek') is a little jewel. Its canyons, badlands and the Turkestan mountains with the 5,355 m high Ak Suu peak make it good hiker's country. Lejlek's administrative center of Isfana (population 17,000, not to be confused with nearby Isfara in Tajikistan) is a not unpleasant leafy town with a small but interesting bazaar. Lejlek is known for its red- and-black kylym (woven carpets), which are sold at the bazaar. A typical price for a medium-sized carpet (eg. 1.5 by 2.5 meters) is about US$ 25 in Som.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (May '03)
One of the better bazaars I saw was the Sunday bazaar at Tokmak east of Bishkek. Its food and vegetable sections are run by local Dungans and very colorful.
Matthieu Kravos, Canada (Nov 02)
In the Alay Valley in the Kyrgyz Pamir lays another of Central Asia geopolitical curiosities: an 'invisible' Tajik enclave of some 37,000 hectares. The land, which is situated not far from Pik Lenina, was given in 1946 on indefinite lease to the inhabitants of the barren district of Murgab, right over the border in Tajikistan. The reason was that Murgab itself had not enough arable land to support proper agriculture and cattle raising. Still some 3,700 people from Murgab (the majority of them ethnic Kyrgyz) depend on the land for their cattle, and potato and vegetable growing during the short farming season. Every now and them, the district authorities of Alay and Murgab engage into political-juridical bickering on residence rights and payments of rent, though that won't prevent the people from doing their thing. Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Jul 02)
The walk from Ak Suu to Altyn Arashan takes about 4 to 5 hours from the turnoff of the road to the sanatoriom. It is very nice and well worth the effort, probably much nicer than being thrown around in a bouncing jeep. There are several places to stay on altyn arashan. Bring your own food if you stay longer than a couple of nights.
Patrick Zoll, Switzerland (Jun 02)
The most unspoilt and interesting part of lake Issyk Köl is definitely the southern shore. The stretch around the villages of Ottuk and Kara-Talaa is part of the Issyk Köl Nature Park ('Issyk Köl Mamleketik Korugu' in Kyrgyz). The award-winning Kyrgyz film 'Besh Kempir' was shot in this area. The combination of badlands, marshes, lush villages, the nearby Terskei Alatau mountains and, of course, the lake itself make this a nice place to visit. The Issyk Köl Nature Park is also interesting for birdwatchers.
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (May 02)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
In the markets of Almaty and Bishkek, you have a big chance of bumping into colourfully dressed and quite South Asian-looking women and children who are begging or working as fortune-tellers. In case you wonder, most are not Afghan refugees (as some believe) but Central Asian gypsies. Called 'luli' (loo-LEE) or 'chuki' (choo-KEY), they originally come from the surroundings of Samarkand, the Vaksh valley in southern Tajikistan, and Turkmenistan. They number 20,000 to 30,000 in the region and mostly speak Tajik (Persian).
Bruno De Cordier, Belgium (Oct 03)
^ back to top
|
